Am I supposed to notice a difference?

Canon EF 24-105mm f/4.0L IS

10/18/2007 05:46:27 PM · #1

I purchased a spyder2express monitor calibrator for my new iMAC. After claibrating, i expectd to see a big difference in my monitor... but i really can't tell the differece...is that normal, or am i supposed to notice a significant difference?

zeuszen

Canon EOS-1Ds Mark II

10/18/2007 05:50:44 PM · #2

Originally posted by brimac:

I've had the same experience with several machines, and, yes, it appears that Macs are calibrated quite nicely when new. I'd keep on doing it though at regular intervals, if only for peace of mind.

Nikon AF-S NIKKOR 24-70mm f/2.8G ED

10/18/2007 06:00:43 PM · #3

will this effect the quality of my prints.."what i see on the screen i will see in print"? I notice that prints are a bit darker then what i see on the screen.

Citadel

Nikon D7500

10/18/2007 06:07:07 PM · #4

I think you can do a preview with the color profile of your printer. I don't recall the exact steps for this but I know its possible in Photoshop. (Preview with color profile I think is the command but I'm not sure). With a calibrated monitor it should look almost identical to the print copy.

Bear_Music

Samsung Galaxy S24 Ultra

Sony 24-70mm F4 Vario-Tessar T* FE OSS

10/18/2007 06:08:17 PM · #5

Originally posted by brimac:

will this effect the quality of my prints.."what i see on the screen i will see in print"? I notice that prints are a bit darker then what i see on the screen.

If nothing much changed after using the spyder, then calibration was good to begin with.

But I'm curious about this print darkness thing: was it darker than monitor BEFORE the spyder or is that new? Cuz if it is new, then SOMETHING must have changed in monitor brightness...

Anyway, if you are using a good printer it will have a printer profile that needs to be loaded. If by chance your machine is printing off a generic driver/profile, then it will not be what it is supposed to be a lot of the time. So you need to check that.

If you have the right drivers etc and consistently get too-dark prints viz a viz monitor appearance, then you can make custom settings in a lot of printer dialogue boxes and save them, and use them for each time you print. Some folks, for instance, save different settings for predominately dark images, predominately light images, and for B/W and Sepia as well. They are custom instructions to the printer.

R.

10/18/2007 06:22:10 PM · #6

Hi Bear...

1. Thanks for agreeing to tutor me, Im about to email you with my info.
2. I am using a canon i950...i've had it for 4 years???? I actually was having my prints turn out darker before i calibrated the monitor.. thats why i bought the calibrator. My new imac is 2 weeks old. I installed the set up & user software which was fast and easy, and i wasn't required to do anything else. I do ahve a few menus when i print...

The first is PROFILE: which lists working rgb, working cmyk, working grey. lab color, adobe 1998, apple rgb ( which is what it is set to), colormatch rgb, srgb, and many others.

2. Is INTENT: which lists Perceptual, Saturation, Reletive Colorimetric ( which is what it is set to) , and Absolute Colorimetric

Maybe im supposed to change these???

Other then that under MEDIA QUALITY, i set to the paper Im using, and to HIGH QUALITY PRINT....

Any thoughts???????

10/18/2007 06:24:25 PM · #7

one more thing... I didnt have to download any drivers or anything like that... just installed the set up software.

Sony 24-70mm F4 Vario-Tessar T* FE OSS

10/18/2007 06:54:19 PM · #8

can ya hear me now???

Bear_Music

Samsung Galaxy S24 Ultra

10/18/2007 07:02:27 PM · #9

I'm not an expert on this. But I'd assume when you installed the setup software it loaded whatever drivers and such it needed. I'm also not an expert on apple at all. So I don't know about apple rgb as a printer space. I use adobe rgb when I print, and it's better than srgb, which I use for the screen shots in DPC.

But really, I'm weak on all this. You really need someone who's really up-to-date with monitors and printers.

R.

soup

Canon EOS-30D

Canon EF 17-40mm f/4.0L USM

10/18/2007 07:03:34 PM · #10

if the calibration is correctly finished, then your editing software is showing the image based on the spyder ii's profile ( or the current working color profile ). setting the printer to print with apple rgb is bypassing the calibrated view or the current view, and using the apple generic version.

you might be able to proof the image in the apple rgb space if your editing software allows that.

in photoshop it's
view>proof setup>custom ( chose the apple rgb profile from the 'device to simulate' drop down ) - select the profile you want to proof - click OK. then
view>proof colors. it will just make a check next to it.

if the printer is working right, and the spdyer II profile is loading - you should see a darker image than before.

if you can see your printers profile - you can use that too.

EDIT: hard to relay in laymans terms i guess... although i sort of am a layman...

Message edited by author 2007-10-18 19:11:22.

Canon EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6

10/18/2007 07:25:51 PM · #11

I use phtoshop CS to PP, so should I use that setting for printing? (adobe RGB)

Thanks for all of the help so far... Soup, that makes a lot of sense...i will look into it.

Message edited by author 2007-10-18 19:44:48.

Sunniee

Canon EOS-40D

10/18/2007 07:49:18 PM · #12

Originally posted by brimac:

Its broken.... send it to me :P

fotomann_forever

10/18/2007 07:51:02 PM · #13

Originally posted by brimac:

I use phtoshop CS to PP,

Sounds painful :-)

Sorry, couldn't resist and know little about printer calibration.

Tamron SP AF 17-35mm f/2.8-4 Di LD Aspherical IF for Nikon

10/18/2007 08:03:00 PM · #14

LMAO!!! Foot, that's for making me laugh.....i was about to throw my printer and computer out the window! U should see me over here...... i'm flippin out, can't seem to fix this problem!

Message edited by author 2007-10-18 20:03:27.

Node

Nikon D300

10/18/2007 08:51:39 PM · #15

Try this

When printing have the colour management set to let printer decide/select instead of forcing it to use a profile.

Its been a while but I think that worked for me.