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10/14/2007 10:46:28 AM · #26 |
So, to recap.
If using my 100-400mm, on my 1d m2, with a 580 ex and a quantum battery set to burst....
...to get multiple flashes....
....in order to fill the subject in a sporting event...
...I should have the 580 on E-TTL with the squiggly upside down arrow, at a 1/8 + power, at 105mm zoom using the BETTER BEAMER (that I am going to purchase)....
...have the body on AI Servo, HSS, wide open, center point AF, approximately an ISO around 320 ish or so, with a shutter speed of around 1/250 to 1/1000 (????...will this suffice the stop action I am after??)...
....the lens on 1.8 to infinity, and IS #2 if I choose.
How does this look?
Message edited by author 2007-10-14 11:08:39.
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10/14/2007 11:12:21 AM · #27 |
Originally posted by Man_Called_Horse:
...I should have the 580 on E-TTL with the squiggly upside down arrow, at a 1/8 + power, at 105mm zoom using the BETTER BEAMER (that I am going to purchase).... |
E-TTL and Manual (1/8 power) are two different settings.
E-TTL tells the camera+flash to figure out how much power is needed (flash fires a pre-flash, camera meters it, tells the flash how much is needed, flash fires again when the shutter opens). E-TTL works well in changing conditions (subjects at different distances).
Manual assumes you know what you're doing. If you calculate that 1/8th power is what you need for a subject at a given distance, then that's what it's going to use. But if the subject is moving towards you or away from you, that calculation is going to be off at every distance except the one for which you calculated 1/8th to be the right setting.
So if the subject is at a fixed distance from you, you'll save a lot of battery power (and recycle time) by calculating the exposure once and setting your flash to manual. But if the subject is moving, then chances are you'll need to use E-TTL or risk under or over exposing the subject.
Originally posted by Man_Called_Horse:
...have the body on AI Servo, HSS, wide open, center point AF, approximately an ISO around 320 ish or so, with a shutter speed of around 1/250 to 1/1000 (????...will this suffice the stop action I am after??)... |
Those are hard things to know without being there to judge the amount of light you are getting.
But definitely, if you have ambient light hitting the subject and yet you still need faster shutter speeds than sync speed in order to freeze the action, then you will have to switch to HSS mode.
If, on the other hand, your flash is what is lighting the subject (ambient light is too dim), then stick to sync speed and let the flash do it's thing to freeze the subject.
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10/14/2007 02:08:03 PM · #28 |
Originally posted by dwterry:
Originally posted by Man_Called_Horse:
...I should have the 580 on E-TTL with the squiggly upside down arrow, at a 1/8 + power, at 105mm zoom using the BETTER BEAMER (that I am going to purchase).... |
E-TTL and Manual (1/8 power) are two different settings.
E-TTL tells the camera+flash to figure out how much power is needed (flash fires a pre-flash, camera meters it, tells the flash how much is needed, flash fires again when the shutter opens). E-TTL works well in changing conditions (subjects at different distances).
Manual assumes you know what you're doing. If you calculate that 1/8th power is what you need for a subject at a given distance, then that's what it's going to use. But if the subject is moving towards you or away from you, that calculation is going to be off at every distance except the one for which you calculated 1/8th to be the right setting.
So if the subject is at a fixed distance from you, you'll save a lot of battery power (and recycle time) by calculating the exposure once and setting your flash to manual. But if the subject is moving, then chances are you'll need to use E-TTL or risk under or over exposing the subject.
Originally posted by Man_Called_Horse:
...have the body on AI Servo, HSS, wide open, center point AF, approximately an ISO around 320 ish or so, with a shutter speed of around 1/250 to 1/1000 (????...will this suffice the stop action I am after??)... |
Those are hard things to know without being there to judge the amount of light you are getting.
But definitely, if you have ambient light hitting the subject and yet you still need faster shutter speeds than sync speed in order to freeze the action, then you will have to switch to HSS mode.
If, on the other hand, your flash is what is lighting the subject (ambient light is too dim), then stick to sync speed and let the flash do it's thing to freeze the subject. |
Dave,
You have taken a lot of your time to help me out. Everyone in this thread has, and I want to thank you all for your time.
Dave,
This is beginning to sink in. Without a manual, I am lost. So, please don't think my questions to be trivial. I just want further knowledge.
As you know, sports is always dynamic. To be static in sports is basically a team picture, or head shot.
Since sports is dynamic, and I do want a bit more fill on my shots, then what you are saying is that E-TTL is the "sync" I am after. This setting will talk to my camera as to what it's settings are and adjust on the fly to what my lens is pointed at.
Is this a correct statement?
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10/14/2007 02:12:59 PM · #29 |
Brother Horse,
I got your PM (belatedly) but this is not an area I am accomplished in. Others have advised you excellently, and I have nothing much to add to it, except to answer your last question:
Yes, shooting sports E-TTL is the way to go. Be sure to use flash exposure compensation if you want to mute/or exaggerate the relative values of flash v ambient lighting.
R.
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10/14/2007 02:14:11 PM · #30 |
Originally posted by Man_Called_Horse:
This is beginning to sink in. Without a manual, I am lost. So, please don't think my questions to be trivial. I just want further knowledge.
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You do know the manual is available as a PDF download right on the Canon site right? I think this link will get you there.
MattO |
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10/14/2007 02:15:03 PM · #31 |
Originally posted by Bear_Music:
Brother Horse,
Be sure to use flash exposure compensation if you want to mute/or exaggerate the relative values of flash v ambient lighting.
R. |
Please explain further. Not sure how to do this.
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10/14/2007 02:15:41 PM · #32 |
Originally posted by MattO:
Originally posted by Man_Called_Horse:
This is beginning to sink in. Without a manual, I am lost. So, please don't think my questions to be trivial. I just want further knowledge.
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You do know the manual is available as a PDF download right on the Canon site right? I think this link will get you there.
MattO |
Now you tell me.
Thanks Matt.
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