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09/18/2007 11:39:09 PM · #1 |
Hi all!
So, I start my new job on Thursday night...as a photographer for a modeling agency. Whoohoo! I'm excited! But, VERY nervous! I have been shooting all my headshots outside, and now I have to shoot inside, with my lights.
Here's what I need advice on. I will be in a small room with a white background. I have 2 strobes. I have to take headshots of people (all sizes, shapes and colors) on this white background with only my two lights. And, I have to do it on film. NOt even digital! AND, I don't have a light meter. So, what on earth do I do?
I was thinking, I could bring my digital and meter it from that, then shoot it on film. Or, I could go ahead and invest in a light meter (what kind though?!?)
Where do I place the two lights to get a flattering picture of the model while having a plain white background? Should I get another light before tomorrow?
I'm sort of freaking out at this point. I thought I could do it, but I"m totally doubting myself and worrying about how the pics will come out, especially since it's film and i have to get it right the first time.
HELP!!!
ANY advice is appreciated. :) |
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09/18/2007 11:49:07 PM · #2 |
If you want a WHITE background, you'll HAVE to use a background light. You simply *must* throw more light on the background than hits the subject. So... you can either shoot one light on the subject with a reflector (perfectly doable), or get another light so that you can use your two lights plus a background light. I think I'd invest in a cheap slave and point it at the background.
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09/18/2007 11:52:31 PM · #3 |
For light meters, there are certainly CHEAPER models out there, but the one I use is the Sekonic L-758DR. I picked it due to the built-in pocket wizard trigger which makes it a snap to stand where the subject is or will be and trigger the flash from there (i.e. I can do my own light readings without an assistant).
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09/18/2007 11:54:04 PM · #4 |
Originally posted by dwterry: If you want a WHITE background, you'll HAVE to use a background light. You simply *must* throw more light on the background than hits the subject. So... you can either shoot one light on the subject with a reflector (perfectly doable), or get another light so that you can use your two lights plus a background light. I think I'd invest in a cheap slave and point it at the background. |
Thanks so much for the reply! :) Where would I put the one light and the reflector? And with the second light, I would point right at the background, right?
Or, another light! :) What do you mean my a "slave" ? Is that what makes that strobe flash when the other's are fired? (I'm so totally amateur, obviously!)
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09/18/2007 11:55:18 PM · #5 |
Sure, for your first shoot, you can use your digital camera as a meter. It will also give you a good idea of how the lights look in different setups. Show up early and take a few practice shots.
Ideally, you should light the backdrop with 2 lights and then you can place the main light up and a bit to the side of the camera. If you go with just 2 lights, then you might consider putting the backdrop light on the floor behind the subject pointed at the backdrop around head level. Then the subjects can sit in front of the light and you can shoot them from about waist up. It might not light up the whole backdrop, but it will provide plenty of separation betwen the subject and the backdrop.
You'll do great, Magen. Good luck!
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09/18/2007 11:55:39 PM · #6 |
There are lots of "good" solutions for lighting. Here's an easy one to start with: Main light at a 45 degree angle to the subject (as compared to the camera position) and at the 10:00 or 2:00 position (i.e. above the subject's head). Fill light straight back behind the camera. Set a ratio of 2:1, 3:1 or 4:1 for your lighting. Experiment with 2:1 for females, 4:1 for males and experiment. You'll need your light meter to figure out how much light each strobe is contributing to the exposure, and from that you can figure out the ratios.
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09/18/2007 11:58:40 PM · #7 |
Originally posted by PhilipDyer: Sure, for your first shoot, you can use your digital camera as a meter. It will also give you a good idea of how the lights look in different setups. Show up early and take a few practice shots.
Ideally, you should light the backdrop with 2 lights and then you can place the main light up and a bit to the side of the camera. If you go with just 2 lights, then you might consider putting the backdrop light on the floor behind the subject pointed at the backdrop around head level. Then the subjects can sit in front of the light and you can shoot them from about waist up. It might not light up the whole backdrop, but it will provide plenty of separation betwen the subject and the backdrop.
You'll do great, Magen. Good luck! |
Thank you, Philip! I am definitely planning on showing up about 2 hours early to set up and try some shots. I was hoping that the digital camera could be my "light meter." I'm also going to practice in my "studio" here in my house tomorrow...not exactly the same...but enough to get a general idea of what i'm working with. I will try your suggested set up for sure. Thank you. :)
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09/19/2007 12:01:46 AM · #8 |
Originally posted by dwterry: There are lots of "good" solutions for lighting. Here's an easy one to start with: Main light at a 45 degree angle to the subject (as compared to the camera position) and at the 10:00 or 2:00 position (i.e. above the subject's head). Fill light straight back behind the camera. Set a ratio of 2:1, 3:1 or 4:1 for your lighting. Experiment with 2:1 for females, 4:1 for males and experiment. You'll need your light meter to figure out how much light each strobe is contributing to the exposure, and from that you can figure out the ratios. |
Thank you!! I will definitely work with the 10 and 2 positions. With the ratio's, do you mean setting one light on full power, and maybe one at 1/4 power? (I think that's how I'm understanding?) |
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09/19/2007 12:07:37 AM · #9 |
This would work as a really cheap slave .. It's so cheap you can probably easily afford to buy two and point them both at the background as Philip suggested.
As a "slave", it simply has a sensor on it which will cause it to fire at the same time that your other lights fire. No need to wire anything up. Just put it in an ordinary light socket and point it at the background.
There are, of course, better solutions... I like this approach because it's cheap and easy. :-)
Message edited by author 2007-09-19 00:10:36.
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09/19/2007 12:10:07 AM · #10 |
Originally posted by magenmarie: With the ratio's, do you mean setting one light on full power, and maybe one at 1/4 power? (I think that's how I'm understanding?) |
Well... not exactly.
You see, light diminishes with the square of the distance. Your fill light will probably be at least twice as far away as your main light. Therefore, if both lights are at the same power level, you ALREADY have a 4-to-1 lighting ratio (the fill light intensity will drop to 1/4th the amount of the main light due to the doubling of the distance).
So ... you can use a measuring tape and figure out ratios by using distances. Or use a light meter to meter each strobe separately.
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09/19/2007 12:10:53 AM · #11 |
ooooooooh! So a slave is what will fire when the others are fired. I get it. It's VERY affordable. Wonder if Wolf Camera stocks them? I'll have to check. I'll probably be heading there tomorrow. ;)
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09/19/2007 12:12:06 AM · #12 |
Originally posted by dwterry:
Well... not exactly.
You see, light diminishes with the square of the distance. Your fill light will probably be at least twice as far away as your main light. Therefore, if both lights are at the same power level, you ALREADY have a 4-to-1 lighting ratio (the fill light intensity will drop to 1/4th the amount of the main light due to the doubling of the distance).
So ... you can use a measuring tape and figure out ratios by using distances. Or use a light meter to meter each strobe separately. |
OH. That makes so much sense when you explain it like that. I get it!!! THANK you. |
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09/19/2007 09:46:28 AM · #13 |
morning bump!
Any other suggestions from anyone? :)
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09/19/2007 10:05:55 AM · #14 |
Perhaps you can call them and see if you can sit in on another photog's session before you do your own.
Message edited by author 2007-09-19 10:21:42. |
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09/19/2007 10:20:41 AM · #15 |
Originally posted by dwterry: If you want a WHITE background, you'll HAVE to use a background light. You simply *must* throw more light on the background than hits the subject. So... you can either shoot one light on the subject with a reflector (perfectly doable), or get another light so that you can use your two lights plus a background light. I think I'd invest in a cheap slave and point it at the background. |
It is much easier to add another light for background but if you have space and powerfull lights you can get away without it. I have seen video by Dean Collins where he uses ONE light with light pannels to create a high key portrait on pure white background.
Point is don't get stuck on more lights the better. Use lights creativly.
Nick
edit: Link to video
Message edited by author 2007-09-19 10:24:11. |
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09/19/2007 10:32:49 AM · #16 |
Do yourself a favor. Invest in a flashmeter.
I have the Sekonic L-358, it does everything you'll likely ever need. |
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09/19/2007 11:56:25 AM · #17 |
Good luck with your new job! Film...got love ya. I'd take my digital just to make sure I was getting something in the ballpark!
Get a meter. The Sekonic L358 (it may have been upgraded now, but a used works fine) is a good choice.
You want the BG 1 1/2 stops (more or less) above the face's exposure - with a flash meter this is a 2 minute job. without one it's not much more than guess work.
You can do what you want with 1 light, a scrim and a reflector (did you get this month's rangefinder?).
I use 2 3x4 softboxes for my high key work (300ws strobes) with one at 45 degrees and the other more like 30 degrees (a bit more stright on , but not directly straight on) both set at the same output (as measured by teh meter at the subject's face).
This doesn't give me a pure white BG, but I like it. For a pure white BG is use 2 more lights (one from each side pointed at the BG alone).
You get something like this - you can see the softboxes in the eyes
get the BG pure white and a composite like this is easy to do. Check out his dark glasses - again you can see the softboxes
I use it alot for engagement sessions too.

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09/19/2007 12:32:37 PM · #18 |
Wow. You guys are GREAT. Seriously. Thank you so much for all of your advice. I've started playing around with the set up (in my make shift studio that's in my spare bedroom.). I think I might actually do just fine with my 2 lights, a reflector, and my digital as my light meter for now. :)
I'll let you all know how it goes!!!
Thank you so much. And I'm still open to more advice if anyone has any.
:)
~MaGeN |
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09/20/2007 03:06:11 PM · #19 |
Originally posted by Nikolai1024: Originally posted by dwterry: If you want a WHITE background, you'll HAVE to use a background light. You simply *must* throw more light on the background than hits the subject. So... you can either shoot one light on the subject with a reflector (perfectly doable), or get another light so that you can use your two lights plus a background light. I think I'd invest in a cheap slave and point it at the background. |
It is much easier to add another light for background but if you have space and powerfull lights you can get away without it. I have seen video by Dean Collins where he uses ONE light with light pannels to create a high key portrait on pure white background.
Point is don't get stuck on more lights the better. Use lights creativly.
Nick
edit: Link to video |
Just found out that Dean Collins passed away. There is an article about one light high key setup in current(Sep07) RangeFinder on page 108. |
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