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08/02/2007 02:57:34 PM · #1 |
The upstairs toilet has a slow leak at the compression fitting where the pipe comes out of the wall. It had one of those cheap push/pull plastic valves. I removed it and went to Home Depot and got a metal 1/4 turn valve. My question is whether there is a trick to getting it tight enough? I've wrenched it as tight as I could and the leak appears to be just as strong (which is still only a slow drip). I'm quite sure the actual leak is coming from this joint.
Any tips?
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08/02/2007 02:59:38 PM · #2 |
Did you wrap the threads with Teflon tape? |
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08/02/2007 03:12:11 PM · #3 |
Originally posted by thegrandwazoo: Did you wrap the threads with Teflon tape? |
Would be my first question too.
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08/02/2007 03:17:56 PM · #4 |
Originally posted by DrAchoo: Any tips? |
One: don't EVER tell ANYONE about how you achieved a ribbon-winning image.
*cackle*
Ok, ok, I'll behave.
One: put things like this in the personal life forum so people don't have to read about your toilet.
*cackle*
Sorry. I got nothin' beyond using teflon tape. :)
*disclaimer to the humor-impaired: the first 2/3 of this post were an attempt to help all of us laugh at ourselves. If you haven't been reading the forums for the past few days, just ignore this post.
This has been a message from the forum civility preservation committee.*
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08/02/2007 03:24:47 PM · #5 |
Aside from the obvious teflon tape question, why not a picture of the offending joint and its fittings?
Just take a picture of it and post it. You certainly don't need to go through 130 iterations, just one should do. |
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08/02/2007 03:31:07 PM · #6 |
For the toilet stop valves, I don't think you need teflon tape. If you got the valve that fit to the copper pipe, you might just try take it off and reinstall. I think you need to hold the valve with a wrench and tighten the pressure nut with the other wrench. It might take more force than you think (don't break it though). You might also check the copper pipe to make sure there is no scratches. If you got the rubber gasket one, over tightening it could cause leak I think. |
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08/02/2007 03:34:25 PM · #7 |
Ya, it's a copper pipe and the installation instructions actually speak against using teflon tape. I'll try to reinstall it again and see if I get more luck this time.
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08/02/2007 03:35:26 PM · #8 |
If the stop valve has an olive(copper ring), overtightening will distort the olive and it will leak. Overtightening of any joint will cause leakage. |
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08/02/2007 03:37:42 PM · #9 |
Originally posted by DrAchoo: Ya, it's a copper pipe and the installation instructions actually speak against using teflon tape. I'll try to reinstall it again and see if I get more luck this time. |
If it's a straight pipe out of the wall (no threads) and you overtighten the fitting it'll leak.
I usually go for finger tight + 1/4 to 1/2 turn.
Message edited by author 2007-08-02 15:39:01. |
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08/02/2007 03:41:30 PM · #10 |
You might also want to check the valve body. The leak might be coming from the body not the compression fitting. |
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08/02/2007 03:43:01 PM · #11 |
I hear these leaks can be easily fixed by jamming a 5D between the wall and the Pipe and leaving it there...
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08/02/2007 03:50:23 PM · #12 |
Funny I was just surfing around some plumbing forums and the Teflon Tape/Pipe dope VS. None on compression fittings is a bigger debate then I could have imagined.
LOL
I say VIVA Teflon Tape! :-P
Most say that over tightening the fitting can cause a leak.
LMAO :-D |
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08/02/2007 03:51:42 PM · #13 |
Originally posted by MAK: I hear these leaks can be easily fixed by jamming a 5D between the wall and the Pipe and leaving it there... |
I heard that, too. Or use a fork. ...with teflon tape. |
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08/02/2007 03:59:16 PM · #14 |
if youre really desperate you can soke a rag in salt water and then wrap it where its leaking as tight as you can so it rusts over, thus sealing the leak...and making it much worse if you ever have to do real mantance....you know, now that i think of it, dont do that... |
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08/02/2007 04:41:07 PM · #15 |
I think I got it. I used WD-40 on the threads before I tightened. That probably made it work a bit better. I don't appear to have overtightened because it isn't leaking, but now I'm worried about that. :) I probably wound up going 3/4 to a full turn after finger tight, but who really knows because the cramped space allowed for maybe 1/8th-1/4 turn with each shot.
Thanks for the help guys.
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08/02/2007 04:47:13 PM · #16 |
Originally posted by DrAchoo: I think I got it. I used WD-40 on the threads before I tightened. That probably made it work a bit better. I don't appear to have overtightened because it isn't leaking, but now I'm worried about that. :) I probably wound up going 3/4 to a full turn after finger tight, but who really knows because the cramped space allowed for maybe 1/8th-1/4 turn with each shot.
Thanks for the help guys. |
Ok, well now that you don't need the 5D for the repair, I have a leaking faucet that could use it. I'll PM you my address.
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08/02/2007 04:49:24 PM · #17 |
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08/02/2007 05:16:41 PM · #18 |
Yeah Doc, but the real question is how may of the Ribbon Hogs did you consult with before fixing the problem?
:D
Sorry, I had to.
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08/02/2007 05:29:23 PM · #19 |
Originally posted by levyj413: Ok, well now that you don't need the 5D for the repair, I have a leaking faucet that could use it. I'll PM you my address. |
I heard that it works the absolute best if you have a 180mm f/3.5L lens attached to it. It really seals those joints!
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08/02/2007 05:43:12 PM · #20 |
If you want a good picture, all here would say: "Call a photographer." If you want your toilet fixed, do it right and call a plumber. Or, you can wait and try to fix it your self and, when the photographer screws up, .... |
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08/02/2007 05:52:10 PM · #21 |
Originally posted by d56ranger: If you want a good picture, all here would say: "Call a photographer." If you want your toilet fixed, do it right and call a plumber. Or, you can wait and try to fix it your self and, when the photographer screws up, .... |
You call the plumber when you screw up and make the original problem worse. Everybody knows that...
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08/03/2007 12:02:55 AM · #22 |
glad you got the problem fixed but man did my mind go a different direction when I saw this in the thread listing.
I first thought, why would anyone need to compress a picture to fit on a toilet...oh ok maybe their printing the image for the seat (hey I've seen them) and they need a good ratio.
Then I had an image of a rather large person trying to compress down to fit on a toilet lol. I'm sure glad the military doesn't let me handle the important toys lol. |
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08/03/2007 05:57:38 PM · #23 |
Originally posted by sabphoto: glad you got the problem fixed but man did my mind go a different direction when I saw this in the thread listing.
I first thought, why would anyone need to compress a picture to fit on a toilet...oh ok maybe their printing the image for the seat (hey I've seen them) and they need a good ratio.
Then I had an image of a rather large person trying to compress down to fit on a toilet lol. I'm sure glad the military doesn't let me handle the important toys lol. |
What, like sharp things and things that go bang!! Man, your mind lateral, your thinking is bi-lateral. A dangerous combination! |
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08/03/2007 07:54:57 PM · #24 |
Originally posted by DrAchoo: The upstairs toilet has a slow leak at the compression fitting where the pipe comes out of the wall. It had one of those cheap push/pull plastic valves. I removed it and went to Home Depot and got a metal 1/4 turn valve. My question is whether there is a trick to getting it tight enough? I've wrenched it as tight as I could and the leak appears to be just as strong (which is still only a slow drip). I'm quite sure the actual leak is coming from this joint.
Any tips? |
Doc,
1. You dont use teflon tape when working with compression.
2. If you overly tighten compression, It will leak worse than the original. Did you put the nut, then the compression filling on? Use your wrench to tighten down, but dont over tighten. Its possible If you alreasy cranked on it, the copression sleeve is damaged. Youcan buy just the sleeve at home depot, you dont have to replace the complete valve. Be sure there are no burs on the pipe coming from out of your wall. Good Luck.
ps. I worked at Home Depot for 15 years...2 in Plumbing!
Message edited by author 2007-08-03 19:56:05.
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