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05/26/2007 11:45:56 PM · #1 |
Hi,
I was wondering if anyone can give a few tips on taking these photos.
Im going to the Greek islands (cyclades) this summer. and the conditions are:
Extreme sun
Dry barren landscape
Whitewashed houses with blue roofs
and of course a beautiful blue sea
and 99.99% of the time no clouds
How can i photograph a town? im guessing ill have problems with the whites in this situation
heres one link out of many that have pics of the places ill be at
//www.photographersdirect.com/stockimages/c/cyclades.asp
Thanks for any tips ! |
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05/26/2007 11:47:03 PM · #2 |
Clearly, it can't be done unless you bring me along ;-)
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05/26/2007 11:49:51 PM · #3 |
| Set the proper white balance and dial in positive EV. |
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05/26/2007 11:53:04 PM · #4 |
It's like snow...over expose. More white needs more light.
If you've got $'s to spend you could get an ambient light meter so you could set manual exposures...but if you've got $$$ then I'm with  Rebecca, it can't be done unless you bring us me along.
;)
Message edited by author 2007-05-26 23:53:58. |
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05/26/2007 11:54:41 PM · #5 |
you'll need to find a town - to start. then you'll have to wait for clouds - they will add depth to the image. oh, and of course, you'll have to have your camera, and a lens.
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05/27/2007 12:01:10 AM · #6 |
If you are anywhere near a beach, you can go there and do some practice shooting with different settings to get an idea of how to shoot on the islands. Practice shooting and seeing what you have in the LCD screen in full sunlight for reference before you go.
I would also try to get quality polarizers for your lenses, and learn how to use them to your advantage.
Lens shades help too when it is bright on the ground.
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05/27/2007 12:06:53 AM · #7 |
| Go out and get a few Neutral Density fileters. +2 +4 +8 and one that is half ND and half clear for the sky. That will help balance the shots and you can combine them or use just one depending on the situations. You can also combine them with Polarizers. |
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05/27/2007 03:57:50 AM · #8 |
Previous comments agreed, and maybe switching the color profile to VIVID on the D40. Worth a look.
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05/27/2007 06:42:06 AM · #9 |
Use a polarizer as much as possible, and familiarise yourself with how they work. Ideally, you need to take photos at 90 degrees to the sun for the best effects.
On the whole, don't take photos at midday. Wait for dawn and dusk light.
Always shoot RAW.
If you shoot JPEG, use -2 saturation and -2 contrast.
Use a cloudy colour balance to bring a little warmth out of the colours.
Use flash if you're including any people. |
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05/27/2007 06:48:29 AM · #10 |
Use a polarizer, otherwise your sky will be totally white.
Regarding exposure, this will trip your automatic exposure meter.
If you have mainly houses, you should overexpose (same as snow case). However, as you put more sky into your pictures you will have to underexpose.
In any case, I'd suggest you to use exposure bracketing with a margin as high as possible (about +- 1 F stop) |
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05/27/2007 07:28:37 AM · #11 |
Yes, a Polariser will be your friend. When used right, you'll get stunning rich blue skies to contrast beautifully with the whitewashed buildings. It's also invaluable for shooting around water, particularly in the middle of the day, when a polariser can completely cut the surface glare, and give you lovely blue-green water.
One example from folio - 
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05/27/2007 07:35:25 AM · #12 |
Originally posted by Rebecca:
Clearly, it can't be done unless you bring me along ;-) |
The more the merrier! |
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05/27/2007 07:38:08 AM · #13 |
Wow thanks for the tips.
Have a polarizer, but will try to learn the ins and out of it. I havent used it much except to reduce reflections on some building photos.
Bracketing, underexposing, over exposing..Im just gonna print this thread to bring along with me..
Thanks...and see you in August Free study ;) |
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05/27/2007 11:58:10 AM · #14 |
If you are going to be walking a lot to shoot pics, I would suggest that a good light monopod would be a great asset. You can use it with a remote or self timer to elevate your camera in order to shoot over walls, off the side of cliffs, and over the top of crowds. It can give your camera a lot of perspective that you would not be able to get otherwise. Having the monopod also will allow you to shoot in much lower light right before sunrise and after sunset with shutter speeds that you would not hand hold. It is also very nice to have when you have to stand in one place for a while, as you can rest on your camera a bit instead of having to hold it up all day. When shooting events, I find myself thinking that I am very glad to have a way to take the load off my arms.
Here are a couple of images as examples of getting the camera up or out with my monopod:
  
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