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04/27/2007 01:35:55 PM · #1
Me something i like learning and im BORED

BOOM!
04/27/2007 01:38:42 PM · #2
Take your pick :)

or maybe these...
04/27/2007 01:40:54 PM · #3
Polypropylene resin for the manufacture of films to be used as the dielectric base for film wound capacitors used in lighting ballasts, batteries, motor starters must have an ash content below 15 parts per million. If the ash content is above this, adherence of vapor deposited metals such as aluminum, silver, and zinc will be poor and the metallized film will fail what is called 'the tape test' as well as having a low DF value which will render the capacitor useless.

Message edited by author 2007-04-27 13:43:10.
04/27/2007 01:46:10 PM · #4
Originally posted by CEJ:

Polypropylene resin for the manufacture of films to be used as the dielectric base for film wound capacitors used in lighting ballasts, batteries, motor starters must have an ash content below 15 parts per million. If the ash content is above this, adherence of vapor deposited metals such as aluminum, silver, and zinc will be poor and the metallized film will fail what is called 'the tape test' as well as having a low DF value which will render the capacitor useless.


Well duh.
04/27/2007 01:48:43 PM · #5
LOL ahblah
ive changed my mind!

yeah i was messing around takeing pics in my room b4 (the camera was faceing a very bright open window and the room was relitivly dull) so the pictures turned out very dull regardless of the light meter reading, and no amount of photoshop got them good!

any ideas?
04/27/2007 01:57:03 PM · #6
Originally posted by exclamationjay:

LOL ahblah
ive changed my mind!

yeah i was messing around takeing pics in my room b4 (the camera was faceing a very bright open window and the room was relitivly dull) so the pictures turned out very dull regardless of the light meter reading, and no amount of photoshop got them good!

any ideas?


can you post an example?
04/27/2007 02:07:06 PM · #7
Originally posted by exclamationjay:

so the pictures turned out very dull regardless of the light meter reading, and no amount of photoshop got them good!

any ideas?

I refer you to the Polypropylene resin post above/below. That's the method I use.

edit: Boom! :-P

Message edited by author 2007-04-27 14:08:13.
04/27/2007 02:09:27 PM · #8
here is a example

thanks
04/27/2007 02:21:58 PM · #9
A single levels adjustment is a good start...
04/27/2007 02:25:47 PM · #10
yeah that a improvement but still not good

i wanted to no what i could do b4 i took the picture to prevent a pic like htis
04/27/2007 02:30:10 PM · #11
Originally posted by exclamationjay:

(the camera was faceing a very bright open window and the room was relitivly dull) so the pictures turned out very dull regardless of the light meter reading, and no amount of photoshop got them good!

any ideas?

Spot-meter on somplace other than the open window, so your exposure will be set for the room interior -- the window may blow out completely.

You can also take bracketed exposures on a tripod and merge them with a technique called HDR (High Dynamic Range -- search the forums for numerous threads) editing to keep both highlight and shadow detail.

Curves will provide a remedy similar to the Levels example previously posted, but with more control.

Message edited by author 2007-04-27 14:30:55.
04/27/2007 02:30:38 PM · #12
Originally posted by exclamationjay:

yeah that a improvement but still not good

i wanted to no what i could do b4 i took the picture to prevent a pic like htis

Hire a photographer. ba dup cha! Just kidding.

Sorry, I misunderstood your request. I'll let someone who knows what they're doing with a camera answer you...

edit: ...like the General. :)

Message edited by author 2007-04-27 14:31:05.
04/27/2007 02:53:16 PM · #13
Think of a room you like to photograph. Find one or create it.
Photograph the room when the light is conducive to your vision of it.
Expose according to you vision (pre-visualisation) of it.

When you have the room framed satisfactorily in the viewfinder, wait.
When you have that and confidence in your camera settings, wait.
When your knees get numb and your mind goes blank, wait.

When, after some time, you feel you have gotten to know the room a little, make adjustments taking into account what you have learnt and wait.
When you've forgotten whatever it was you wanted in the first place, you, the camera, the room and the rooms surrounding the room will become one for a fleeting moment.

Press the shutter button.

04/27/2007 03:15:06 PM · #14
thanks thanks thanks

now ive learned something =D

ill post the final image (dont get to excieted im only practiseing in different circumstances)

BOOOOM!
04/27/2007 03:19:59 PM · #15
Originally posted by Art Roflmao:

Originally posted by exclamationjay:

yeah that a improvement but still not good

i wanted to no what i could do b4 i took the picture to prevent a pic like htis

Hire a photographer. ba dup cha! Just kidding.

Sorry, I misunderstood your request. I'll let someone who knows what they're doing with a camera answer you...

edit: ...like the General. :)


this works realy well for the room its perfect but i loose the window then! which isnt as bad at al, but is there away to get both with good exposure? other than HDR whic i will try now =D

04/27/2007 03:29:39 PM · #16
HDR dont get both window and room exposed correctly |BOO
04/27/2007 03:38:46 PM · #17
The camera sensor (or film) is only capable of distinguishing between a certain number of shades -- this is its Dynamic Range. If your subject's range of tones covers more shades than that, it is physically impossible to capture them all with a single exposure -- one or both ends of the tone scale will be clipped.

With true HDR editing, you properly expose separately for highlight, midtone, and shadow areas, and them combine the best parts of each capture.
04/27/2007 03:41:23 PM · #18
GenralE you are a photography Guru

hahahaha
04/27/2007 03:45:03 PM · #19
Be forewarned, I know a little about everything, but everything about nothing.
04/27/2007 05:30:06 PM · #20
Originally posted by CEJ:

Polypropylene resin for the manufacture of films to be used as the dielectric base for film wound capacitors used in lighting ballasts, batteries, motor starters must have an ash content below 15 parts per million. If the ash content is above this, adherence of vapor deposited metals such as aluminum, silver, and zinc will be poor and the metallized film will fail what is called 'the tape test' as well as having a low DF value which will render the capacitor useless.


The scariest thing is that I understood all of this other than not knowing what "DF" stands for. D is probably dielectric.
04/27/2007 05:37:28 PM · #21
Originally posted by GeneralE:

Be forewarned, I know a little about everything, but everything about nothing.

He can be downright dangerous sometimes. ;)
04/27/2007 05:48:32 PM · #22
Originally posted by GeneralE:

Be forewarned, I know a little about everything, but everything about nothing.


There's a lot to be seen in nothing.
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