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02/24/2007 09:17:59 AM · #1 |
When shooting my frames for HDR, should I strive for none of the images to have blown highlights? For example, should the "brightest" shot be just below where any blowout would occur?
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02/24/2007 09:19:07 AM · #2 |
| you may need to blow out parts of the shot to get good light on some of the shadows. |
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02/24/2007 09:19:20 AM · #3 |
Originally posted by kenskid:
When shooting my frames for HDR, should I strive for none of the images to have blown highlights? For example, should the "brightest" shot be just below where any blowout would occur? |
Not sure i normally shoot with EV like his -2 -1 0 +1 +2. I would think the D70 can auto bracket like that? I had todo it manually.
Message edited by author 2007-02-24 09:27:40. |
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02/24/2007 09:26:16 AM · #4 |
So I imagine that Photomatix "throws out" the highlights altogether.
Originally posted by Elvis_L:
you may need to blow out parts of the shot to get good light on some of the shadows. |
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02/24/2007 10:16:50 AM · #5 |
Originally posted by kenskid:
So I imagine that Photomatix "throws out" the highlights altogether.
Originally posted by Elvis_L:
you may need to blow out parts of the shot to get good light on some of the shadows. |
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yea it finds the best exposed parts of each shot |
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02/24/2007 11:43:11 AM · #6 |
| Not always. I've had parts of the sky turn a lovely shade of magenta... But that's usually when working with a single image where I probably have indeed blown the sky a bit. If you're working with multiple images, I suspect it'll do a better job. |
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02/24/2007 12:56:13 PM · #7 |
Originally posted by Melethia:
Not always. I've had parts of the sky turn a lovely shade of magenta... But that's usually when working with a single image where I probably have indeed blown the sky a bit. If you're working with multiple images, I suspect it'll do a better job. |
I have had several shots where it turned part of the sky magenta too. I haven't figured out exactly what i did wrong in those shots yet. I have the beta version of the new one now so I wonder if it works better. |
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02/24/2007 01:03:14 PM · #8 |
Given a scene that is truly beyond the DR of the camera, and therefore a candidate for HDR, you'll absolutely *need* to blow highlights in some frames, and to lose shadows in others. The objective of the HDR software is to then combine them in such a way that the best areas from all are used. The final step, tonemapping, assures that the result "looks proper" on the output device.
In contrast, for "quasi-HDR" done from a single RAW frame, you *must* hold the highlights, since they cannot be recovered once they are blown *in the RAW data.* |
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02/24/2007 01:34:05 PM · #9 |
Originally posted by kirbic:
Given a scene that is truly beyond the DR of the camera, and therefore a candidate for HDR, you'll absolutely *need* to blow highlights in some frames, and to lose shadows in others. The objective of the HDR software is to then combine them in such a way that the best areas from all are used. The final step, tonemapping, assures that the result "looks proper" on the output device.
In contrast, for "quasi-HDR" done from a single RAW frame, you *must* hold the highlights, since they cannot be recovered once they are blown *in the RAW data.* |
I was about to answer this, but Kirbic beat me to it. Right on. In "true" HDR imaging, the best shadow exposure will always blow the highlights, and the best highlight exposure will always block the shadows. If this doesn't happen, you don't need HDRI; tone mapping from 3 variant exposures or even tone mapping a single exposure will give you what you need to work with, if you are looking for the "HDR effect", and "normal" processing will probably work fine for you if you're not looking for an effect.
R.
Message edited by author 2007-02-24 13:34:17.
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02/24/2007 01:40:44 PM · #10 |
| Thanks all...I'm learning every day. |
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02/24/2007 01:51:26 PM · #11 |
Adding further to what kirbic and bear_music have already said is that you might ask yourself this question:
Do I really need to capture this scene under this lighting or can I shoot it at another time under better lighting conditions?
Most of the time you should be able to avoid true HDR situations just by taking the picture under better lighting conditions. Generally speaking, the capture should be pretty darned important before you would resort to extreme measures like HDR where the cost/benefit for the effort might not be worth it.
Message edited by author 2007-02-24 13:52:07.
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