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DPChallenge Forums >> Photography Discussion >> DOF table for macro photography
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02/03/2007 11:33:49 AM · #1
I'm looking for a DOF table for macrophotography. I would very much appreciate it if someone could point me to one for Rebel XT + EF-S 60mm macro lens or give me some suggestions on adapting one. (I'm capable of using a spreadsheet.)
02/03/2007 12:17:57 PM · #2
That's actually a *very* difficult question to answer to a high degree of accuracy. You're correct that you'd need a table that's specific to both your lens, and your camera system. The lens is important because, in "macro" magnification range, the DOF is influenced by the pupil magnification, which is a property of the lens. Unfortunately, it's not easily determined, and not given by the lens manufacturer. :-P
The camera is important because the circle of confusion is dependent on the properties of the sensor (and also your assumptions in calculating it, but that's another topic). Here is a discussion of DoF for the mathematically inclined.
All that said, a good first approximation of the DOF can be made using magnification only:

DOF = (2*COC*FL *(M+l))/M^2

In the above formula, I recommend setting the circle of confusion, COC, to two times the pixel pitch of your sensor, or about 0.013mm. the focal length, FL, is the labeled focal length of the lens.
This approximation may be off by 10% or so for reasons stated in the above link. Also, the focal length of some macro lenses is dependent on magnification, for instance, the Canon 100/28 Macro's FL decreases slightly (<10%) at 1:1 magnification.

TMI??
02/04/2007 01:19:20 AM · #3
Check out these two links:

//www.dofmaster.com/dofjs.html
//www.liquidsculpture.com/dof.htm Click on the simulator link.

02/04/2007 08:16:46 AM · #4
Thank you for the responses. I got the following last week hand-holding the camera in a hot greenhouse. I took lots of shots hoping to get something. Armed with a tripod and more info, I'll try again.
02/04/2007 10:02:42 AM · #5
Originally posted by kirbic:

DOF = (2*COC*FL *(M+l))/M^2


Nobody said I had to learn formulas! I'm going to cheat off Robert_Music's paper!
02/04/2007 10:15:19 PM · #6
I still want a table.... I doubt that I'm going to become an artist anytime soon because I'd like to decrease some of the trial and error stuff.
So, to make a table, I need to take a bunch of photos with graph paper or a tape measure spread out in front of the camera.... and then look at the images for what I think is focus and record those numbers.
02/04/2007 10:25:13 PM · #7
the other thing you can do is push that little button on the front part of your camera and you can see the dof in the viewfinder before you take the shot.
02/04/2007 10:26:46 PM · #8
Yes, I like that little button but I haven't figured out what to do about the 'gets really dark' part. Do you have any suggestions for that?
02/04/2007 10:27:13 PM · #9
A table can sometimes be a pain in the butt. Your camera has a DOF button on it. Set the f/stop, then push the button to see the DOF. Or, just take a shot.

A table will really only help you so much. In the field, and for a quick shot, you won't have time to calculate out the distance between you and your subject, and +/- the DOF you want, then look it up in the table, then choose which aperature is right against the balance of your light conditions/photographic setup (i.e. tripod).

Its best to get a general appreciation for the DOF, perhaps using tables, and learn to judge distances.

Experience, also known as trial and error, will help you learn much more than a table will.

Message edited by author 2007-02-04 22:27:54.
02/04/2007 10:28:18 PM · #10
Kirbic gave me a headache... really want to do macro now... LOL

I cheat: //www.dofmaster.com/dofjs.html


02/04/2007 11:26:31 PM · #11
Originally posted by cornettcag:

Yes, I like that little button but I haven't figured out what to do about the 'gets really dark' part. Do you have any suggestions for that?


You betcha: if we're talking stationary, set-up macros, bring in a secondary, very powerful light source and light the setup with a TON of up-close-and-personal light while compositing and checking DOF; then use your intended light source for the actual shooting. This doesn't work for macros-on-the-fly, of course, and it's problematical if you're shooting, say, ice cream, which has an annoying tendency to melt when you blast it with 1000W of studio lights from 12 inches away :-)

R.
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