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12/29/2006 07:56:56 PM · #26 |
Originally posted by jaded_youth: Oh... That makes sense. sorry. |
It's ok, you're cute, you can get away with it ;-)
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12/29/2006 08:02:45 PM · #27 |
I'm removeing the quote because he seems helpful now days. That email was over a year ago and included links to sites with information.
Message edited by author 2006-12-31 01:43:08. |
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12/29/2006 08:04:51 PM · #28 |
ok. so another stupid question. I'm full of them today. maybe I should just go to sleep. :P In order to have the room dark except for when the strobes go off(in case I end up using them) how do I make them dark but still fire when I shoot? is that even possible? They are always giving off a certain amount of light when they are on..I'll just try the flash first I think. This is all too confusing. ugh. I have some ok shots. I just want them sharper. they arent horrible they just arent fantastic either. |
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12/29/2006 08:05:44 PM · #29 |
Originally posted by Niten:
Here is what he told me a long time ago. "I dont really want to write a complete description of my techniques. It is my intellectual property..." blah blah blah |
rofl. well, good for him. but it's not helping ME right now! :P |
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12/29/2006 08:06:34 PM · #30 |
off to try the flash a little.... be back |
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12/29/2006 08:19:56 PM · #31 |
Originally posted by Niten:
Here is what he told me a long time ago. "I dont really want to write a complete description of my techniques. It is my intellectual property..." blah blah blah |
Oh paleease!
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12/29/2006 08:36:05 PM · #32 |
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12/29/2006 08:42:41 PM · #33 |
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12/29/2006 08:44:21 PM · #34 |
the flash was a little better I think. |
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12/29/2006 08:44:57 PM · #35 |
Originally posted by jaded_youth: the flash was a little better I think. |
do you have a 430EX?
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12/29/2006 08:47:13 PM · #36 |
Originally posted by rex: Originally posted by jaded_youth: the flash was a little better I think. |
do you have a 430EX? |
yeah |
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12/29/2006 08:49:15 PM · #37 |
If you push that mode button once can't you then raise your shutter speed?
I know I can on my 30D to 1/8000
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12/29/2006 08:52:09 PM · #38 |
I have no idea. I need to find the manual that came with it. Ive never really used it before tonight. |
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12/29/2006 08:58:35 PM · #39 |
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12/29/2006 09:10:17 PM · #40 |
heres a crappy attempt...ugh. i'll try it in the full sun maybe tommorrow.
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12/29/2006 10:39:50 PM · #41 |
Originally posted by jaded_youth: heres a crappy attempt...ugh. i'll try it in the full sun maybe tommorrow.
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That's not crappy.
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12/29/2006 11:17:41 PM · #42 |
Originally posted by fotomann_forever:
That's not crappy. |
Did you see that shot on the front page? THAT is cool. this? not so much. I'll get there though. you mark my words!! MWHAaaaa!! lol, ok. it's late. i'm getting goofier than usual. I should go to sleep now. :P |
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12/29/2006 11:20:00 PM · #43 |
Nah, get more Mountain Dew and let's get crunk :-)
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12/29/2006 11:22:04 PM · #44 |
Get Crunk??? Thank goodness I didnt just have mountain dew in my mouth when I read that! rofl... You sound a tad sleep deprived yourself :P |
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12/29/2006 11:26:09 PM · #45 |
Originally posted by jaded_youth: Did you see that shot on the front page? THAT is cool. this? not so much. I'll get there though. you mark my words!! MWHAaaaa!! lol, ok. it's late. i'm getting goofier than usual. I should go to sleep now. :P |
yours is plenty cool... the trick to these shots (i played around with this back in high school, with film... rather expensive) is that it may take hundreds of shots to get the timing right where there is an amazing effect. the one on the front page said they spent 5 hours working on that shot... and that's from someone who has experience doing this technique. also, IreneM said she used a pipette to create the drops, so she could control the size of the drops based upon the results. keep posting your efforts, and don't downplay the results... if anything, add some more info (lens, shutter speed...). |
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12/29/2006 11:28:33 PM · #46 |
thanks. I'll put the info on the shot. |
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12/30/2006 12:26:40 AM · #47 |
Originally posted by jaded_youth: Get Crunk??? Thank goodness I didnt just have mountain dew in my mouth when I read that! rofl... You sound a tad sleep deprived yourself :P |
I didn't fall asleep, I was on the phone :-)
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12/30/2006 12:50:21 AM · #48 |
Very interesting thread as I'm trying to understand how to better shoot water drops.
The question that's hunting my mind is: What's the speed of my SB-600 ?
I know my D80 has a max flash sync of 1/200 only which isn't fast enough for a really HQ freeze but if my SB-600 is faster, I should be able to shoot in a dark room and use the flash speed as the "shutter speed". So what is the speed of the SB-600 flash?
I've been trying to find information on that matter all over the net but found nothing concerning the SB-600.
Here there is someone saying the SB-800 is as fast as 1/56,000 but I'd like more information: //photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00Ivcv
There has to be a chart somewhere with specs on flash speeds for the SB-600 like this...
power ---> speed
1/1 ---> 1/10,000
1/2 ---> 1/20,000
1/4 ---> 1/25,000
1/8 ---> etc...
Message edited by author 2006-12-30 00:52:42. |
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12/30/2006 01:28:49 AM · #49 |
Originally posted by yann: Very interesting thread as I'm trying to understand how to better shoot water drops.
The question that's hunting my mind is: What's the speed of my SB-600 ?
I know my D80 has a max flash sync of 1/200 only which isn't fast enough for a really HQ freeze but if my SB-600 is faster, I should be able to shoot in a dark room and use the flash speed as the "shutter speed". So what is the speed of the SB-600 flash?
I've been trying to find information on that matter all over the net but found nothing concerning the SB-600.
Here there is someone saying the SB-800 is as fast as 1/56,000 but I'd like more information: //photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00Ivcv
There has to be a chart somewhere with specs on flash speeds for the SB-600 like this...
power ---> speed
1/1 ---> 1/10,000
1/2 ---> 1/20,000
1/4 ---> 1/25,000
1/8 ---> etc... |
I think you're confusing two things; flash duration and camera sync speed.
Flash duration is a function of your flash unit and the power setting. Lower power means a shorter duration. That's how the manufacturer varies power. The pulse of light isn't any brighter or darker for higher or lower power, the pulse of light is longer or shorter. That pulse will be much faster than the sync speed.
Sync speed is a function of your camera, specifically, it's the fastest shutter speed which the first curtain of the shutter is completely open before the second curtain starts to close. With shutter speeds faster than the sync speed, the shutter basically is a moving slit. |
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12/30/2006 12:54:15 PM · #50 |
Here is a short description of my general approach:
I have used a variety of Canon digital SLRs: D60, 10D, 20D, and now the 5D. In some ways the 20D has been the best for this work.
I like a 180mm macro lens: it gives me good working distance, a narrow angle of view, and excellent optics. The camera is about 2-3 feet from the splash zone to get a reasonable field of view.
I use fairly typical high-speed photography techniques:
I leave the shutter open for a relatively long time (in a darkened room) and use a flash to illuminate the splash. The flash needs to be of a fairly short duration to stop the motion well. I use something like a 50 microsecond flash. I get this by modifying the photo sensor circuit on Vivitar 285HV flash. Timing the flash is done with a photogate and electronic timer. I have built my own timing and triggering devices (a few different ones, as I learned how to do it better.) www.hiviz.com has techniques, equipment diagrams, and kits.
The photography is actually the easier part of what I do.
Handling the fluids is what takes the creativity and patience. They are so willfully non-linear! I have developed a fairly complex system to create drops and do the timing. Still, I take a lot pictures and make a lot of mistakes.
One setup is described in //www.dpchallenge.com/how.php?HOW_ID=38.
You might have a look at: //www.photosig.com/articles/1489/article and //www.popphoto.com/howto/2508/you-can-do-it-how-to-photograph-water-drops.html
//www.makezine.com/flashkit/ looks like a reasonable starter kit.
North Carolina School of Science and Mathematics (courses.ncssm.edu/hsi/) has some good info.
Andrew Davidhazy, at the Rochester Institute of Technology, www.rit.edu/~andpph, has good information on high-speed techniques, as well as other fascinating types of photography.
Harold âDocâ Edgerton, of course, is the father of the xenon flash tube and high-speed photography. Search for his books on Amazon.com.
users.skynet.be/fotoopa/ has some creative techniques.
Equipment for can be purchased from www.bmumford.com and www.woodselec.com.
Martin Waugh
www.liquidsculpture.com
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