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05/15/2003 03:39:42 PM · #1 |
I have a new G3 -- but even if I were still using my SLR, I'd still need advice about this kind of exposure.
Here's the situation:
I'll be outside in an area I cannot control in terms of people passing, wind, etc. I want to take a picture of a an object about 8 feet high from about 10 feet away - the object has a number of lights on it of different colors, but none of them are on at the same time. I want to get some of the colored lights lit at the same time in one shot.
I figure that with a tripod, I should be able to do this -- unless the wind is very strong, my subject should be still enough for a good focus.
I've had very little experience with long exposures (probably for the same reason I don't make macaroni and cheese from scratch -- I don't seem to be able to do it successfuly).
I will check with a timer to see how long each light is on (they don't go from one to the other too fast, but I'm not 100% sure they all stay on for the same amount of time), and I'll start the exposure right before the first light goes out. For purposes of argument, let's say each light is on for 3 seconds.
Could anyone suggest a good exposure setting to at least start with? I will probably be shooting around noon -- there's a dark background around this object, and I figured mid-day would be best if I don't want a lot of flare from the lights.
Thanks for your help. Ruth :)
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05/15/2003 04:13:01 PM · #2 |
If you are not wanting it for a challenge why not take several shots and combine them in post processing.. I had to overcome the fear of post processing myself, and this is why I mention it. Coming from an SLR film world, I was of the opinion that you had to make the shot perfect in the camera.. I have now seen the light and realise that post processing is actually a strong part of most good digital shots...
Good luck
Brent |
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05/15/2003 04:22:36 PM · #3 |
You will probably need to stop down your aperature as far as it will go, depending on the amount of light at the scene, you may even need a neutral density filter to filter out the excess light.
I don't know what f-stops your camera is capable of but lets say f11 @ 3 secs, try a bunch of combos, your biggest challenge will be too much light with an exposure that long mid day. |
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05/15/2003 09:25:59 PM · #4 |
Agree with above posts, yoiur problem mid-day will be WAY too much light. f8 is the smallest aperture you have available on the Dimage 5 (f9.5@ full telephoto). If we assume 1/250 @ f8 for mid-day normal exposure, an ND8 filter would give three stops, so 1/30 @ f8. Still way too fast.
I like the multiple exposure idea, but if you have leaves moving you'll get "multiple exposure" effect as you catch them at different positions. People are more problematic, and would not be a big problem if you can get the exposure long enough.
You might try to find a very dark glass (I've tried shooting through the glass from a welding goggle). You're looking for a minimum exposure of about 10s if you want to fully expose all of the lights, assuming the 3s estimate is accurate. You will need to use "bulb", since your maximum exposure time is 4s, I believe. If you use bulb, you essentially have your finger constantly on the release and so shake will be an issue. Do you have a remote release?
If you don't have a remote release, you could try multiple 4s exposures. |
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05/15/2003 09:44:15 PM · #5 |
| I took a waterfall picture with a nd2 filter 1/15th of a second f9 and it was not overexpossed at 9:30am so I am thinking that an nd8 filter would give at the very least 1/2 of a second. |
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05/16/2003 01:40:28 PM · #6 |
Thanks, everyone.
I tested my exposures in various lighting inside (single lamp on at night, curtains closed with no light on in a.m.) -- with and without a small flashlight pointed at the camera -- and I feel a little bit better now and have some idea of what to start with.
My G3 will only go to 8.0 and the longest exposure possible is 15 seconds, but CLEARLY, I'm going to have to shoot at dusk -- even in a darkened room, I got an overexposure at those settings once I focused on the flashlight.
I was not using the built-in neutral density filter (I don't have any neutral density filters that fit my G3 yet). I'll wait and test that when I'm at the actual lights themselves.
Thanks again! As usual, you guys on this website have really helped!
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05/16/2003 01:50:32 PM · #7 |
You can also try to change the ISO rating on you Camera. The Lower the less sensitive to light. Mine goes from 50 to 400. I think you have more range on your G3.
G3 *drool* Ooops, sorry did I get any on you?
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05/16/2003 01:59:01 PM · #8 |
| Fiver, the G3 is great. Iso on G3 is 50-400. However, here at dpc we are all a bunch of droolers. I drool about those 10Ds and that crowd drools about lenses :) |
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05/16/2003 02:04:02 PM · #9 |
Yes lenses are nice but they have caused me to lose my mind. I came within inches of buying a refurb 500mm f/4L IS USM this morning in for $4800. Pure insanity!
Greg |
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