Author | Thread |
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08/08/2006 07:30:21 AM · #76 |
Originally posted by chiefhane:
As for the Prof...if you take your boot off of my head long enough for me to look through the eyepiece, I might be able to snap a few shots. (I am totally kidding!) I'm a newbie at this and enjoy my expensive hobby. As for "consumer glass, weak flashes and not enough memory" water off a ducks back. I've gotten by on less. And BTW I bought the 75-300 to shoot outside, in the duck blind, four years ago (while I was paying for college) for my Rebel 35mm. I bet you loved your first zoom as much as I do mine.
Edit to add: We don't say "Purdy" in Missouri, where do you think this is Arkansas! (Again kidding, for all the Arkansas folks out there)
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Glad you're not offended - apparently some think it's a sin to offer unsolicited advice.
my first tele was the sigma 70-300 4-5.6 APO, a decent lens most will agree, but i found a huge difference when I got my 70-210 2.8.
Good luck with your wedding. |
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08/08/2006 07:41:55 AM · #77 |
Originally posted by Prof_Fate: Glad you're not offended - apparently some think it's a sin to offer unsolicited advice.
my first tele was the sigma 70-300 4-5.6 APO, a decent lens most will agree, but i found a huge difference when I got my 70-210 2.8.
Good luck with your wedding. |
Fate...you've given me EXTREMELY good advice in the past and I appreciate it. What you said in this thread is IM(rookie)O, right on the money. Even if nobody else here listened to what you said, know that there is at least one person that did.
Chief...good luck at the wedding. Let us know how the shots come out.
Message edited by author 2006-08-08 07:42:14. |
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08/08/2006 01:11:29 PM · #78 |
Originally posted by nshapiro: I suggest getting the additional memory cards--perhaps the bride will pay for it. Shoot in RAW only, you don't need to shoot RAW+JPEG because with the right tools, it's easy to convert RAW > JPEG en masse. And in the right tool, you can convert en masse while still covering white balance and other issues.
Download the free RSE (Raw Shooter Essentials) and it will let you quickly custom set the settings for all the RAW images, and then save them all to JPEG. Just set one of each lighting on a case by case basis, and then copy/paste the settings to all similar images.
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RSE is good, but Canon's Digital Photo Pro gives you a better image (IMO) with less work. If you're close, DPP is the way to go. If you are off, RSE gives you more controls that you can use to save the picture.
BTW, If you're going to spend the day at a wedding and reception, you should spend a couple of hours sorting the pictures, and at least makeing a first pass at fixing exposure and WB issues. Once you get used to it, you can do a fair job of fixing exposure and WB in RSE or DPP and it will only take an hour or two for 300 or so pictures (depending on how close you are and how picky you are about the output.) |
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08/08/2006 01:30:46 PM · #79 |
Originally posted by eschelar:
Then get a 4GB CF card.. Should be able to get one for around 100 bucks US equivalent (4GB Apacer 100X). Mine was $110 3 months ago... I've seen faster cards for less since then.
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Don't forget a grey card. And shoot it often, flash off. You don't need to shoot it in custom white balance mode if you are shooting in RAW. You can use it for color adjustment later on.
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Sometimes two 2GB cards are cheaper than one 4GB card, and (at least on my camera) 2GB cards have faster write times than 4GB cards, even if the cards are the same speed by the same manufacturer.
Even if you're shooting in RAW CWB is nice. But if you use click white balance in post-processing, you need something white (or grey) in the picture to click on. Note that detergents have "blueing" in them to make whites look whiter, so don't assume that the bride's dress or groom's shirt is white. If the photo is important and you can do it, take at least two shots, one with a grey card in it near (or covering) the subject's face. This will let you get an accurate WB, which you can copy to the other photo. Note: its especially important to position the grey card near the main point of interest when you have mixed lighting. |
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08/08/2006 10:20:31 PM · #80 |
Good advice hank. In my area, 4GB cards are 25% cheaper than 2 2GB cards. I think Canada and America are often a bit behind in pricing, but that does tend to vary... sometimes cards are cheaper in America. I heard of a Ridata 2GB card for 28 bucks the other day...
When shooting in RAW, and processing afterwards, you can use the RAW conversion software to grab a color temperature adjustment, then copy and paste it to another image. This means that you don't have to worry about flipping through menus so you can take the pic in CWB setting.
I set custom white balance once (better than AWB because it sets a standard and it should be fairly close - AWB will jump around and make later changes a nightmare) and try to take grey card shots now and again if the light changes and such...
All I'm saying is that you don't really need to surf the menus. A quick snap of a grey card should be sufficient. |
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08/09/2006 01:15:45 PM · #81 |
Originally posted by eschelar:
When shooting in RAW, and processing afterwards, you can use the RAW conversion software to grab a color temperature adjustment, then copy and paste it to another image. This means that you don't have to worry about flipping through menus so you can take the pic in CWB setting.
I set custom white balance once (better than AWB because it sets a standard and it should be fairly close - AWB will jump around and make later changes a nightmare) and try to take grey card shots now and again if the light changes and such...
All I'm saying is that you don't really need to surf the menus. A quick snap of a grey card should be sufficient. |
Yet another good use for the "print" button. :-) (i.e. Set CWB via the print button)
In single source lighting, I agree that CWB for that light is the way to go. In mixed lighting, or with lights that change color on a 60Hz (or 50Hz) cycle, like some fluorescents, AWB may be better.
Guess what we both are saying is that if you shoot RAW, and use a grey card enough, the WB you select in-camera doesn't matter. |
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08/09/2006 04:30:21 PM · #82 |
didn't read all teh posts, but if you need memory or batteries, ebay is the best. I know people here hate it, but I buy 1GM cards for under $20 and I got a canon battery for $6.95 and $6 of that was shipping. Just my advice. |
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08/09/2006 05:13:53 PM · #83 |
Originally posted by eschelar: Hey dude, here's my two cents...
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Good advice, especially getting the 50mm f1.8, shooting at iso 800 etc. Also take some backup gear, if you dont have another camera, beg or borrow one. If you can then shoot RAW but I have shot jpeg for weddings and they were fine. I prefer RAW but the 300D is just to slow - 3 quick shots and it has to catch up!
I dont have a great deal of wedding experience, I have only shot one wedding but have been at others were I took hundreds of candids and formal shots etc (even with my old 300D and the 50mm f1.8)and the they have wondered why they spent £1500 on a pro as they thought mine better (blows own trumpet!). Try and relax and enjoy the day!
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06/05/2009 08:11:28 PM · #84 |
wow, 3 years later and this reads like it was written yesterday ;-) |
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06/09/2009 09:39:24 AM · #85 |
Originally posted by Skip: wow, 3 years later and this reads like it was written yesterday ;-) |
Except card sizes are now about 4 times as large and 1/2 the price.
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06/09/2009 01:03:58 PM · #86 |
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