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08/07/2006 12:49:48 AM · #1 |
Which one do you use the most? |
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08/07/2006 12:50:55 AM · #2 |
Probably partial, but it really depends on the subject, lighting, etc.
Message edited by author 2006-08-07 00:51:13. |
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08/07/2006 01:35:59 AM · #3 |
Spot -- with rare exceptions.
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08/07/2006 01:45:43 AM · #4 |
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08/07/2006 01:55:23 AM · #5 |
| Spot meter, scan the scene and lock exposure at peak values, or do the same, scan for the brightest, then switch to manual based on the values, always trying to keep exposures on the under-exposed side, but at least 1/2 stop. |
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08/07/2006 02:03:25 AM · #6 |
| I take two shots of most everything, one where I let the camera decide and one where I spot meter, and sometimes I try spot metering on two different things, one shot for dark and one for light (three shots) and then just hope that one comes out... usually the best one is where the camera got to choose |
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08/07/2006 02:27:58 AM · #7 |
It depends on the situation. For snapshots I just use overall and let the camera do all the work. Otherwise I use weighted or spot metering - and if I have time I look at the histograph and expose to the right.
Better to overexpose (without blowing highlights) than to underexpose. |
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08/07/2006 03:07:13 AM · #8 |
| When I'm taking real photos (ie no kids or pets) I always use spot metering/manual mode. Even if I get the exposure wrong at least I'm learning and only have myself to blame. I prefer to have the final say on what the exposure is, not Mr Random Nikon Camera Programer. |
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08/07/2006 12:12:05 PM · #9 |
| If I want to emphasize one thing, I'll spot meter on that. If I want to show the whole scene, I'll use evaluative or center weighted spot or partial, depending on what I want to show, and how much of the frame it fills. |
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08/07/2006 12:36:00 PM · #10 |
| I use matrix metering 90 percent of the time. I'm finally getting used to the camera and can spot the other 10 percent of images that need spot metering. Or more likely still use matrix and EV up or down. |
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08/07/2006 01:28:46 PM · #11 |
Originally posted by Megatherian:
Better to overexpose (without blowing highlights) than to underexpose. |
Why?
I've always found it to be better to play to the side of caution and under-expose slightly, than over-expose slightly. Details, toneality and color can be brought back out of the shadows very easily, but once nearing the blow-out levels on the highlights, well they're gone, never to be recovered. |
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08/07/2006 01:32:28 PM · #12 |
Metering? What's that? :-P
That's one of my nit-picks with the 300D - no spot meter, but I can get around that fact with grey cards and a little patience most of the time.
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08/07/2006 01:38:55 PM · #13 |
Spot metering is basically useless unless you are going to use exposure compensation with it. You meter a bright spot and lock in, that spot will be rendered as a neutral gray and the image will be underexposed. Meter a dark spot, lock in, and you get an overexposed image.
R.
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08/07/2006 01:46:15 PM · #14 |
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08/07/2006 02:03:14 PM · #15 |
For me it depends on which lens...
On the 70-200 for the most part, I'm center-weighted metering probably 95% of the time.
On the 10-20 for example, I'm in matrix metering 90% of the time.
Otherwise manual or spot depending on the situation.
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08/07/2006 02:07:00 PM · #16 |
the answer to this is because there is a LOT more data rendered in the highlites than the shadows. so by underexposing, you are only using like 1/3 of the possible data a given scene would render if exposed to the right, just to the point of not clipping the highlights.
Originally posted by BraP:
Why?
I've always found it to be better to play to the side of caution and under-expose slightly, than over-expose slightly. Details, toneality and color can be brought back out of the shadows very easily, but once nearing the blow-out levels on the highlights, well they're gone, never to be recovered. |
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08/07/2006 02:11:57 PM · #17 |
Originally posted by Bear_Music:
Spot metering is basically useless unless you are going to use exposure compensation with it. You meter a bright spot and lock in, that spot will be rendered as a neutral gray and the image will be underexposed. Meter a dark spot, lock in, and you get an overexposed image.
R. |
Bear - what if you try to pick a middle tone in the scene and spot meter off of it? I do that on landscapes. But on things like birds I use spot and compensation depending on if it is a dark bird/light background or light bird/dark background.
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