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07/19/2006 07:26:08 PM · #1 |
OK, when using lighting on the cheap we all go for those halogen work lamps. I see that GE has a quartz bulb that could go in the work lamp and is sold under the "GE Edison" moniker which is supposed to be "cripser". anyway, does anybody know if the color temp is cooler than the halogens?
On a related note, how to people tend to handle the WB when shooting RAW with halogens? Should one just need to dial in the proper temp to get true whites? I find it hard to do by eyeball.
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07/19/2006 07:49:10 PM · #2 |
shoot raw or take your color temp off a piece of white poster board.
Florecent lights have their temp marked on them usually, they use less power and the are a LOT safer that halogen worklamps. |
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07/19/2006 08:02:22 PM · #3 |
shot in RAW and shoot a photo of white paper under the lighting. Then you can use the white paper as a starting point for WB.
When doing portraits, I often have my model hold a grey card also as a point to set levels for midtones.
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07/19/2006 08:16:58 PM · #4 |
I really should start doing a test shot with a white board or a sheet with gradations from white to black. That would help.
I really don't like using the halogens because it only gets stickier when I use a flash. Now you got a mixed spectrum of differing intensity depending on what was exposed to what.
Luckily I don't shoot a lot of models, but I still like some lighting for studio shots of stuff.
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07/19/2006 08:19:28 PM · #5 |
| seriously, consider flourecent. Go to Lowes and you can buy them in a variety of white balances. Not much more than the worklights either. |
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07/20/2006 12:40:59 PM · #6 |
Some "ultra white" paper has a bit of blue added to make it look more white. Its better to use a grey card.
Be careful about flourescents. Some are ok (like Flourex) and some are way off. Its not just the color temperature, its the CRI. For example, one type of flourescent light may have an ok color temp, but may output more green than the sun (or your flash does).
In any case, use only one type of light so that you can easily correct it in PS. |
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07/20/2006 12:44:14 PM · #7 |
Originally posted by DrAchoo:
I really don't like using the halogens because it only gets stickier when I use a flash. Now you got a mixed spectrum of differing intensity depending on what was exposed to what.
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Doc, you're right. Mixed lighting is tough. Having 6500K flash reflecting from a forehead and 3400K halogen coming from the cheeks is tough to correct.
However, if all you use are halogens, you should be ok. But flouresent may be better--if you use enough halogens to give a lot of light, you get a lot of heat, and my trip the circuit breaker. |
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07/20/2006 12:48:09 PM · #8 |
Originally posted by Megatherian:
seriously, consider flourecent. Go to Lowes and you can buy them in a variety of white balances. Not much more than the worklights either. |
Can you get flourecents that are as portable and easy to adjust as the worklights are? Just an off the cuff question. I've not looked at flourecents personally... They certainly would be MUCH cooler to work with! |
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07/20/2006 01:00:21 PM · #9 |
Originally posted by glad2badad:
Originally posted by Megatherian:
seriously, consider fluorescent. Go to Lowes and you can buy them in a variety of white balances. Not much more than the work lights either. |
Can you get fluorescents that are as portable and easy to adjust as the work lights are? Just an off the cuff question. I've not looked at fluorescents personally... They certainly would be MUCH cooler to work with! |
Depend on what you get. Compact fluorescent lights are obviously very portable etc but you'd need quite a few. You can get some curved fluorescent tubes in horseshoe shapes that are a good compromise between the 48" tubes and compact fluorescent.
While it's true the fluorescent may have a slight color cast (depending on which ones you get) - if they have the same color balance rating as your flash you will definitely be a lit better off than mixing flash with halogen. |
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07/20/2006 01:02:57 PM · #10 |
Halogens are notorious for thier heat. I have two twin head sets each producing 500 watts per head. In the winter, I often run them in my shop for heat when I'm out there messing around and can stay pretty darn warm :-)
If you can afford it, I'd reccomend a single head strobe kit to start. B&H has an S&P single head strobe kit for around $175. It'll give you much more ability at a decent price.
Edit to add: Linky
Keep in mind you will need a way to connect:
You can use one of these. Or, use a radio unit.
Message edited by author 2006-07-20 13:08:07.
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07/20/2006 01:14:15 PM · #11 |
Originally posted by fotomann_forever:
Halogens are notorious for thier heat. I have two twin head sets each producing 500 watts per head. In the winter, I often run them in my shop for heat when I'm out there messing around and can stay pretty darn warm :-)
If you can afford it, I'd reccomend a single head strobe kit to start. B&H has an S&P single head strobe kit for around $175. It'll give you much more ability at a decent price.
Edit to add: Linky
Keep in mind you will need a way to connect:
You can use one of these. Or, use a radio unit. |
Some sort of lighting is definitely on my looong list of things I want, but unfortunately is a ways down. I don't do enough studio work to justify it yet.
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