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06/26/2006 04:45:16 PM · #1 |
I may have some Architectural working coming my way and I was curious where I need to look for info and what lenses would be best? Anyone familiar with rates?
I believe we're looking at interior construction shots...before and after ...etc. |
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06/26/2006 04:48:28 PM · #2 |
I believe that Rikki is an architect and may be able to guide you toward the info you are looking for. |
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06/26/2006 07:48:45 PM · #3 |
bump for the Rikki/Night crowd. |
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06/26/2006 07:54:19 PM · #4 |
I've heard tilt and shift lenses are best for that type of work... However I don't have expirience in that field so I can't tell you how much it's necessary, or not for that matter. |
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06/26/2006 07:55:48 PM · #5 |
PM bear--
He did it as a pro, (back in the day)
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06/26/2006 08:11:18 PM · #6 |
Oh hey Steve. Just saw this posting.
As far as lenses are concerned, TS lenses would be a good lens to have. However, these puppies run about $1200 for a 35mm. Multiply that by the D200 crop factor... well you know the drill.
The good thing is that you can now use PS to correct parallax and tilt.
The important thing to remember here is adequate lighting obviously. Will the client be with you when you shoot? Typically, as an architect/designer, I would participate in the shoots. The photographer typically gives me polaroids on the spot so I can see exactly what will come out in the final print.
Choosing the appropriate views is pretty much determined by the designer. If you've been doing this for a while, you'll know what I mean. Choose views that showcase the "design" of the space. Extra-ordinary views and Design elements.
As far as compensation is concerned, I'm not certain but for about $1500 +/- I think it's expected that at least 7-8 shots are developed and post processed. I can ask our marketing department how this works. I'll let you know.
For interior before and after, definitely make sure that the before shots look decent but not good (architecturally and deisgn wise). LOL! You know what I mean.
I'll find out more information here and I'll let you know. When is your shoot?
Cheers,
Rikki
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06/26/2006 08:18:36 PM · #7 |
It may be self-evident, but interiors often require wide angles lenses due to space constraints. I'd look for the 10-22, 17-40 or Nikon equivalent...
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06/26/2006 08:22:24 PM · #8 |
Originally posted by DrAchoo: It may be self-evident, but interiors often require wide angles lenses due to space constraints. I'd look for the 10-22, 17-40 or Nikon equivalent... |
Wide angles aren't necessarily required in interior shoots because the composition is not as wide.
Here's something that may help you.
Check here. Then click on portfolio and click Workplace. As you will see, you don't need an ultra wide lens ;)
Rikki
ETA: Pay attention to the type of shots. What are the shots expressing? It has to be able to tell a story and to show the design intent.
Message edited by author 2006-06-26 20:24:04. |
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06/26/2006 08:42:44 PM · #9 |
If your doing that type of photography and/or are thinking of making a living at it. I would suggest getting a 4 x 5 view camera. Using a regular camera gives the appearance of converging lines on any thing that the camera is parallel to. I know you can fix this in photshop but I am a photographer. not a PS guru. You can always rent the camera and try it out once you figure out how they work there a blast to use.
Kevin |
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06/27/2006 04:09:56 PM · #10 |
I just did some research on Tilt-Shift lenses and I haven't figured out exactly what they do or why they are needed. I have a vague idea but not concrete.
I was wondering if a simple wide-zoom might be an easy start? Outside of amy fisheye and my Nikon kit lens (which I hate) my next widest starts at 28mm. Like DrAchoo suggested 10-22, 17-40? I could use one anyway...
Rikki-That Gensler site has some very nice shots. Are there any other site or names I should look up for reference?
Thanks for all your help. |
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06/27/2006 04:28:21 PM · #11 |
You've probably already checked this one. If not, see what TS lenses does and why "film" photographers prefer it. Since we all shootd digital these days, you can get away without using one.
As long as you have at least an 18mm lens you should be ok. With the crop factor of the D200, that equates to about a 28mm lens on film.
I work for Gensler and we always get project photos done. I wanted to show it to you so that you can see what "we" (as architects and designers) look for. Try the other big firms in architecture and design like HOK, SOM, Interior Architects, WATG (Wimberly Allison Tong and Goo). Check out the magazines at Border's Books specifically Architectural Record. Don't use Architectural Digest! Ick!
What project is this? What type of interiors? Fill me in will ya?
Cheers,
Rikki |
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06/27/2006 04:33:29 PM · #12 |
Originally posted by Rikki: Originally posted by DrAchoo: It may be self-evident, but interiors often require wide angles lenses due to space constraints. I'd look for the 10-22, 17-40 or Nikon equivalent... |
Wide angles aren't necessarily required in interior shoots because the composition is not as wide.
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Perhaps I didn't catch what he was shooting. Wide open spaces like office space and the like will not necessarily need something wide. Remodels of homes or living spaces, I think, will certainly need something wide (not necessarily 10mm, but 17 or 18mm). It gives you more flexibility with your composition.
Not everything is a 250,000 sq foot sports complex Rikki-meister...
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06/27/2006 04:54:36 PM · #13 |
The guy that wants me do do work for him (if he's for real, talk is cheap, as we all know) has a small construction company. From what I understand he does a good deal of remodeling...interior and exterior. I do believe this might have serious legs, that's why I posted.
He does a good deal of work in Manhattan/Westchester doing kitchens, offices and other specialized work too...that's why I think a nice wide angle for tight spaces might be a decent start and then if need be and the money is there, I'll get a Tilt-Shift.
Rikki-I'll look at those sites/companies later tonight. The money is incredible for this type of work. It amazes me. |
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06/27/2006 05:06:55 PM · #14 |
Here are some examples that shows the design intent of the space (really important to capture).
 |
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06/27/2006 05:41:35 PM · #15 |
Disclaimer: this is meant to be humorous and is likely to be true, knowing the individual who relayed it to me. Anyhow...
The architect was holding a pow-wow with the interior designer and the lead engineer concerning the internal aesthetic "feel" that he was after. The conversation was mostly between the architect and the designer, the engineer being an interested observer most of the time.
Anyhow, after much animated conversation the architect and the interior designer were in total agreement as to what they wanted. They turned to the engineer and asked him for his opinion as to both the aesthetics and to how he could realise their vision.
The engineer nodded sagely and stated that he could deliver their vision and also noted that it could be done within the projected budget and timescale. Enthused with the feedback, the architect then asked the engineer what he thought about the aesthetics of the interior.
The engineer - a friend of mine it has to be said - looked first at the architect and then the interior designer, shrugged his shoulders and uttered the immortal phrase:
"It's fine as long as I don't bloody well 'ave to live in it!"
Not relevant but thought it was a fun story. Oh yeah - although I am now considered to be a good Enterprise Architect in the computing sense, I did start out as an aeronautical engineer, which is why you might observe a wry smile as I write this...
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07/08/2006 02:20:30 PM · #16 |
Steve: I finally got a number for how much we typically pay photographers depending on how good they are.
"A typical shoot will cost anywhere between 10 to 17K depending on the quality of photographer."
- Marketing Department
This is shot in film with a medium format. I usually get the prints a month later.
Message edited by author 2006-07-08 14:22:14. |
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07/08/2006 10:17:38 PM · #17 |
Steve, I just now encountered this thread. I have, of course, a wealth of practical experience at this. Feel free to ask away :-)
I'd consider coming down to NYC to assist you for your first shoot if you wished...
Robt.
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07/08/2006 11:33:20 PM · #18 |
Originally posted by Rikki: Steve: I finally got a number for how much we typically pay photographers depending on how good they are.
"A typical shoot will cost anywhere between 10 to 17K depending on the quality of photographer."
- Marketing Department |
So I should easily be able to charge 25k? ;P Thanks for the follow up...I knew the numbers were insane big.
Bear-I can use all the help I can get but the guy that wants me to do the work...if it even happens, owns a small construction company, though he is hooked up with some heavy hitters. I'm still not quitting my day job.....yet??? |
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07/09/2006 12:22:18 PM · #19 |
Originally posted by Rikki: Oh hey Steve. Just saw this posting.
As far as lenses are concerned, TS lenses would be a good lens to have. However, these puppies run about $1200 for a 35mm. Multiply that by the D200 crop factor... well you know the drill.
The good thing is that you can now use PS to correct parallax and tilt.
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PS can be used if you have a wide DOF. If you choose a shallow DOF, you can use the T&S lens to tilt and shift the plane that is in focus. |
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07/09/2006 12:51:12 PM · #20 |
Originally posted by hankk: Originally posted by Rikki: Oh hey Steve. Just saw this posting.
As far as lenses are concerned, TS lenses would be a good lens to have. However, these puppies run about $1200 for a 35mm. Multiply that by the D200 crop factor... well you know the drill.
The good thing is that you can now use PS to correct parallax and tilt.
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PS can be used if you have a wide DOF. If you choose a shallow DOF, you can use the T&S lens to tilt and shift the plane that is in focus. |
In my experience, the "tilt" part of the lens is of marginal use for architectural photography. Occasionally it's nice if you're photographing a long sweep of wall, that's about it.
Extreme WA lenses (10mm, 12mm) can substitute for shift a lot of the time if you can frame a horizontal shot vertically, then crop the foreground out to make the final image horizontal from the top part of the frame.
R.
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07/09/2006 04:50:20 PM · #21 |
Originally posted by pawdrix: I may have some Architectural working coming my way and I was curious where I need to look for info and what lenses would be best? |
This has nothing to do with lenses, but with image editing post processing software.
If you have Photoshop CS2 the "Vanishing Point" filter is incredible for performing angled, perspective cloning and a whole lotta other stuff and is practically tailor made for architectural image editing.
Message edited by author 2006-07-09 16:50:57.
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07/09/2006 06:38:30 PM · #22 |
Originally posted by stdavidson: Originally posted by pawdrix: I may have some Architectural working coming my way and I was curious where I need to look for info and what lenses would be best? |
This has nothing to do with lenses, but with image editing post processing software.
If you have Photoshop CS2 the "Vanishing Point" filter is incredible for performing angled, perspective cloning and a whole lotta other stuff and is practically tailor made for architectural image editing. |
That's something you'd probably steer clear of as a professional architectural photographer, at least as far as it involves altering perspectives within an image. If you mean it's terrific for fixing unavoidable convergence in verticals, that's fine. But when you start monkeying around with the actual geometry of the space, you're creating a fantasy world that doesn't accurately portray the architect's work.
Maybe I've got it wrong, what you are saying; I haven't had the pleasure of trying this tool.
R.
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