PS7 Help - DPChallenge Forums

Nikon AF-S DX Zoom-Nikkor 18-70mm f/3.5-4.5G IF-ED

05/23/2006 07:53:01 PM · #1

I know I ask too many questions, but I need some help again. Can anyone briefly explain how to remove the shadow around her head without making her hair all choppy? I'm trying to help my aunt out with photo's of her new employees for her website and I only had a little tiny room to take the pictures in. I couldn't get her any further away from the wall and since there were no windows I had to use flash. I'd really like to know the actual steps, not just have someone do it for me. That way I'll know for next time. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!@!!
Kelli

rasdub

Nikon D70

05/23/2006 08:04:10 PM · #2

This should help some

//www.dpchallenge.com/forum.php?action=read&FORUM_THREAD_ID=242083&highlight=removing%20shadows

cpanaioti

Canon EOS-40D

Canon EF 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6 DO IS USM

05/23/2006 08:05:00 PM · #3

Originally posted by rasdub:

This should help some

//www.dpchallenge.com/forum.php?action=read&FORUM_THREAD_ID=242083&highlight=removing%20shadows

... as clickable

rasdub

Nikon D70

Nikon AF-S DX Zoom-Nikkor 18-70mm f/3.5-4.5G IF-ED

05/23/2006 08:06:05 PM · #4

Not to highjack this thread, but what html tags do I use to make the link clickable next time?

thegrandwazoo

Nikon D750

Nikon AF-S NIKKOR 24-70mm f/2.8G ED

05/23/2006 08:09:02 PM · #5

[url]
[/url]

or click the second icon from the right above the message window.

Artifacts

Canon EOS-5D Mark II

Canon EF 24-105mm f/4.0L IS

05/23/2006 08:32:56 PM · #6

Originally posted by kdsprog:

I recommend two things:
1-Add hue saturation adjustment layer and slide desaturate slider all the way to the left to reduce yellow color cast.

2-Add fill layer above picture with white (or color of your choice) for a solid background color. This hides everything below the layer.

3-Click add mask button to add layer mask.

4-Select brush and paint with black to allow only your model to show through. The edges are a little tricky to get right, but works about as well as anything and fundamentally easy to apply. You will want to read more on masks for easy ways to build the transition areas smoothly and see them more easily.

Here is my result:

Do I get an introduction now? LOL!

Message edited by author 2006-05-23 20:37:07.

Pentax SMC DA 18-55mm f3.5-5.6 AL WR

05/23/2006 09:17:41 PM · #7

-----to---->

Shadows are not impossible to remove, but the hair details can be tough to get realistic. In this edit, after removing the background stripes and getting an even canvas, I would create a new layer via copy, then used the magic wand to select the offending shadow, including some of her hair, and adjust the brightness, contrast & levels to match the background as close as possible. Then in the layer, adjusted the blending to a lower percentage to see what was under it, then using the eraser tool, slowly erased back in the edges, alternating in opacity & soft vs. hard-edged brush. Back to the layer blending options and adjusted the opacity back up, closely watching the edges to see if I missed any. When happy with the basics, flattened the image. I then created a new layer again via copy, used the lasso and copied a whole section of her hair on the left side, deselected, then pasted it, flipped horizontally, dragged over to the right with the move tool, did a free transform of it and shaped it closer to what her right side looked like, again adjusting the opacity of the new layer so the underlying image could be seen, adjusted it's position, rotation and sclae a bit, erased over the areas I didn't want to be pasted with a soft-edged brush, adjusted opacity back to 100%, moved the pasted section around some more, a little more erasing, then when happy, flattened it. Some color cast adjustments were made and toned down the teeth a bit and used the sharpening tool to sharpen the right side a bit to enhance the hair to look a bit more like a defined edge. In a few areas on top and on upper left, I used the smudge tool to push some hairs back. All in all, took about 10 minutes.
Hope this helps.

Prism

Pentax K-30

05/23/2006 10:13:47 PM · #8

If the photos are for a website, do they need to look like passport photos? If you can go back and retake the shots, what about trying something different, like shots of them at their desk or workstation or going about doing whatever their job is (environmental portrait)? If you can retake the shots but still have to use the same little room, can you bring another light to shine on the wall to reduce the shadow strength? Maybe some of the more experienced photographers on this site could suggest how to remove the shadow with lighting when taking the shot rather than by post-processing.

cpanaioti

Canon EOS-40D

Canon EF 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6 DO IS USM

05/23/2006 11:33:30 PM · #9

Originally posted by rasdub:

Not to highjack this thread, but what html tags do I use to make the link clickable next time?

Just tick the box below the post that says Automatically parse URLs.

05/24/2006 07:21:54 AM · #10

Thanks everyone! You all probably think I'm rude, LOL, I lost my internet connection as soon as I hit "post" last night. I wasn't even sure if this posted. I gave up trying to get back on about 11PM (est). So, I haven't actually tried any of your suggestions yet. I'll be doing that after I drop my son off to school.

stdavidson - her name is Kate and she's a massage therapist.

Prism - Because she's a massage therapist her clients are naked. Also, I'm trying to match up to the pictures taken by the "professional" that she hired to get the rest of the pictures.

Here's a link to her website...
NDulge Salon
They are still working on the site and haven't put up any but the 3 doctors, but all the other employees were taken in the yellow room that the last doctor on that page has for a background (the same in the picture I posted).

05/24/2006 07:43:24 AM · #11

Kelli,
Something that may help for future flash pictures is pretty low-tech:
Get a regular ping-pong ball, cut a rectangular slot in it to fit over the flash head on your camera, slip it on and you have a flash diffuser.
It will cut a lot of glare and ease the shadows a bit too in addition to adding a much softer light overall on the person's face.
Your camera has TTL flash metering, so the exposure should be close, (experiment with flash exposure compensation (-0.6, -0.3, 0, +0.3, +0.6EV) - it may be needed) and the maximum effective distance will be cut back a little.

Edit to add pics (courtesy of dpreview.com)

Message edited by author 2006-05-24 07:51:25.

05/24/2006 08:04:53 AM · #12

Thanks Brad. Do they have to be like the cheap dollar store type?

05/24/2006 08:07:29 AM · #13

From everything I have read here and on other sites, most any plain ping-pong ball works fine.
Even one like:

05/24/2006 08:10:31 AM · #14

Great! I'm going to the dollar store today to pick up a bag full.

05/24/2006 02:38:17 PM · #15

OK, does this look bad? I sent it to the web developer and he sent me back this email...

thanks,
do you have this picture without the clipping. Would you be able to leave the background intact?
if not that's ok

Paul

So, does it?

Canon EF 24-105mm f/4.0L IS

05/24/2006 03:19:15 PM · #16

bump... anyone? BradP? stdavidson?

Artifacts

Canon EOS-5D Mark II

05/24/2006 09:43:48 PM · #17

Originally posted by kdsprog:

bump... anyone? BradP? stdavidson?

Hi Kelli... Looks pretty good to me especially since they are targeted for the web. :)

05/24/2006 10:26:29 PM · #18

Thanks Steve. I thought maybe my monitor was out of calibration again. I couldn't figure out what clipping he was seeing. Plus I think the pictures will display at about thumbnail size, so I couldn't see it being an issue.