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03/17/2006 12:22:05 PM · #1 |
I am more of a landscape photographer, but have begun messing around in the studio. I have a cheap floodlight arrangement that someone gave me many years ago, but it is cumbersome, limiting, and dangerous (I'm worried I'm going to burn down the house one of these days). Frankly, I don't know much about what to look for in studio lights. I've read up on the topic, but there seems to be a variety of approaches and opinions. I've started doing some stock shots (objects) and would like the ability to eventually do portraits and other studio shots. I'm looking for a good balance between low cost and good functionality/flexibility/scalability.
I expect to be purchasing an EOS 30D when they come out. I've looked at flash solutions for this, and I think it might be cost prohibitive. Also, correct me if I'm wrong, but the light output of a flash will not be as much as a stobe setup. Looking at strobes, I found the (Home Studio Kit from SP Systems. Can anyone provide feedack (pros and cons) of this setup. Any alternatives in the same price range that are either cheaper or would function better?
Message edited by author 2006-03-17 12:24:05.
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03/17/2006 12:27:24 PM · #2 |
Also, this SP Systems setup mentioned above has an optical slave cell. Is this better or worse than a synch cord?
It also does not have a "Replaceable Flashtube". What is a flashtube?
Thanks for tolerating my ignorance on this topic.
Message edited by author 2006-03-17 12:27:39.
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03/17/2006 12:45:55 PM · #3 |
Well, You can go the REALLY CHEAP route that I did.
PVC pipe - $26
3 Home Depot clip on lamps - $27
White sheet - $5 (factory second)
Remnant Black velvet - $10
20 minutes of sawing and putting together
Total: $68
Used for such as:
  
Its portable, re-configurable, and easy to manage. Excellent for product and object shots, not so great for anything larger than 2'X2'. |
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03/17/2006 12:48:03 PM · #4 |
I went cheap too. Took the instructions from here:
//www.eyefetch.com/tutorial-light-tent-101.aspx
Nick
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03/17/2006 01:01:23 PM · #5 |
Flash and strobe are the same things. Generally flash refers to the on camera type and strobe to the seperate studio type etc.
get this book as it has a wealth of information - mostly on portraits but the techniqes are useful and he explains studio flash very well.
For flash - you can do the on camera thing - teh best value for the money would be a sigma EF500DG Super and if you want a second get teh ST and save a couple of bucks. These are handy for many things, but for true stuido work where you need/want grids, barndoors, umbrellas, etc you need real strobes.
A pair Alien Bee 400s or Paterson Interfit Stellar 300's are a good start. The Paterson units (from b&h or adorama) are about $100 less expensive, the accessories are less expensive, come with the more powerful modeling lights, and they are just as good but a bit heavier. AB has great customer service and those units are US built if that matters. I got 2 paterson stellar's in 300ws with 2 umbrellas, a 24x24 softbox, 1 barndoor, 1 grid, a set of gels, 2 stands, carry case for it all for $683 delivered. AB equivalent was about $150 more. Feature wise they are pretty identical. Paterson units have an infrared trigger if you want wireless for $40. Ignore the out of stock message - b&h will drop ship from paterson.
You can get less powerful units form paterson, or more powerful from either company but you will do best to start these units. WS - watt second and while all strobes advertise in this unit as an pouput, it is NOT a measure of light output, but of power input. NOT the same thing - the unit's effeciancy and light modifiers play a large role in how much light you really get out. AB400s actaully put out 160ws of light - no, i don't know where the 400 comes from either ;)
replaceble tubes are nice if break one, but are good for 10,000 or su blasts - quite a lot of use really. years worth, 5 or more years worth probably, but ,long enough that replacing it should not be a major purchasing decision.
Any more questions?
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03/17/2006 03:28:58 PM · #6 |
Thanks folks. I like the homemade light box. I have a simple setup for isolated on black, using black felt background (doesn't create shadows), and need to come up with something for isolated on white.
However, my concern is more with the lights themselves. Prof Fate, should I imply from your response that you don't feel the SP Systems Home Studio setup I mentioned is suitable? If I can get away without spending $683 on a startup light setup, I'd prefer it. However, if I'll just outgrow the cheaper setup in the first year (or worse, find it unsuitable from the start), it's not worth it.
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03/17/2006 03:36:37 PM · #7 |
You could look at the chinese brand strobes.
I use YinYan lights, they are sold under different names (oem) around the world.
In Europe they are called Walimex, in Canada Opus.
They are cheap, very reasonable quality and they work...
These are shot with Walimex strobes.
 
And here is one of the sets I have, price 499,99 euro. (They are 420W/s)
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03/17/2006 03:38:06 PM · #8 |
The Sp Systems flashes are very low powered, and you cannot replace the flash tubes. For those 2 reasons alone I would not consider buying those flashes.
Message edited by author 2006-03-17 15:39:00. |
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03/17/2006 03:47:02 PM · #9 |
You get what you pay for , in the way of lighting most certainly.
A friend got a set of those chinese lights off ebay - $220 or so for 2 or 4 lights, stands, bag, softboxes, etc. I was sorta impressed with what all you get for the money - but lots of plastic, VERY VERY lightweight lightstands - just not very durable feeling - this kit
For a light duty home hobbyist they'll probably work fine. If you plan on anything grander, then you'll want a 'real' strobe. The Paterson and AB units can be run all day every day and they will hold up. Neither kit comes with super great stands, but you can get some HD stands from the ebay seller Amvona for a decent price (via auction - their website as the regular prices).
Even the AB ans White Lightening (AB's pro big brother) and probably the Paterson's as well have issues with color/flash duration consistency when set below 1/4 power. The only fix is to run ND gels on the lights or camera and keep the power up - or buy better strobes. This is one reason NOT to buy too big and powerful a stobe and try and run them at low power.
get this kit or this kit and you'llnot outgrow them in a year, or 20 most likely.
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