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03/03/2006 07:29:47 PM · #26 |
I did a shot inside a garage with 4x5 SuperXX film where there was a bare bulb in one corner of the frame and an engine block on its side in a dark corner of the garage. In excess of a 17 stop range. I made a 5 hour exposure and by controlling the development of the film using a water bath I was able to get detail in the writing on the bulb AND of the wall inside the cylinder of the block.
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03/03/2006 07:59:29 PM · #27 |
i think i remember reading the upper range on digital Nikons is 30 & a bit minites --edit:wrong wrong wrong ..& i'm a twit
it's internal timer will roll over & close the shutter
it should be possible to stack them ....
i'd love to do this at "the cottage" sometime, juat have to fight off the mosquitos ...
Message edited by author 2006-03-04 09:46:51. |
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03/03/2006 08:08:37 PM · #28 |
Originally posted by ralphnev:
i think i remember reading the upper range on digital Nikons is 30 & a bit minites -- it's internal timer will roll over & close the shutter
it should be possible to stack them ....
i'd love to do this at "the cottage" sometime, juat have to fight off the mosquitos ... |
Sucks to be a nikon user if that's the case.
I haven't done more than ~10 minute ones yet, but Gordon on here uses a Canon 1D MarkII, and he's posted some very nice long exposures that were longer than 30 minutes. |
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03/03/2006 08:15:00 PM · #29 |
Originally posted by MadMan2k:
Originally posted by ralphnev:
i think i remember reading the upper range on digital Nikons is 30 & a bit minites -- it's internal timer will roll over & close the shutter
it should be possible to stack them ....
i'd love to do this at "the cottage" sometime, juat have to fight off the mosquitos ... |
Sucks to be a nikon user if that's the case.
I haven't done more than ~10 minute ones yet, but Gordon on here uses a Canon 1D MarkII, and he's posted some very nice long exposures that were longer than 30 minutes. |
nah -- i'll just use film ;)
since the lenes all work on the 30yr old manual cameras ..
& also, that way, i don't need to sit next to it for the period, worrying that someone runs off with $$ toy
and look no extention cord ;)
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03/03/2006 08:16:11 PM · #30 |
Here is one of the coolest star shots I've seen - this guy is the master! He also created the first gigapixel image...
Awesome star shot
As for the Nikon's I'm pretty sure they don't have a limit like that.
Jamie |
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03/03/2006 08:25:28 PM · #31 |
Originally posted by ralphnev:
Originally posted by MadMan2k:
Originally posted by ralphnev:
i think i remember reading the upper range on digital Nikons is 30 & a bit minites -- it's internal timer will roll over & close the shutter
it should be possible to stack them ....
i'd love to do this at "the cottage" sometime, juat have to fight off the mosquitos ... |
Sucks to be a nikon user if that's the case.
I haven't done more than ~10 minute ones yet, but Gordon on here uses a Canon 1D MarkII, and he's posted some very nice long exposures that were longer than 30 minutes. |
nah -- i'll just use film ;)
since the lenes all work on the 30yr old manual cameras ..
& also, that way, i don't need to sit next to it for the period, worrying that someone runs off with $$ toy
and look no extention cord ;) |
Yeah, but with film you get to deal with reciprocity failure and that sux!
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03/03/2006 08:39:53 PM · #32 |
Here's a real nice tutorial and some great examples:
//www.danheller.com/star-trails.html
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03/03/2006 08:41:58 PM · #33 |
Here is mine - //photos1.blogger.com/hello/113/9210/800/Feb3-night-sky.jpg. It was a time of 47 minutes. We were camping this winter, but I didn't focus on the North Star so it has straight lines instead of curved. Oh well, live and learn!
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03/03/2006 09:21:12 PM · #34 |
to fix link for m--E
Message edited by author 2006-03-03 21:21:38. |
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03/03/2006 09:58:48 PM · #35 |
| Strangeghost has some GORGEOUS astronomy shots. Check his portfolio under astronomy. He is very knowledgeable in this area. |
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03/03/2006 10:16:30 PM · #36 |
Originally posted by ButterflySis:
Originally posted by biteme:
Originally posted by ButterflySis:
Originally posted by wavelength:
I saw something in Outdoor Photographer that was a 10 hour bulb mode exposure of the moon reflected on a still lake. It was freaking awesome. I think it was a medium format at f35 and some nd filters... |
I remember that one too. It was cool! |
link? :D |
Saw it in the mag...I don't remember which issue. |
It was in the 2005 Outdoor Photographer Annual Landscape issue, page 60 and 61.
The name of the photographer is Richard Hamilton Smith, //www.richardhamiltonsmith.com/rhs.htm.
After looking through his portfolio section, I think he's one of my new fav photogs.
Message edited by author 2006-03-03 22:17:23. |
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03/03/2006 10:16:52 PM · #37 |
As someone else mentioned, it is possible to get software that 'stacks' exposures to allow for longer exposures. It can be a bit fiddly though because you MUST use a remote to avoid moving the camera. It helps keep noise down. You can get several minute exposures out of P&S cameras though. Other benefits can include the ability to overcome light pollution and less chance of the whole shot being ruined for some reason.
Generally with a P&S camera, even if they have a bulb, 30 seconds is the longest exposure possible. The reason is that they all use CCD type sensors which by nature have greatly increased heat buildup over a CMOS type sensor as time progresses.
I would therefore suspect that it is indeed possible for Nikon CCD based cams to have an auto shutdown. It might have something to do with a heat sensor though. I don't know that much about Nikon beyond this.
Do any Nikon users have any experience with longer than 30 minute exposures?
What's the noise like?
Madman2k. If you are getting wobbly star trails, this usually means that your tripod has a tiny bit of shake.
A few things that can cause this are not tightening things up enough on your tripod, not having a heavy enough tripod, soft ground, hard ground and too much moving around (probably the least likely especially if you have a higher end tripod) and wind.
Wind is a serious enemy of really long exposures. It is usually overcome by means of a wind shield or weighting your tripod.
Imagine the shots you could take in the arctic. You could literally get a full circle image with a 24 hour exposure. You'd need a generator or a serious battery pack tho.
Or film.
Message edited by author 2006-03-03 22:18:54. |
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03/03/2006 11:11:27 PM · #38 |
Originally posted by eschelar:
As someone else mentioned, it is possible to get software that 'stacks' exposures to allow for longer exposures. |
e.g. Registax |
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03/04/2006 12:49:31 AM · #39 |
| You astrophotographer types need to check out Jupiter's Red Spot Jr. |
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03/04/2006 07:40:17 AM · #40 |
Thanks for all the links and pics! I am going to have to try this sometime, MAYBE after I get used to even doing 1 minute exposures first! LOL....
I really enjoyed this thread. Thank you.
Rose |
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03/04/2006 09:02:47 AM · #41 |
Cool. I hadn't read about "red, jr." yet. That's my goal now for photographing Jupiter this spring and summer. Here's a shot from about a year ago:
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03/04/2006 09:45:02 AM · #42 |
i'll recant --
i totaly missunderstood what i read
the D200 can have long expoures BUT the noise reduction will give you poor results after 109 minutes 13.5 seconds ...sorry for the confusion !!! |
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03/04/2006 10:25:25 AM · #43 |
Ralphnev, I'd love to see the pics that you took with it.
Try using multiple exposures with RegiStax. You can really take a lot of noise out of the picture by using shorter exposures.
It's my understanding that the noise reduction ruins things not because of the algorithm, but because there is so much heat/noise generated by a powered CCD.
Different sort of beast altogether.
How does it fare with shorter exposures like 30 minutes or 10? |
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