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02/24/2006 01:37:29 PM · #1 |
Here are a few shots from my new camera and I've been having some problems that perhaps if I post, someone can guide me in the right direction.
Here are a few examples: (EDIT: some more examples are further down in the thread)
It is a clear, suuy day here with blue sky and some vibrancy to the colors...not washed out. The colors in the photos are all washed out, and even though not really out of focus, they just seem soft with no detail. Even after I has PS'd them a bit and added sharpness, I don't feel they look good.
Also having trouble getting the exposure correct...even when I just stick it on automatic - things seem to get really washed out.
When I look through the viewfinder, at the bottom is a bar that appears to read the exposure based on the settings. I have been trying to use that as a guide for my settings shooting in manual. I was assuming that centering that so it's not + or - would obtain the best exposure?
Also...is there any way to tell what mode the camera was in when I shot was taken (auto, manual, portrait, etc.?)
This is the first day I've been really somewhat frustrated. Would appreciate any suggestions.
Judy
Message edited by author 2006-02-24 14:56:48. |
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02/24/2006 01:51:15 PM · #2 |
Bump and more info
Here is a link to the gallery where you can see the originals with EXIF data.
I am also having trouble getting any type of close up shot. The two lenses I have are the Tamron 28-80 and Sigma 70-300 4/5.6. I tried swithing the little swith on the lens to "macro" but it won't focus on anything in the foreground - in any mode and in any focusing mode (auto or manual.)
I'll keep trying to figure this stuff out, but any help is appreciated. Thanks. |
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02/24/2006 01:55:53 PM · #3 |
I'm curious to see what advice you get because mine often get that washed out look to them. I know it's me though because it's not every picture. |
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02/24/2006 01:57:37 PM · #4 |
oh as far as what mode the picture was shot in. I get that info from my program it's uploaded to. So if you have a Canon program you should be able to find it there.
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02/24/2006 02:03:12 PM · #5 |
what is the ISO set at?
I just looked back on some shots I took on a bright sunny day and they came out non washed out. The ISO is at 100 and the aperture 1/400sec. And it was shot in the portrait mode.
here it is unedited.
yorktown monument
Message edited by author 2006-02-24 14:06:14. |
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02/24/2006 02:08:49 PM · #6 |
I think that in that first shot you were focusing on the white sculpture thingi in the middle.....so the camera exposed the shot for the white, which threw the exposure off for the darker trees, and similar for the 2nd shot which exposed for the sculpture in the middle and blew the sky details.
My explanation, highly technical.....not!! What time of day were you taking these Judy?
Message edited by author 2006-02-24 14:09:27.
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02/24/2006 02:15:46 PM · #7 |
These were all taken late this morning....maybe around 11:00? |
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02/24/2006 02:18:41 PM · #8 |
Originally posted by suemack: I think that in that first shot you were focusing on the white sculpture thingi in the middle.....so the camera exposed the shot for the white, which threw the exposure off for the darker trees, and similar for the 2nd shot which exposed for the sculpture in the middle and blew the sky details.
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If this is the problem, then you need to use exposure compensation. If you're using it in manual, try choosing a shutterspeed to the - end of your viewfinder exposure guidance thing (i'm sure that is the technical term for it:P). In automatic, set it to -1EV (for example, might be anything between -1/3 or -2.
Or equally, there should be a way on your camera to expose one area of the composition and hold AE lock (or equivalent) before re-composing. This is often the easiest way
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02/24/2006 02:20:43 PM · #9 |
honestly, I don't think it's an exposure problem. I mean, the white sculpture one, the white on the sculpture is almost TOO bright. You would think that if that white threw off the exposure that the rest of the photo would be too dark. It's just no contrast and totally washed out looking color. I guess I'd say I think it's more of a color problem than an exposure problem - if that makes sense. |
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02/24/2006 02:24:18 PM · #10 |
It looks like exposure problems to me.. Maybe practice with spot (area) metering, and meter to different places in the shot and see if you can get good results.
A polarizing filter might help darken the sky a little too(depending on the angle of the sun), or possibly a gradiated ND filter.
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02/24/2006 02:31:56 PM · #11 |
Have you checked to see what your WB is set at? When outside in bright sunlight I put a polarizing filter on my camera to help get the color and keep them from getting washed out. |
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02/24/2006 02:49:04 PM · #12 |
Here are three more examples. These are all shot in straight "auto". The sun is at my back mostly. There detail is terrible and the colors are all dead looking. Is it the lens? These were taken with the Tamron 28-80 3.5/5.6. Surely the lens isn't that bad? The file size is set to maximum (but not raw.)
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02/24/2006 02:58:37 PM · #13 |
The white sculpture itself appears to be overexposed. What metering mode were you using? Since the white area only takes up a small portion of the whole image the camera erred towards the shadows. I suspect the mode was evaluative. If you want to expose for the sculpture either use partial (this is probably best) or center weighted. If using partial dial in a small amount of exposure compensation so the whites are actually white and not grey. Bracket a few shots to see what looks best. |
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02/24/2006 03:03:44 PM · #14 |
Originally posted by cpanaioti: The white sculpture itself appears to be overexposed. What metering mode were you using? Since the white area only takes up a small portion of the whole image the camera erred towards the shadows. I suspect the mode was evaluative. If you want to expose for the sculpture either use partial (this is probably best) or center weighted. If using partial dial in a small amount of exposure compensation so the whites are actually white and not grey. Bracket a few shots to see what looks best. |
Based on the EXIF data, it was "parital" metering mode (but I'm still new to this, so I don't know what that means.) This was shot in auto. Exp. compensation was at "0". |
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02/24/2006 03:09:55 PM · #15 |
Originally posted by jpochard: Originally posted by cpanaioti: The white sculpture itself appears to be overexposed. What metering mode were you using? Since the white area only takes up a small portion of the whole image the camera erred towards the shadows. I suspect the mode was evaluative. If you want to expose for the sculpture either use partial (this is probably best) or center weighted. If using partial dial in a small amount of exposure compensation so the whites are actually white and not grey. Bracket a few shots to see what looks best. |
Based on the EXIF data, it was "parital" metering mode (but I'm still new to this, so I don't know what that means.) This was shot in auto. Exp. compensation was at "0". |
If it was partial then it was using the center focusing point and a little bit more to determine the exposure. It sounds like the meter might be a bit off. With partial I would have expected the sculpure to be underexposed if you didn't use any compensation. The sculpture could be just very reflective which could be throwing the meter off.
If you have access to a hand held light meter or another camera, check what they tell you the exposure should be (aperature and shutter speed). |
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02/24/2006 03:12:46 PM · #16 |
Here is a similar shot, probably with better exposure. Still, the colors and contrast are flat and lifeless. It is NOT a hazy day at all. It's not summer with super greens, but it sure looks a lot better than this. Similar to the other shots of just outside my house that I posted.
*goes back to the manual to read up more about exposure*
Message edited by author 2006-02-24 15:17:27. |
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02/24/2006 03:19:00 PM · #17 |
Since you're shooting jpeg, what are the parameter settings for saturation, contrast etc? The exif may tell you this or you can look in the menu to see which parameter set is being used and what the settings are. |
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02/24/2006 03:25:35 PM · #18 |
Dear Judy,
I have a 10D, too - I love it. You will love yours soon, too, when you get the hang of it.
The trouble you are having now might be the metering mode or it might be the parameters the camera is set to. Many people with SLRs set their parameters so the pictures are soft and not very colorful and prefer to adjust them in Photoshop. SLR pictures often times just aren't as sharp and colorful as Point and Shoot Cameras.
I prefer mine to be more sharp and colorful straight out of camera so I made a set of custom parameters that bumped up the sharpness and saturation to the top.
When using my 10D I like to use the center focus point and use Exposure lock to set the metering on the brightest part of the shot, then you can recompose and frame it up the way you like.
It is hard to get used to using an SLR - when I first got my Rebel, I didn't like it at all!
Sammie |
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02/24/2006 03:29:36 PM · #19 |
Originally posted by cpanaioti: Since you're shooting jpeg, what are the parameter settings for saturation, contrast etc? The exif may tell you this or you can look in the menu to see which parameter set is being used and what the settings are. |
I'm pretty sure it's "standard" for all of them. Although I did switch the color setting on just a couple to see if there was a difference. Adobe RGB and sRGB? Under "color representation" most of them say sRGB and a few say "uncalibrated"? Not sure if that has anything to do with it? |
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02/24/2006 03:32:19 PM · #20 |
By the way....Thank you so much to those of you who are taking the time to talk me through the detective work here and offering encouragement!
I did expect to be frustrated, so even though I AM frustrated, I fully expect things to improve. I'm a persistant person and I know the answer is there...it's just a matter of finding it! :) |
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02/24/2006 03:33:35 PM · #21 |
Originally posted by Sammie: Dear Judy,
I have a 10D, too - I love it. You will love yours soon, too, when you get the hang of it.
The trouble you are having now might be the metering mode or it might be the parameters the camera is set to. Many people with SLRs set their parameters so the pictures are soft and not very colorful and prefer to adjust them in Photoshop. SLR pictures often times just aren't as sharp and colorful as Point and Shoot Cameras.
I prefer mine to be more sharp and colorful straight out of camera so I made a set of custom parameters that bumped up the sharpness and saturation to the top.
When using my 10D I like to use the center focus point and use Exposure lock to set the metering on the brightest part of the shot, then you can recompose and frame it up the way you like.
It is hard to get used to using an SLR - when I first got my Rebel, I didn't like it at all!
Sammie |
Do the parameters I set apply even in auto? |
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02/24/2006 03:36:18 PM · #22 |
Originally posted by jpochard: Do the parameters I set apply even in auto? |
Yes. |
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02/24/2006 03:59:16 PM · #23 |
Okay, I set the parameters for set #1 to all max, except for the color tone which I left in the middle. It seemed to help even the exposure just a bit (less blown out details), but the photo still appears dark and flat to me.
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02/24/2006 04:43:39 PM · #24 |
Dear Judy,
I don't think that is looking too bad at all - if you increase the color saturation in the paramenters it will make it have more depth. Pictures from an SLR very rarely look good until they are edited.
I did a little basic editing on your picture (I hope you don't mind) and here is what it looks like:
I did a bit of levels, increased saturation and a bit of unsharp mask.
When you first get started with an SLR the pictures can look really dull, it was hard for me as I wanted them to look like they do when they come out of a point and shoot.
Sammie |
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02/24/2006 05:04:13 PM · #25 |
That definitely does look better than the out of the camera version. My version was taken with the saturation at it's highest, though.
I thought the photos would have better detail as well, and frankly, I think the Sony had better picture quality. Granted, this is very early, so these are just ramblings and observations from someone who is still on a steep learning curve.
I'm hopefully meeting up with Marjo tomorrow and perhaps she can shed some light on the subject for me as well!
Thanks for all your help. |
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