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02/20/2006 07:54:15 PM · #1 |
Hi everyone!
Our photo club is doing a theme of "Closeup/Macro Photography" and I figured I'd pick all of you experts' brains for some good guidelines for creating successful macro photographs.
So what would you all recommend when approaching taking a macro/closeup photograph? I know that things will obviously depend on subject, equipment and environment but are there things we should keep in mind from the outset? -- people will likely be using a variety of cameras so I don't know that any will have actual macro lenses.
Any hints on how to utilize either staged or natural lighting to better enhance detail, etc? Are there some subjects that would benefit more (or even less) as a macro?
Any ideas/information that I can pass along (and use myself!) is greatly appreciated!
- Sia
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02/20/2006 07:58:29 PM · #2 |
Here is something I had prepared for another occasion:
There are several ways of achieving 1:1 ratio (and even closer)
ΓΆ€ΒΆ macro lens
ΓΆ€ΒΆ close up lens (set of +1, +2, +4, +10)
ΓΆ€ΒΆ reversing rings with lens
ΓΆ€ΒΆ extension tubes
To take good macro photographs, you need:
ΓΆ€ΒΆ the correct equipment (see product photography)
ΓΆ€ΒΆ excellent lighting
ΓΆ€ΒΆ appropriate backgrounds (such as cardboard gently curved behind the subject)
ΓΆ€ΒΆ correct camera settings
There are a few difficulties/issues with macro photography:
ΓΆ€ΒΆ the inherently small DOF
ΓΆ€ΒΆ the difficulty of lighting without expensive equipment like ring flashes
ΓΆ€ΒΆ having to get VERY close to your subject (which at times bites or stings)
ΓΆ€ΒΆ getting the focus right ΓΆ€“ there is NO room for error
The small DOF can pose a real problem. Sometimes you can compensate somewhat by:
ΓΆ€ΒΆ backing off and then later on cropping to get close
ΓΆ€ΒΆ using a smaller aperture (VERY good lighting makes this possible)
ΓΆ€ΒΆ arranging your objects on the same plane
ΓΆ€ΒΆ Focus on something in the middle of the scene (front to back) since in close-ups, depth of field is half in front and half behind the plane of critical focus.
ΓΆ€ΒΆ lining up flat things (like stamps) so that the lens is directly parallel to it
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02/20/2006 08:08:37 PM · #3 |
Originally posted by Beetle:
Here is something I had prepared for another occasion:
ΓΆ€ΒΆ appropriate backgrounds (such as cardboard gently curved behind the subject)
ΓΆ€ΒΆ correct camera settings |
That list is an excellent start for us! Thank you. I did have a question about these two items if you wouldn't mind expanding on it.
Why do you suggest a curved surface for the background? Is that to help reflect more light on the subject thus improving focusing issues or is there another reason?
Also, when determining the correct camera settings is this mostly a general, changes with the situation and typical of ALL photography sort of thing or are there some settings (besides that macro setting found on many cameras which I personally haven't found makes much difference) that are inherently better for macro photography?
What I'm thinking as I ask this is something like, "its better in many cases to have your exposure set at +.50 or +1.0 when doing macro work" type settings. Obviously that was just thrown out there for an example.
Again, thank you, that list gives us areas we can look even further into during our meeting and will hopefully help us out in the field!
- Sia
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02/20/2006 08:10:51 PM · #4 |
I only have a little p&s camera, but it has a good macro setting. All of those manual settings and lenses mean very little to me, but here's what I try to keep in mind.
-Put the camera on the timer... helps to cut down on the blur that happens when I push the shutter.
-If I can't seem to get the camera to autofocus on the subject due to poor lighting (can't use a flash that close up) I'll focus on something else the same distance away then move the camera to the subject.
-Take as many shots as possible. When I look once I get home, I usually only find 1 or 2 with the dof I was hoping for.
Oh, and like Beetle said about things that bite and sting... I just try to stay back a little further from those! :P |
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02/20/2006 08:18:04 PM · #5 |
re background:
a curved piece of cardboard for very small objects means that the background is seamless, there is no line to distract and drag viewers attention away from the subject. It is a very neat, professional look.
Camera settings:
Often it means doing everything you can to get a smaller aperture to increase your DOF. Checking your ISO - you may be able to go to higher ISO (again to help with the DOF). Check your white balance, perhaps use a custom setting to get it right.
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02/20/2006 08:20:37 PM · #6 |
Originally posted by kteach:
If I can't seem to get the camera to autofocus on the subject due to poor lighting (can't use a flash that close up) I'll focus on something else the same distance away then move the camera to the subject.
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Do you have a manual setting for focus?
It is best to use manual focus, then move the camera back and forth to fine tune. |
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02/20/2006 08:26:08 PM · #7 |
Keep in mind that depth of field is pretty small with closeup photography, even with small aperatures. This isn't "bad", but something you have to consider when composing your photographs: be sure to focus on what you want to be the center of interest.
Use a tripod if you possibly can. Even a slight movement after your camera locks focus will mess up the photo. This is different from camera shake (movement while the shutter is open making everything blurry), which is also important to prevent. Some cameras have a mode that keeps moving subjects focused (try "sports" mode) which can help prevent this, but watch out for getting closer to the subject than you camera can focus. I've found luck pressing the shutter all the way to take the picture instead of the normal practice of keeping it pressed halfway down during final composing or waiting fo the right moment; that should make the camera take the picture as soon as it gets focused, minimizing the chance that camera movement will change the focus point. A corollary is to avoid reframing after you've focused; with a narrow DOF the photo will rarely be correctly focused.
Watch out for wind, which can cause both motion blur and mess up the focus. Be patient, and wait for a moment of calm (which for me tends to happen just after I've gotten tired of holding an awkward position and give up!).
Lighting can be difficult with extreme closeups; the camera gets in the way. To bring out the textures of your subject, use a bright key light on one side with a dimmer fill light on the other side to reduce shadows and give a more natural look. |
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02/20/2006 08:30:15 PM · #8 |
Originally posted by Beetle:
Originally posted by kteach:
If I can't seem to get the camera to autofocus on the subject due to poor lighting (can't use a flash that close up) I'll focus on something else the same distance away then move the camera to the subject.
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Do you have a manual setting for focus?
It is best to use manual focus, then move the camera back and forth to fine tune. |
I can pick where on the screen I want it to focus, but not in the macro setting. I have to focus right in the center of the screen and then recompose the shot. Reason #241 why I need a better camera. :P |
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02/20/2006 08:51:52 PM · #9 |
On the hardware side for those who want to do macro but don't want to invest in a dedicated macro lens, Canon makes a pretty good close up filter, the Canon 500D. It's a high quality double element filter. When mounted on a good telephoto or zoom lens, 200mm or 300mm, it give good magnification and very decent results. I have some photo in my portfolio. I am using it on a Nikkor 80-200mm and it work greats. If you need 77mm close up filter, this Canon filter is pretty much the only choice since Nikon doesn't make their 6T filter in that size.
On great thing with that filter, the focusing distance is about 20 inches, so it's much easier to light the subject and it's a safer distance for dangerous or easily scared bugs.
Another good thing with such filters, unlike extension tube, you retain autofocus and all since the lens is mounted normally on the camera body. Of course it's often best to manually focus when doing macro, but it can be handy at times. |
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