first attempt at studio style shooting

02/04/2006 03:45:59 PM · #1

Hi....I took this just last month. It's my first attempt at studio style shooting. I don't have any lighting equipment or backdrops so I just hung a white sheet behind him and used a halogen lamp to light the side of his face. Any comments or thoughts are greatly appreciated.

Message edited by author 2006-02-04 16:22:02.

Nikon AF-S DX NIKKOR 18-200mm f/3.5-5.6G ED VR II

02/04/2006 03:59:22 PM · #2

anyone?

Refwhett

Nikon D300

02/04/2006 04:06:46 PM · #3

left you a comment. Michael

Canon EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS USM

02/04/2006 04:22:32 PM · #4

i uploaded a second photo

Message edited by author 2006-02-04 16:22:48.

JRalston

Canon EOS-20D

02/04/2006 05:02:25 PM · #5

Well, the biggest thing I notice is the photoshop work to make the background white. There is a haze around the edges that is a big detractor. It is VERY HARD.....ok, I am going to say just about impossible to make a background completely white without more than 1 light. (at least from my trials..lol)

Next, I personally prefer a little bit larger catchlight to make the eyes come alive.

Where did you position the light? I (again) personally prefer a little more contrast between light and dark on the face. This would simply be done by moving the light more to the right of your subject. The typical position for your mainlight is 45 degrees from your subject. This can vary, though, depending on the effect you want. You can use a piece of mattboard or even a reflective winshield visor as a fill when working with one light. This can help fill in any harsh shadows.

Hope that helps some :) Here is a shot with that contrast I was talking about: Charmer It shows what the catchlight can do for the eyes. On this shot, however, I probably should have had a little more fill as the left side is a bit dark. Nevertheless, it works :)

Good luck! Keep practicing! I HIGHLY recommend going to a fabric store and picking yourself up a length of black velvet or something. Black backgrounds are SOOOOOOO much easier to learn lighting with. Worklights work great as well. This shot : Cradlewas taken using worklights from Lowes. I have several shots on there I took with worklights :)

I am still learning the craft myself....but this was the best feedback I could offer.

Jenn

Canon EF 24-70mm f/2.8L USM

02/04/2006 11:52:22 PM · #6

anyone else?

metoecus

Canon EOS-10D

02/05/2006 12:43:58 AM · #7

In addition to the feedback you've already been given:

In both of the photos you've cropped off the top of the model's head. Since the top of one's head doesn't really provide a lot of information this isn't necessarily a problem, but it's going to influence the feel of the image, so make sure that you're framing out the model's head for a reason. In the case of the second photo I think that the crop gives the image a more intimate feeling, while on the first one it just seems a little odd.

Another framing issue to keep in mind is the orientation of the camera. Both of these images are shot horizontally (landscape orientation) rather than vertically (portrait orientation). Because the model's gaze is conspicuously directed toward something off camera on stage right, leaving more negative space on the horizontal emphasizes his gaze. In this case the orientation seems to complement the composition.

On my monitor I can see some jpeg artifacts in your model's skin. This may have been because of your camera settings, because of the compression level selected when you saved for web, or because you saved your files multiple times during the editing process.

This is definitely a strong start to your studio work. I look forward to seeing your work in the future.

Man_Called_Horse

Canon EOS-300D Rebel

02/05/2006 12:54:53 AM · #8

I worked on "Gia".

The DP loved to take one light and use it as a fill light, usually bouncing it onto a 4x4 foamcore card.

From there, he took other cards, and even mirrors to catch the light and from the same source to give other highlights for the key and back light.

He did this technique not often, but it was pretty cool, and the photography was excellent.

One light, no waiting is what we called it.

The key light in both are a bit harsh. Netting, or bouncing the light will help. I see a little hint of top light, but why did you frame so tight, or crop the way you did?

I see artifacts as well, and I agree that your attempt to PS your bg is too much. Sometimes you just have to tweek instead of get rid of.

The shadow in the dressed version is a bit distracting, a fill light would be good for that, or just adjust your key.

Maybe add a light from behind the white sheet, makeing it warmer, and giveing a bit of something for your subject. Just a thought.

It's a great attempt. Keep up the good work.

One last thing, Home Depot is the poor mans lighting source.

cools98

Canon EOS R5 Mark II

Canon RF 24-105mm f/4.0L IS USM

02/05/2006 01:26:34 AM · #9

Originally posted by JRalston:

I personally prefer a little bit larger catchlight to make the eyes come alive.

HOW do you make the cathlight larger in the eyes? Do you need a larger umbrella or soft box for the strobe lighting, or what?

Scott

JRalston

Canon EOS-20D

Canon EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS USM

02/05/2006 01:34:03 AM · #10

Originally posted by traquino98:

Originally posted by JRalston:
I personally prefer a little bit larger catchlight to make the eyes come alive.

HOW do you make the cathlight larger in the eyes? Do you need a larger umbrella or soft box for the strobe lighting, or what?

Scott

That would do the trick as well as moving the light closer to the subject. As I mentioned, it's a personal preference :)

Man_Called_Horse

Canon EOS-300D Rebel

02/05/2006 01:34:18 AM · #11

Originally posted by traquino98:

One cool way to make the eyes come alive is to have a ring base of some sort, like the top of a small wooden cable spool, or a cut reinforced foam core ring, or a metal ring (grounded). Something that is circular, with a hole in the middle, like a dohnut.

Add light bulb recepticles, or a crap load of white xmas lights, around the flat part of the ring.

The light is then positioned as a key light, the model is fairly close to the ring. Placing the camera inside the hole of the ring, if you do it correctly, you should see round lit circles on the pupil of the eye.

Alot of music videos do this.

Or you can spend alot of money on a prebuilt "Diva" light built by Kino Flo and it will do the same thing.