| Author | Thread |
|
|
01/14/2006 07:07:58 PM · #1 |
I'm shooting B+W film for a class I'm taking and want to implement the zone system now that I know how to use it. To do it well I know I need a spot meter so I can meter the shadows/highlights and evaluate the subject brightness range, but looking around they all cost upwards of 500$ and this is not in my budget, in fact I have no budget. I was wondering if I could use the spot meter function from my D70 for this or is it calibrated differently than a meter for a film camera. I would think all camera meters would be calibrated the same regardless of if they're in a film camera or digital camera so we would have standardization. Am I right or wrong?
Message edited by author 2006-01-14 21:27:09. |
|
|
|
01/14/2006 07:20:12 PM · #2 |
| The D70 spot metering combined, of course, with manual exposure mode gives you the equivalent of a spot meter. |
|
|
|
01/14/2006 07:39:47 PM · #3 |
you can find spot meters for less than 500$, like sekonic l-308 or l-358.
but yeah the d70 spot meter will work too. |
|
|
|
01/14/2006 08:29:13 PM · #4 |
I use spot metering with my d70 very often. It's very acurate.
|
|
|
|
01/14/2006 09:26:10 PM · #5 |
Edit
I didn't mention that I'm shooting black and white film. I was wondering if I could spot meter with my d70 to figure out the Subject brightness range, and use this information to set the proper exposure on my film Nikon. |
|
|
|
01/15/2006 12:46:54 AM · #6 |
It should be fine. Part of using the zone system is familiarizing yourself with the differences in your system. Meter a known target (grey card), take a few test shots at different EV compensations and develop normally. This should tell you if you need to make adjustments.
edited to add:
To answer your question more completely, the cameras should be calibrated the same because the quality of light are not changed when you change what records it. That is, the aperture is still the same size and the shutter still opens the same amount of time (for the same settings) and the same amount of light still gets in as a result.
The meter will calculate the exposure value (EV) of the scene -- although most will perform the calculations to give the EV in terms of the equivalent exposure settings (aperture, shutter and ISO). The light is defined as being at 0 (zero) EV with aperture of F1, shutter speed of 1 second and ISO 100. Each increase of 1 stop adds 1 to the EV and each decrease of 1 stop subtracts 1 from the EV. This is the standard, and all modern meters will adhere to it. There may be some slight differences, but they should be minor.
David
Message edited by author 2006-01-15 01:00:44.
|
|
|
|
01/15/2006 12:56:20 AM · #7 |
I'm using the Nikon F90 with b&w negative film and the Nikon D70 for digital, and I have taken a few test shots to compare the light metering in both cameras at all 3 positions (matrix, spot, center weight) and they are very close in parameters and results.
The D70 is 1/2 stop over-exposed then the F90. (i.e. the D70 requires 1/2 stop more light into the same scene and thus it's photos turn 1/2 over exposed compared to the film)
I don't know which film cam you are using, but in any case you can definately use the D70 spot meter but if the results are really important to you in maximum accuracy - you must do some test shots first to determine the right parameters. |
|
Home -
Challenges -
Community -
League -
Photos -
Cameras -
Lenses -
Learn -
Help -
Terms of Use -
Privacy -
Top ^
DPChallenge, and website content and design, Copyright © 2001-2025 Challenging Technologies, LLC.
All digital photo copyrights belong to the photographers and may not be used without permission.
Current Server Time: 09/22/2025 01:12:31 PM EDT.
