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12/03/2005 08:46:11 PM · #26 |
Originally posted by printer4u:
Set mode to to "A" (apeture priority). Then the camera will calculate the correct exposure based on the f-stop you choose in order to get the depth of field you desire. |
The light meter can be fooled easily in low-light situations such as this. IMO the OP would be much better off actually setting the shutter speed himself.
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12/03/2005 09:02:50 PM · #27 |
Originally posted by justin_hewlett:
Originally posted by printer4u:
Set mode to to "A" (apeture priority). Then the camera will calculate the correct exposure based on the f-stop you choose in order to get the depth of field you desire. |
The light meter can be fooled easily in low-light situations such as this. IMO the OP would be much better off actually setting the shutter speed himself. |
I suppose this is true. I would use matrix metering and apeture priority to at least arrive at a starting point, then adjust accordingly by switching to manual mode for more control.
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12/03/2005 09:04:41 PM · #28 |
raiderboz, these settings will get you started then you can play with them to get the look you want.
Use the M setting, giving you full control over shutter speed and aperture.
Using the index finger wheel (in front of the shutter release button) set it to about f6.3.
Using the thumb wheel (right above the memory card door) set it to 10" to get a 10 second exposure.
Set up on a tripod or other stable surface, compose and focus the shot in manual focus mode.
Holding in the button with the squares on it rotate the thumb wheel until you see a clock on the top LCD.
Press the shutter release button and stand back and wait for it to fire.
When you see the picture in the back LCD, use the round selector with the four arrows, pushing it repeatedly right or left until you see the histogram.
If the histogram is too far to the left, use the thumb wheel to decrease the shutter speed (longer time). Conversely, if it is too far to the right, increase the shutter speed (shorter time).
Just play with it for a while and you'll get the hang of it.
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12/03/2005 09:56:57 PM · #29 |
| If you have a palm pilot or a pocket PC you can get Omniremote for it and control your camera that way too. Also you can use a laptop and Nikon Capture for long shutter speeds. I've used both before I got my remote. Did some fun night sky time lapse photography with the laptop too. |
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12/03/2005 11:45:26 PM · #30 |
Originally posted by megatherian:
If you have a palm pilot or a pocket PC you can get Omniremote for it and control your camera that way too. Also you can use a laptop and Nikon Capture for long shutter speeds. I've used both before I got my remote. Did some fun night sky time lapse photography with the laptop too. |
If you don't have a remote, for anything less than bulb (usually 30"), you can use the self timer, in most circumstances.
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12/03/2005 11:59:49 PM · #31 |
| Try looking through the manual a bit. I haven't seen a question here that isn't likely to be addressed there. |
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12/04/2005 12:43:12 AM · #32 |
Originally posted by alansfreed:
Originally posted by nsbca7:
Noise reduction should not be used unless it is needed. Under normal circumstances having noise reduction turned on will soften an image. |
Can you show me documentation or other proof of this (particularly for images shot under 1/2 a second)? I've always been under the impression that the Long Exposure Noise Reduction would have no effect unless the shot was exposed for a certain length of time... like 1/2 second-ish. |
Noise reduction will NOT make an image soft. Lets say that you take a picture for 5 seconds. The camera will close the shutter when the picture is taken and record the same amount of time (5 sec in this case) with NO LIGHT at all and use the image to see any Hot or dead pixels. It will then FIX the dead or hot pixels in the image making a MUCH cleaner image. The only downside is that the shot we just took of 5 seconds took 5 more seconds to process. Not bad but when you leave the shutter open for 20 minutes and then have to wait 20 minutes before you can do anything with your camera....well, the image quality is still worth it...BUT FRUSTRATING!
It has absolutely no effect on sharpness. Hope this helps.
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12/04/2005 03:57:24 AM · #33 |
Derf, thanks for telling this! I always thought the noise reduction in-camera was doing just the same as Neat Image or Noise Ninja. This sure comes in handy.
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12/05/2005 08:55:30 AM · #34 |
Okay, I turned it on, seems like the camera only uses it after about 20 seconds. I shot in bulb mode in complete darkness, painting with light.
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12/05/2005 09:30:54 AM · #35 |
Originally posted by gloda:
Okay, I turned it on, seems like the camera only uses it after about 20 seconds. I shot in bulb mode in complete darkness, painting with light. |
I believe some cameras allow you to turn on such "dark frame subtraction" for any shot, though not any of my cameras! |
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12/05/2005 09:45:33 AM · #36 |
Originally posted by printer4u:
Set mode to to "A" (apeture priority). Then the camera will calculate the correct exposure based on the f-stop you choose in order to get the depth of field you desire. |
Agree.
Also there is a selection on your dial that indicates night portraits. That is another option. However, I typically use aperature priority as stated above. Tri-pod mounted of course. Fast glass helps.
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12/05/2005 09:59:10 AM · #37 |
QUESTION: What about shooting stars?
I understand the sky moves. So how many seconds of exposure should a shot of the night sky be in order to capture the stars? |
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12/05/2005 10:02:05 AM · #38 |
Originally posted by theSaj:
QUESTION: What about shooting stars?
I understand the sky moves. So how many seconds of exposure should a shot of the night sky be in order to capture the stars? |
You can see the movement of the stars or earth rotation in as little a 15" shutter speed.
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12/05/2005 10:10:06 AM · #39 |
| Speaking of Long Exposure Noise Reduction... any guesses, what shutter speeds will be considered 'long exposure'? |
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12/05/2005 07:42:21 PM · #40 |
Originally posted by Didymus:
Speaking of Long Exposure Noise Reduction... any guesses, what shutter speeds will be considered 'long exposure'? |
It depends on the camera...My rebel XT will use noise reduction for 30
seconds or more OR if the ISO is set to 1600.
My old Olympus was anything over 1 second.
It is really dependant on the camera, camera maker and how bad the
noise on the CCD or CMOS is. Take the longest exposure you can without
using bulb and then do it again without nose reduction....prepare to be
amazed.
Here are some stars taken with a 2 minute exposure with noise reduction on
//fromtheflightdeck.com/temp/news12/PhotoThread/IMG_7183.jpg
Message edited by karmat - links or thumbnails, please. |
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12/05/2005 10:14:29 PM · #41 |
In bulb mode, how do you know how long to leave the shutter open?
Guessing gets old with 5 minute exposures. |
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12/05/2005 10:30:13 PM · #42 |
LMAO... this thread is funny.. a guy asked a couple of simple questions and now he's getting ALL the technical aspects and options about his camera. He's prolly wondering what the heck you guys are all talking about. I guess getting a million confusing awnsers is better than getting none at all..:)
Anyways.. I just thought it was funny, you guys make me laugh. |
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12/05/2005 11:56:31 PM · #43 |
Originally posted by singe:
In bulb mode, how do you know how long to leave the shutter open?
Guessing gets old with 5 minute exposures. |
Mine way is not correct....but this works for me
Bump up your ISO all the way up....we will use 400ISO
Open up your lens...lets say f-3.5
lets say your camera want to take the picture at 5 seconds
Bump the ISO down to 200 and change the camera to 10 seconds
then 100 20 seconds
then go from f 3.5 skip4.0 and stop at 4.5 double the time to 40 seconds
then go from f 4.5 skip 5.0 and stop at 5.6 double the time to 80 seconds
See the pattern? Take a quick shot at High ISO wide apature and you can figure the rest out...
if you take a shot this ISO 100 at F-22, I would get 560 seconds or over 9 minutes!!! I would set my watch to 8 and underexpose just a bit....the F/22 will get you a nice star type pattern on the lights.
Star pattern on lights from closing the apature
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