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11/16/2005 04:50:38 PM · #26 |
From a Realtor's standpoint, it is true that the textured ceilings are, in our area anyway, undesirable. No one wants it because it is difficult to clean, paint and maintain - plus a lot of people used it to try and cover up problems.
Good luck with your project! We had gorgeous crown moulding in my living room and dining room at our old house. I'd say it was a good 8" and a real focal point. It had been painted white for many years and I didn't have the energy to think about refinishing it. In some places, it had pulled away from the ceiling as well. I left it all in place, but clean and sanded it lightly, then filled the gaps and sanded that. I then painted the walls and ceilings the same taupe type color and all the trim white. Having the ceiling the same color as the walls really made that white trim stand out and it looked great!
Have fun! |
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11/16/2005 04:54:01 PM · #27 |
Very sleek 'n' sexy bathroom. Well done!
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11/16/2005 05:39:28 PM · #28 |
Mike
After being in the construction business for over 20 years this is how I would do the job .
First it appears from the photo that you have a prefinished cove moulding more than likely it will be MDF and it will not be easy to take it off and get it to fit the same way again .The ceiling is called a Crows foot design , looks like the texture was done first and the cove added on top of the texture which would leave uneven gaps along the flat edge of the cove on the ceiling side . I would run a bead of latex paintiable caulking on the ceiling side of the cove. Keep the nozzle of the caulking tube small and cut on 45,run a small bead along the edge then dip your finger in water and smooth it out the best that you can ,any extra just wipe it of with a wet sponge . Then I would use painters tape about 2 inch wide and mask off the flat side of the ceiling cove ,just get as close to the new bead of caulking ,but stay on the moulding it self .Then take some light weight plastic 2 mm would work just fine and stick it to the tape let it hang down as far it will go down the wall use a few thumb tacks to tack the plastic to the wall so it won\'t fall of when you are painting the ceiling . Use a flat oil base paint so it will not go yellow again ,rent a airless sprayer and spray it 3 times it should not take more than 5 or 10 minutes to spray the ceiling well worth the money for the rental of the sprayer IMO.It would be very hard to roll that type of texture . After you are done painting the ceiling strip the plastic and tape off the moulding and then paint your walls Latex paint is ok for the walls cut as close as you can to the wall side edge of the moulding you can use a thin piece of cardboard or something like that to keep the paint off of the cove. after the walls dry run a very small bead of white caulking along the bottom edge of the cove on the wall side and clean it with your wet finger, wash your prefinshed moulding and you should have nice straight lines with white moulding and colored walls and ceiling .
I hope this is some help to you .
Have fun
Message edited by author 2005-11-16 17:43:09. |
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11/16/2005 06:06:11 PM · #29 |
| Paint the crown moulding first...then tape the crown mold off and paint the ceiling covering any little mistakes. |
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11/17/2005 02:12:34 PM · #30 |
Greetings,
To all of those who replied, 28 responses in less than 24hrs (WOW!), thanks, It never ceases to amaze me what a wealth of knowledge exists here in the DPC community, nor how willing folks are to share it!
Randod300, I believe your right, the ceiling was done first, what is MDF? The trim/moulding appears to be wood....
Some more info, we have decided that for now, the moulding / trim will be painted the same color as the rest of the trim in the bathroom, we really like the idea of using a piece of cardboard or something to protect the ceiling from stray paint, and taping the bottom edge.
We're under a bit of a time constraint (inlaws coming for thanksgiving dinner) to get the bathroom painted, so we're gonna do the trim, paint the walls, and then go back and deal with the ceiling after Thanksgiving. At this point were leaning towards scraping them down and then caulking the seams and painting it! We had not realized that you could scrape off this "crows foot" stuff, how hard to come off is it? Every room in the house has it (UGHHH!) and we are probably going to end up removing it from all of them eventually, not an easy task I'm thinking with 10ft ceilings (or more in one room).
Thanks again for everyones help!
Mike
//www.mikefairbanks.com
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11/17/2005 02:23:57 PM · #31 |
Originally posted by mfairbanks:
Randod300, I believe your right, the ceiling was done first, what is MDF? The trim/moulding appears to be wood....
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Medium Density Fiberboard = Fake Wood. It could also be some other type of resin material. Judging by the way the corner looks, it seems to be one of these types of materials and will not come down without breaking.
Originally posted by mfairbanks:
At this point were leaning towards scraping them down and then caulking the seams and painting it! We had not realized that you could scrape off this "crows foot" stuff, how hard to come off is it? Every room in the house has it (UGHHH!) and we are probably going to end up removing it from all of them eventually, not an easy task
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It's pretty time consuming and VERY messy.
Originally posted by mfairbanks:
I'm thinking with 10ft ceilings (or more in one room).
Thanks again for everyones help!
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How old is the house? If it's a very old house, you may be dealing with plaster which is a horse of a different color. From the looks of things I doubt it's plaster, but the 10ft ceilings have me wondering.
Message edited by author 2005-11-17 14:24:32.
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11/17/2005 04:00:57 PM · #32 |
how on earth could i have missed a home improvement thread?! the horror!
i certainly would not take down the moulding. you'll inevitably break it, and putting up crown moulding was the biggest bitch of a project i have EVER done on my house (and i've gutted more than one room).
instead of taping off the ceiling, go look in the paint dept. at the home depot or wherever. they sell a thin, flat piece of metal that's about 20" long and has a plastic grip. you just press it up against the ceiling and paint up next to it. it's light enough that it won't make your arms tired hanging it over your head and will protect the ceiling from your trim paint (as long as you don't go nuts slapping it on). should go really quickly.
and if we're going to bitch about ceilings: get this. my house was built in 1903. not only was the plaster cracked and stained, many of the ceilings were covered with up to 3 (no exaggeration) layers of WALLPAPER. (wallpapering ceilings was a common practice in victorian days.) i ended up just paying someone to come in and put 1/4" drywall over all of the ceilings in the house. after scraping the 6 layers of wallpaper off of most of the walls, i can tell you that it was the best money i ever spent. scraping a popcorn ceiling would be cake compared to scraping wallpaper off. yeesh.
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11/17/2005 04:12:29 PM · #33 |
Originally posted by muckpond:
i certainly would not take down the moulding. you'll inevitably break it, and putting up crown moulding was the biggest bitch of a project i have EVER done on my house (and i've gutted more than one room). |
Nah... It's not THAT difficult to put up. As long as you have a GOOD compound miter saw, it's actually pretty simple to do. Of course, buy more than you need, because you WILL make a couple of erroneous cuts in the beginning, but once you get the hang of it, it goes pretty smoothly.
Edit to add:
Besides, look at the quality of what's there. With a minimal amount of practice, Mike could certainly do a better job.
Originally posted by muckpond:
my house was built in 1903. not only was the plaster cracked and stained, many of the ceilings were covered with up to 3 (no exaggeration) layers of WALLPAPER. (wallpapering ceilings was a common practice in victorian days.) i ended up just paying someone to come in and put 1/4" drywall over all of the ceilings in the house |
Yeah, with plaster that is pretty much the only way to fix the problem economically. We did that in my old house... Gave my wife quite the headache hehehe (see earlier post)!
Message edited by author 2005-11-17 16:17:56.
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11/17/2005 04:16:14 PM · #34 |
If you were a customer of mine, I'd probably recommend removing the moulding and covering the ceiling with a fresh layer of drywall. Then I'd finish it smooth. Textured finishes are always in style. Unfortunately, the style always changes. I've never looked at a good smooth ceiling and thought "Oh, that's tacky". And Lee is right, it could be plaster.
Where we work, you can have drywall professionally hung and finished for between $1.00 and $1.75 per SF. If you don't know how to install trim, you can buy and paint it yourself, and have it professionally installed rather inexpensively, as well.
By the time you scrape, cuss, repair, cuss, repair more, cuss more and paint, you could have had it done by a pro. The question is "How much is your time worth?"
Muckpond, I was going to reference your home-improvement site, but I see you've beat me to it!
Message edited by author 2005-11-17 16:17:04. |
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11/17/2005 04:30:11 PM · #35 |
Looking at the shot again it sure is a nice smooth color coat for such lousy jointing, so mabey it isn't MDF or pine stock. Looks to me like EPS (extruded poly-styrene) given the lovely gloss it has. If it is it won't come down in one peice and it won't take any paint you can get in a home depot.
As to the issue of painting oil over latex, yes it can be done if you de-gloss it well enough, and that means sanding with steel wool as the chemical solutions don't rough up the latex surface deeply enough. It will grip but due to incompatibility in the ways they move in reaction to heat and moisture they just don't stick to each other well enough, and are prone to either "orange peel" that is make a dimpled surface that is not smooth enough, or "aligator" that is to shrink as it dries and lacking good adhesion pull back into little islands of paint, a result much loved my craft stores. Latex over oil is much worse, with the latex not adhearing at all, comming off in strips when it gets rough treatment. |
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11/17/2005 05:06:00 PM · #36 |
what is MDF? The trim/moulding appears to be wood..
MDF is like saw dust and glue mixture and then it is formed into cove moulding ,then covered with a paper . By the way the nail heads have swelled and rusted leads me to belive this is the case here .Painting that cove might be more trouble than it is worth ,the factory finish appears to be just fine ,if the rest of your trim is white then you would be a step ahead by NOT painting it. I would just caulk the edges and then clean it .Paint the walls and ceiling
Sometimes taking a texture off is an easy thing to do ,IF it has not been painted before ,most of them time when I see a ceiling with a heavy texture like that the drywall work under it will be rough . PM if you want me to tell how to get it off in a simple manner ,I must have done it a 1000 times if not more |
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