| Author | Thread |
|
|
10/12/2005 12:31:33 PM · #1 |
If your camera has the ability to let you bypass the internal saturation and sharpening boost, do you:
A-- Use that option and do it in Post?
B-- or do you let the camera take care of it? |
|
|
|
10/12/2005 12:38:18 PM · #2 |
|
|
|
10/12/2005 12:40:35 PM · #3 |
zero sharpening in camera
zero saturation boost in camera
accually Zero everything in camera
everything done in post
i was finding i was undoing sharpening when editing raw files
ALL THE TIME
so i stopped & only sharpen at the end of flow ... |
|
|
|
10/12/2005 12:57:24 PM · #4 |
| Unless someone wants to print straight from the camera, best to leave all at zero. |
|
|
|
10/12/2005 01:25:06 PM · #5 |
Like ripat, I shoot exclusively in RAW.
|
|
|
|
10/12/2005 01:28:09 PM · #6 |
I use the +1 sharpen on the 20D. It's not bad and I ALWAYS sharpen more than that. :)
M
|
|
|
|
10/12/2005 03:05:06 PM · #7 |
| I tried most of the parameters (preset and custom) on my rebel, and teh default (param 1 i believe) seems to work best for me. If i reduce in camera sharpening i don't seem to be able to get it back in post. |
|
|
|
10/12/2005 03:33:29 PM · #8 |
I've been shooting RAW exclusively for a year now. I had normally used ACR defaults on conversion of 10D RAW files. The default did apply a gentle sharpening, and I found the 10D files needed further sharpening in PS. Since migrating to the 5D, however, I've found that the output requires less sharpening and that turning off the sharpening in ACR and sharpening in post yields better results *for this cam*.
For color balance/saturation, I try to get the WB as close as possible even shooting RAW, so that I don't need to spend too much time tweaking during conversion. With the 5D, my settings for tone curve, or "picture Style" as it's called on the 5D & 1DMkIIN, is "faithful", and adjust in conversion.
I tend not to batch convert, I prefer to optimize the conversion of each image individually.
|
|
|
|
10/12/2005 04:40:34 PM · #9 |
When I got some better quality lenses I found that the default settings on my 20D were giving me images that were too sharp out of camera. I tried settings sharpness, saturation and contrast to the lowest possible level using a custom parameter set. I stopped using that set because the images were so soft and flat that it was very difficult to decide which of several similiar shots was the best without editing them all. Now I use a custom parameter set of all "Mid. low" settings for my .jpg shooting. Like any camera setting, it's a compromise that usually needs some fine tuning in post processing. The goal is always to get the best possible image with the least possible editing.
|
|
|
|
10/12/2005 05:47:13 PM · #10 |
A (but I don't shoot RAW yet...learning curve problem)
|
|
|
|
10/12/2005 05:51:35 PM · #11 |
Shoot RAW with zero in camera boost
|
|
Home -
Challenges -
Community -
League -
Photos -
Cameras -
Lenses -
Learn -
Help -
Terms of Use -
Privacy -
Top ^
DPChallenge, and website content and design, Copyright © 2001-2025 Challenging Technologies, LLC.
All digital photo copyrights belong to the photographers and may not be used without permission.
Current Server Time: 08/25/2025 10:59:07 PM EDT.
