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08/01/2005 07:18:15 AM · #1 |
In several of the pix in the long exposure challenge, I have noticed some clever stuff.
One of which was the same person in differant positions, without ghosting, or movement, or streaks.
How was this done? I know how to do it in a 'film' camera, but how was it done from a digital camera?
Thanks in advance.
Message edited by author 2005-08-01 07:18:32.
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08/01/2005 07:41:50 AM · #2 |
- Use a black background (or very dark, non-reflective)
- Set camera to long exposure (or to bulb)
- Fire a flash at the subject
- Move subject to a new position
- Fire flash again
Tip: Keep the background away from the subject so that the flash does not spill over and light the background.
The actual length of the exposure doesn't matter too much ... so long as the ambient light doesn't begin to affect the background. (unless that's what you want -- but too much ambient background lighting and you start to see ghosting)
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08/01/2005 07:45:54 AM · #3 |
Originally posted by dwterry:
- Use a black background (or very dark, non-reflective)
- Set camera to long exposure (or to bulb)
- Fire a flash at the subject
- Move subject to a new position
- Fire flash again
Tip: Keep the background away from the subject so that the flash does not spill over and light the background.
The actual length of the exposure doesn't matter too much ... so long as the ambient light doesn't begin to affect the background. (unless that's what you want -- but too much ambient background lighting and you start to see ghosting) |
But how was this done on the same frame? Digital is not like film where you can wind it back a frame.
Whats the secret?
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08/01/2005 07:50:33 AM · #4 |
Originally posted by swinging_johnson_v1:
But how was this done on the same frame? Digital is not like film where you can wind it back a frame. |
You're missing the point. That method would work for digital.
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08/01/2005 07:54:04 AM · #5 |
Originally posted by swinging_johnson_v1:
But how was this done on the same frame? Digital is not like film where you can wind it back a frame. |
The multiple exposure aspect comes not from opening and closing the shutter multiple times (it is openened only once, and left open during the entire sequence). What creates the multiple exposure is the flash. The more times you fire the flash, the more exposures you get.
The trick, again, is to keep the background dark. (unless you want ghosting, then adjust ambient light exposure accordingly)
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08/01/2005 08:00:30 AM · #6 |
You have to close your aperature all the way down and extend your f-stop so the shutter stays open for an extended amount of time, much like shooting fireworks or other night time images where you want a lot of light in. Closing the aperature limits the amount of light in and the long f-stop gives you more time to do the multiple exposure.
I would imagine your rebel would have a bulb setting for this. My olympus will only go down to f-stop 16" at 8 aperature so I'd have to work fast, others can make it last as long as they want.
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08/01/2005 08:03:16 AM · #7 |
| How would you do that with my camera? I can't flash twice. |
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08/01/2005 08:05:50 AM · #8 |
With an off-camera flash...most flashes have a flash setting, where just when you click the buton, you can flash them -- so you wouldn't even need to connect it to your camera to make it flash.
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08/01/2005 08:06:18 AM · #9 |
Originally posted by mandyturner:
How would you do that with my camera? I can't flash twice. |
you almost need a remote control flash that you can do yourself, some people have someone else help them flash for them or some have used a penlight or lamp to mimmic a flash. Takes practice, you won't see any in my portfolio cause I can't ever get a good daylight shot let alone one of these.
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08/01/2005 08:15:50 AM · #10 |
| Do any of you know a member here who has a point and shoot with manual modes that has experience with these type of in-camera techniques? |
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08/01/2005 08:22:23 AM · #11 |
Originally posted by mandyturner:
Do any of you know a member here who has a point and shoot with manual modes that has experience with these type of in-camera techniques? |
I have an external flash a friend gave me....I can try it with mine tonight and upload some samples for you if you wish. |
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08/01/2005 08:55:27 AM · #12 |
Couldn't you just use a flashlight or regular lamp, provided they were positioned correctly. This may or may not involve someone to help with the lighting. White balance would also have to be set accordingly.
Originally posted by mandyturner:
How would you do that with my camera? I can't flash twice. |
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08/01/2005 11:36:59 AM · #13 |
Originally posted by glad2badad:
Couldn't you just use a flashlight or regular lamp, provided they were positioned correctly. This may or may not involve someone to help with the lighting. White balance would also have to be set accordingly. |
Yes, this works quite well and creates some really neat effects with stationary objects. With people it might be kind of hard to get a good image unless you are wanting them to be blurred. |
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08/01/2005 11:44:05 AM · #14 |
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08/01/2005 11:51:10 AM · #15 |
one thing I could maybe suggest if using a house lamp and don't have someone to help is a remote control outlet. I had one in my house before photography so I could turn on my lights before I entered the house other wise I had to walk all the way across the dark room to the lamp. You have a small module that plugs into the outlet and the lamp into that and you carry a small remote to turn it on and off. It would allow you to hide the remote in your hand and not have to move any.
I got mine at Lowes but this one I found at radio shack is similar (mine was smaller).
//www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&product%5Fid=49-1113
here are others //www.radioshack.com/search.asp?find=remote+control+outlets&hp=search&SRC=1
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08/01/2005 11:52:27 AM · #16 |
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08/01/2005 12:02:12 PM · #17 |
Some flash units (like my 580ex) have a setting called STROBE. Whit this u can set the unit to fire the flash multiple times, during one single exposure. You can also set how many times will it flash, and hte interval between flashes.
Or as deapee said, u can use the "test fire button" in the flash unit to fire it. In my unit, it's the button that shows the flash recycling/ready to shoot (red/green light). You press it and you get a test fire. The advantage of this is that you can change the positioning of ur ligthing. But the strobe thing reaslly helps out.
Point and shoot can use regular lighting, like a flash light, or even some matches! Say for example u have a 10 sec exposure, and u want 3 faces on the shot. Stand on one side, light a match in front of ur face. Blow it. Do it again in a new position, blow it. Do it once again. BINGO. There you have a "multiple exposure" sort of photo, with one single exposure! Got the idea? |
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