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DPChallenge Forums >> Tips, Tricks, and Q&A >> Shooting into the sun
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05/31/2005 11:01:11 PM · #1
What are some of the best techniques when shooting into the sun and you can't shield the lens from sun flare by hiding behind a tree or pole? I find it very difficult to nail exposure in these scenes and usually wind up with a very underexposed image. If I open things up, then it washes out and gets overexposed. Is it best to shoot RAW and adjust the exposure in pp?
Thanks.
05/31/2005 11:03:34 PM · #2
Bracket.
Circular polarizer.
Neutral Density Filter (graduated type may be better)
Use your hands as a hood.
Fill Flash.

Message edited by author 2005-05-31 23:04:17.
05/31/2005 11:06:06 PM · #3
My lens hood is my friend! As an ex-UZi-r myself, I'd suggest fashioning one to avoid Mr. Lens Flare, never know when he'll show up uninvited. But seriously, as someone who shoots frequently into the sun, definitely RAW is the way to go--do you have that option on an UZi?? If so I wasted a lotta time with JPG. I'm usually shooting action and meter off of the moving object with shutter priority.
06/01/2005 01:30:37 AM · #4
Seems there are two problems here, overexposure and flare.

If the sun is in the frame, there is going to be some overexposure -- this really can't be avoided. There are several ways to minimize the effect though, several of which have been mentioned.

- Bracketing the exposure will give you a greater chance if your exposure if off by a small amount, but it won't help if you miss by much. The biggest gain from this is in combining them in post-processing to gain the detail captured by each of the exposures.
- Fill-flash or reflector will help to lower the overall range of tones, with the intention of the range becoming small enough to be captured in one shot. (this can be used in combination with bracketing for even greater flexibility).
- Meter the important areas (spot meter preferred) so they are exposed as desired. This is similar to bracketing, with greater control and assurance of getting all the detail desired in the final result. (This can be used with both of the above for greater flexibility, and to allow the bracketing to be tighter for greater certainty).

For the lens flare, use a lens hood of some sort -- from store bought to using your hand or hat to building one from cardboard or some other more durable material. Anything that puts the end of the lens in shadow, and stays out of the frame, will work.

And, a final note, it is always better to get the exposure right during the shoot than to try and adjust it afterward. Sometimes the exposure can be adjusted a little afterwards -- and something it can be adjusted a lot -- but when relying on fixing it afterwards you run the risk of not getting the shot you were after.

David
06/01/2005 01:57:43 AM · #5
chk this one !
06/01/2005 03:42:16 AM · #6
Thank you all very much for your very informative replys. Very helpful indeed.

Pitsaman, that's a great! shot. Great capture of the detail in the forground rocks and grass. How'd ya do it?
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