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05/25/2005 07:35:43 AM · #1 |
For a car in movement at about 70kmh what should be the settings for a nice panning and a nice sharp car? with this i mean aperture and exposure settings.
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05/25/2005 07:55:03 AM · #2 |
I shot these:
//www.calcaria.net/cgi-bin/wa22.pl?album=/SuperBikes.album
at between 1/200 and 1/30. That's with f-stop around f/11 - f/14.
Message edited by author 2005-05-25 07:55:10.
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05/25/2005 07:55:10 AM · #3 |
When I am doing panning shots I usually start at about 1/30 in shutter priority, review, then adjust the shutter/aperture from there. There are alot of factors including available light, background, speed of the moving object (which you included) how much blur you want.
(edit) blurr is with one r
Message edited by author 2005-05-25 07:56:15. |
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05/25/2005 09:43:27 AM · #4 |
I shoot action all the time, mainly sports.
If you want that crisp look of your subject, you need to time that subject and pan with that subject when fireing off shots.
You should do multiple shots while panning, and if your aperature speed is under 100, not only will you get major blurs both in forground and background, but camera shake will be noticeable.
To capture subjects moving I always am in Manuel mode for the greatest flexability. My ISO is at 100, I shoot around 200-250 speed, and I bracket my shots, and look at the histogram for my exposure.
Your exposure is relative.
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05/25/2005 10:04:15 AM · #5 |
Originally posted by swinging_johnson_v1: if your aperature speed is under 100, not only will you get major blurs both in forground and background, but camera shake will be noticeable. |
A number of my shots were taken below 1/100, and they are very sharp in the foreground. It is a lot more difficult though, I will say that.
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05/25/2005 10:16:01 AM · #6 |
I find under slower shutter speeds to work best. Up near 1/250 and faster than that the background isn't blurred. Take several to minimize camera shake - as in shoot in drive mode and 1 or 2 of 4 wil be good.
1/60, f5.6 ISO at 400 on at 28mm lens. The lens wil make a difference to some extent, as will how far back from the subject you are and how fast it is moving. It was very near dusk on that shot.
1/100 f4.0 ISO 400 at 100mm lens. Much brighter out this time. In both cases the vehicle should be going about 40 mph. Both are taken from my front yard. Not the best venue, but good enough to practice.
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05/25/2005 10:17:04 AM · #7 |
Originally posted by PaulMdx: Originally posted by swinging_johnson_v1: if your aperature speed is under 100, not only will you get major blurs both in forground and background, but camera shake will be noticeable. |
A number of my shots were taken below 1/100, and they are very sharp in the foreground. It is a lot more difficult though, I will say that. |
yeah paul, you may shoot at 1/30, but your aperature size is at minimum a 14f, not to mention, what kind of lens you have. Is it a slow lens, or a fast lens?
Everything is relative to each other in taking nice pix.
Message edited by author 2005-05-25 10:18:21.
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05/25/2005 10:19:54 AM · #8 |
Originally posted by swinging_johnson_v1:
yeah paul, you may shoot at 1/30, but your aperature size is at minimum a 14f, not to mention, what kind of lens you have. Is it a slow lens, or a fast lens?
Everything is relative to each other in taking nice pix. |
a slow or fast lens has nothing to do with shutter speed/aperture UNLESS you are shooting wide open (f2.8 or thereabouts). "Fast" in reference to a lens refers to a maximum aperture of 2.8 or wider in most cases, or perhaps f4 on a long telephoto lens.
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05/25/2005 10:22:36 AM · #9 |
Originally posted by Prof_Fate: Originally posted by swinging_johnson_v1:
yeah paul, you may shoot at 1/30, but your aperature size is at minimum a 14f, not to mention, what kind of lens you have. Is it a slow lens, or a fast lens?
Everything is relative to each other in taking nice pix. |
a slow or fast lens has nothing to do with shutter speed/aperture UNLESS you are shooting wide open (f2.8 or thereabouts). "Fast" in reference to a lens refers to a maximum aperture of 2.8 or wider in most cases, or perhaps f4 on a long telephoto lens. |
What you said, Chris... Not sure what you mean, swinging_johnson_v1..
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05/25/2005 10:26:10 AM · #10 |
This was taken at 1/15, got the effect I was looking for and that should drive what shutter and aperture you're looking for. Out of this series of shots I was going for the horses head.
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05/25/2005 10:26:56 AM · #11 |
Your lens is the eyes of your camera.
The faster the lens, the more light it can capture.
If you take a slow lens indoors, you will have to adjust to that lens to capture the most light.
If you have to go to a 400 iso, you obviously are compensating.
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05/25/2005 10:31:47 AM · #12 |
Originally posted by swinging_johnson_v1: Your lens is the eyes of your camera.
The faster the lens, the more light it can capture.
If you take a slow lens indoors, you will have to adjust to that lens to capture the most light.
If you have to go to a 400 iso, you obviously are compensating. |
I think you're misunderstanding how the aperture affects the lens.
Let's say my photo was taken at f/14. That means whether I'm indoors or outdoors it will contract the aperture blades to that diameter for every shot. If I have a f/2.8 lens, it will tighten to f/14. If I have an f/5.6 lens, it will tighten to f/14. The widest aperture does not affect the aperture if I stop it down.
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05/25/2005 10:49:25 AM · #13 |
i shot this at iso1600 F/5 @ 1/250. he was doing about over 130mph at the time...
i shot this at iso100 F/14 @ 1/125. he was doing about 100mph, and i was panning towards him, not with him...
i shot this at iso100 F/7.1 @ 1/800. he was doing about 80mph.
it's all a matter of practice. just keep shooting and adjusting until you find what works for you. everything is relative and dependent on the lighting that is available to you. good luck, have fun, and POST UP YOUR RESULTS!!! |
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05/25/2005 10:53:11 AM · #14 |
Great examples skip! Shows how much the variables are for the desired effect. It's practice, more practice, and yet more practice. |
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05/25/2005 01:40:59 PM · #15 |
Originally posted by Discraft: For a car in movement at about 70kmh what should be the settings for a nice panning and a nice sharp car? with this i mean aperture and exposure settings. |
As you can see from the posts here there are many opinions about how to approach panning a speeding auto. That's because there are too many variables for a single answer to be correct. Distance from camera to subject, and distance from subject to background, will affect your shot as well as lighting and camera settings. The best advice in this thread is what skiprow said -- "it's all a matter of practice. just keep shooting and adjusting until you find what works for you."
But your 20D is an excellent camera to do what you are asking about. My personal approach would be to take some test shots in the P mode to see what the camera thinks is best and work from there. Decide what ISO works best for the lighting conditions, then move to either Av or Tv to select a working range, and perhaps to M if you are sure of what you want. And you may want to go back and adjust ISO so that you can use a lower Aperture number to isolate the subject from the background if the distances and settings aren't getting enough background blur for you.
Moving the camera in sync with the subject is critical. Fortunately it is a skill that can be learned easily and well with practice. If the situation allows using a swiveling-head tripod, that will give you more flexibility in your shutter speed and aperture settings.
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05/25/2005 01:58:10 PM · #16 |
Great shots - nice motion blur and great sharpness as well. |
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05/25/2005 02:03:25 PM · #17 |
Originally posted by brianlh:
Great shots - nice motion blur and great sharpness as well. |
Thanks. I hadn't shot bikes before. It was good fun.
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