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05/16/2005 10:41:22 PM · #1 |
So I've got a set of studio lights on the way (2 500w/s Hensel Integras), and I know I need a light meter. What do you suggest? I think something basic would suit me fine.
What is the difference between a flash meter and an incident meter?
Thanks guys.
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05/16/2005 10:54:10 PM · #2 |
An incident meter is an exposure meter that measures the amount of light falling on a subject. Incident light is also known as illuminance, and is measured in foot-candles.
A flash meter is an exposure meter designed to measure the light from electronic flash. So the flash meter measures the amount of light that would fall on the subject when the flash is used.
I'm really not this smart but I'm good at research. :) I found the information in Ansel Adams' book "The Negative" and online.
I don't have any suggestions as to what meter to obtain. I've never owned a light meter.
-Nick
Message edited by author 2005-05-16 23:00:52. |
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05/16/2005 11:22:51 PM · #3 |
I have a Minolta ambient 1° digital spot meter, which I bought nearly 15+ years ago...it was expensive then can't imagine what they cost now...but I have had the best exposures (w/film cameras) using that meter with a gray card. Before the Pentax meter I had a less expensive Minolta digital meter that read incident light...which I rarely used once I bought that Pentax spot meter...I know it's not your basic type of meter but it is awesome!
Rachel
Message edited by author 2005-05-18 10:03:20. |
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05/16/2005 11:25:47 PM · #4 |
Incident meter measures only continuous light sources. A flash meter is specifically designed to measure bright, short-duration lighitn (flash). The electronics required are different. For your studio strobes, you will need a flash meter, of course. I can't recommend, since I've never owned one.
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05/16/2005 11:26:52 PM · #5 |
If you have to get one here is a reliable brand. sekonic
A flash meter is an expensive tool it's useful, especially for film, however you should be able to make fairly accurate exposures without one, using digital camera with some practice. Bracket initially and use your camera's tools like histogram and especially your eye. |
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05/16/2005 11:39:56 PM · #6 |
you only need an analoge to start off with. digital is more precise, but may need recalibration at some point in its life.
a spot meter is just that, it takes a sample of the light that you are looking at through its finder. it does not take a whole picture of what the light out put is.
and like nfessel told you are basically correct on the flash and incidental. however, you can use incidental meters as well with flash elements.
Sekonic is a great brand. a workhorse in the industry I am involved in.
ebay is a good place to find what you are looking for.
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05/17/2005 12:52:13 AM · #7 |
The Sekonic light meters seem to be good and very popular. Another great make for this is also Minolta. I have a Minolta and absolutely love it :)
Message edited by author 2005-05-17 00:52:24.
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05/17/2005 05:47:37 PM · #8 |
Thanks all. If anyone can suggest any specific models that'd be helpful. In the meantime I'll do some cross checking between Sekonic's site and ebay and see what I come up with.
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05/17/2005 05:53:01 PM · #9 |
The Sekonic L-308S is a great bargain at US$161 or you could spring for the Rolls Royce of lightmeters with the Sekonic L-558R
Message edited by author 2005-05-17 17:53:36. |
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05/17/2005 10:42:36 PM · #10 |
Thank you Nick, I think I'll do the 308, just as soon as I top up my Paypal account ;)
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05/17/2005 11:01:17 PM · #11 |
I shoot with a Sekonic 358. Difference between that and the 308 is that the 358 head rotates and can be changed out (so it can go from 50 deg or whatever the default is to spot). 358 can also accept a card to trigger Pocket Wizards which I don't think is an option on the 308. Some other feature differences but I dunno the details.
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