avoiding blown highlights!!! - DPChallenge Forums

Canon EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS USM

05/03/2005 01:47:22 PM · #1

i have a Minolta Dimage Z1. i have a big problem with blown highlights. highlights are blown out if there is any sun out. i have tried to turn lighting in the camera down to -2.0. this doesnt help much...anyone have any sugestions on what else i can do?

KevinRiggs

Canon EOS-1Ds

05/03/2005 01:56:26 PM · #2

Stopping down your aperture will allow less light to come through the lens, thus giving you one way to control highlights.

EDIT: Then again, depending on what you're shooting you could use a scrim of some kind to cut down on the actual amount of light hitting the subject. A scrim is pretty much just a piece of fabric/material/whatever that can be used to cut down on the light falling directly on the subject.

Of course, once you lessen the amount of light either falling on the subject with a scrim of some kind or you cut down on the amount of light coming into the lens you might find that some parts of the subject aren't lit the way you want. Now you can add a reflector to bounce light back onto the subject in the way you want to produce the shot you want.

All this is just my ramblings as I search for a good nap spot after lunch.

Kev

Message edited by author 2005-05-03 13:59:38.

05/03/2005 02:02:30 PM · #3

Originally posted by KevinRiggs:

here is the link to highlight problemsphotos

PhotoRyno

Canon EOS-5D

05/03/2005 02:02:51 PM · #4

Originally posted by KevinRiggs:

Stopping down your aperture will allow less light to come through the lens, thus giving you one way to control highlights.

Kev

But then you lose the detail in the shadows by stoping down. Would it not be better to meter off of something reflecting a little more than 18% gray.

kdkaboom

Canon EOS-350D Rebel XT

05/03/2005 02:15:47 PM · #5

Hey, I have the same problems. Damn Z1. I can't stand the thing.

Other than messing with meter, I just try to focus on different parts of the scene I'm shooting (if that's possible). If you focus on a dark area, the highlights will be blown because the camera is compensating for details in the shadows. But if you focus on the brightest parts, the camera will usually "dull" it down. But yes, it's annoying trying to get things just right. Maybe try manual focus on infinity? (Infinity seems to be the only setting that works heh) I find the focus issues of the Z1 are what cause most of the problems I experience!

05/03/2005 02:20:59 PM · #6

Originally posted by kdkaboom:

how do u make it focus on exactly what u want it to? i have tried all but manual(which i cant figure out how to use) and it still pick something else to focus on

kdkaboom

Canon EOS-350D Rebel XT

Canon EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS USM

05/03/2005 02:25:48 PM · #7

Originally posted by smilebig4me1x:

Originally posted by kdkaboom:
Hey, I have the same problems. Damn Z1. I can't stand the thing.

Other than messing with meter, I just try to focus on different parts of the scene I'm shooting (if that's possible). If you focus on a dark area, the highlights will be blown because the camera is compensating for details in the shadows. But if you focus on the brightest parts, the camera will usually "dull" it down. But yes, it's annoying trying to get things just right. Maybe try manual focus on infinity? (Infinity seems to be the only setting that works heh) I find the focus issues of the Z1 are what cause most of the problems I experience!

how do u make it focus on exactly what u want it to? i have tried all but manual(which i cant figure out how to use) and it still pick something else to focus on

I guess it kinda helps to move the camera around and hope it focuses on what you want it to ahaha, then compose the shot with your finger still halfway pressing the clicker. That will maintain your subject's sharpness while getting into the shot whatever else.

Manual focus sucks on the Z1. I've been able to use it only when set on infinity. It can't be done in Auto, you've gotta set the camera to a Manual setting. Then go to the menu and change AF to MF. You'll still have to meter it up, adjust all the manual settings, etc., but it will work for landscapes. A short dof will also help to get as much in focus as possible.

It's rough'n'tough.

KevinRiggs

Canon EOS-1Ds

05/03/2005 02:40:21 PM · #8

Originally posted by PhotoRyno:

But then you lose the detail in the shadows by stoping down. Would it not be better to meter off of something reflecting a little more than 18% gray.

You would lose detail in the shadows or mid-tones by stopping down the aperture. I didn't figure most people would consistently have a surface/subject that contained slightly more than 18% gray but if you had such a product that would also help to cut down on the blown highlights and should not reduce the amount of detail in the mid-tones as much.

Smilebig4me1x, I looked at the photos you have. The calf in Pict2329 suffers more from chromatic aberration (CA) or blooming than even from blown highlights. Do you see the purple fringing around the edges of the areas of high contrast (such as the white edges of the calf's outline or the horizontal railing at the top of the fence above the calf)? I'm unfamiliar with the equipment you're using but regardless, metering off a slightly darker than subject or stopping down the aperture will give you less blown highlights in your shots. In Pict1002 for example you would get less of the problem you have and the spaces under some of the rocks would be more of a solid and deep black. You would lose some detail in the shadows but in that shot I don't see how that would hurt (from my perspective).

To stop down the aperture you want to change the f-stop of your camera. The larger the number, the more you've stopped it down. f/8 would be better (for this one effect of blown highlights) than say f/4 or f/2.8. Of course, there are other trade offs to consider but I'm just trying to give you one down-and-dirty way to handle blown highlights produced by any camera in any setting. I'm sure others will have other things to consider. Perhaps your camera has a less sensitive ISO setting (like ISO 50 or 100 or something) which might help as well.

Kev

Canon EF 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6 DO IS USM

05/03/2005 03:05:38 PM · #9

Smilebig4me1x, I looked at the photos you have. The calf in Pict2329 suffers more from chromatic aberration (CA) or blooming than even from blown highlights. Do you see the purple fringing around the edges of the areas of high contrast (such as the white edges of the calf's outline or the horizontal railing at the top of the fence above the calf)? I'm unfamiliar with the equipment you're using but regardless, metering off a slightly darker than subject or stopping down the aperture will give you less blown highlights in your shots. In Pict1002 for example you would get less of the problem you have and the spaces under some of the rocks would be more of a solid and deep black. You would lose some detail in the shadows but in that shot I don't see how that would hurt (from my perspective).

Kev [/quote]
please bear with me as i have a million questions( hi, Im Cher and im a beginner..lol)

WHat is CA or blooming caused by? i looked at the calf photo again and i see what ur talking about but i dont have a clue what it is im looking at! also i have my camera set on ISO 100(settings are ISO50,100,200,&400 and auto)...is this a good seting or what is the difference in the iso settings. what is the best setting of metering mode...multi-segment,ctr.weighted or spot. I do mostly water scenery and flower shots and i have no idea what the settings are for. someone please help me!
so i need to focus on a darker spot to off set the bright to avoid blown highlight?

edit:spelling& aditional question

Message edited by author 2005-05-03 15:15:16.

cpanaioti

Canon EOS-40D

05/03/2005 03:15:22 PM · #10

Originally posted by smilebig4me1x:

please bear with me as i have a million questions( hi, Im Cher and im a beginner..lol)

WHat is CA or blooming caused by? i looked at the calf photo again and i see what ur talking about but i dont have a clue what it is im looking at! also i have my camera set on ISO 100(settings are ISO50,100,200,&400 and auto)...is this a good seting or what is the difference in the iso settings. what is the best setting of metering mode...multi-segment,ctr.weighted or spot. I do mostly scenerie shots and i have no idea what the settings are for. someone please help me!

Metering: For most situations, multi-segment will produce consistent results. Spot metering is used when you want a particular part of your scene to be exposed properly but it only is a small section of the scene. The spot meter is usually connected to the center focusing point so you may have to use exposure lock or manual mode if you don't want that part of the scene in the middle of your image.

ISO: With prosumer cameras it is usually best to use the lowest ISO setting the camera allows as noise increases as the ISO increases. How this affects CA someone else will have to answer.

Pentax DA 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 AF

05/03/2005 07:14:15 PM · #11

Originally posted by cpanaioti:

Originally posted by smilebig4me1x:
please bear with me as i have a million questions( hi, Im Cher and im a beginner..lol)

WHat is CA or blooming caused by? i looked at the calf photo again and i see what ur talking about but i dont have a clue what it is im looking at! also i have my camera set on ISO 100(settings are ISO50,100,200,&400 and auto)...is this a good seting or what is the difference in the iso settings. what is the best setting of metering mode...multi-segment,ctr.weighted or spot. I do mostly scenerie shots and i have no idea what the settings are for. someone please help me!

Metering: For most situations, multi-segment will produce consistent results. Spot metering is used when you want a particular part of your scene to be exposed properly but it only is a small section of the scene. The spot meter is usually connected to the center focusing point so you may have to use exposure lock or manual mode if you don't want that part of the scene in the middle of your image.

ISO: With prosumer cameras it is usually best to use the lowest ISO setting the camera allows as noise increases as the ISO increases. How this affects CA someone else will have to answer.

can anyone answer what is a CA/Blooming?

faidoi

Pentax K10D

05/03/2005 07:16:57 PM · #12

Originally posted by smilebig4me1x:

can anyone answer what is a CA/Blooming?

The purple outlines you see when a white part of a picture is blowned out. Usually happens when transitioning from black to white parts.

faidoi

Pentax K10D

Pentax DA 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 AF

05/03/2005 07:17:50 PM · #13

Not sure if your camera has a histogram mode.