|
| Author | Thread |
|
|
04/29/2005 01:11:21 PM · #26 |
Originally posted by ganders:
So why does Canon insist on labelling things Av and Tv instead of A and S like everyone else? Is it only on their digital bodies or do they have this strange labelling on their film gear too? |
It's on their film gear as well.
|
|
|
|
04/29/2005 01:11:31 PM · #27 |
You can also auto bracket exposure in Av mode so if you don't like the exposure the camera believes is correct, you can chose one or two stops higher or lower.
Personally, 95% of the time my camera is set in Av mode, 5% on manual when I want to override the camera's exposure time to under or over expose a scene.
Course, during my night shots this weekend, it will have to be on manual... :) Probably for my dream shots too.
d
|
|
|
|
04/29/2005 01:17:27 PM · #28 |
Originally posted by legalbeagle:
[quote=swinging_johnson_v1] As for compromise - Av gives you the full range of stops available for your camera, and sets the Tv for you at the correct speed, taking into account the metering method used, flash lock, ISO speed, flash focal length. Tv gives you the full range of shutter speeds, and sets the Av for you accordingly with the same considerations. So there is no "compromise" with Av and Tv. Are you thinking of the "portrait" mode, and "landscape" mode etc? |
So if you are adjust your camera anyway withing those modes, why not just go to manuel.
Like I said, you have a handle on your camera. Do what is comfortable to you, but you are missing out on the full usefullness of your camera if you do not explore Manuel.
You did not respond to my Histogram or bracketting question?
|
|
|
|
04/29/2005 01:22:13 PM · #29 |
By sticking just to manual mode you may be missing out on the power of the camera. The other modes are there to help the photographer not hinder. Within all the creative modes, exposure compensation works very well. In a lot of situations using either Av or Tv is much quicker since you are only handling one attribute rather than two.
|
|
|
|
04/29/2005 01:45:46 PM · #30 |
I use Tv, Av, and M in different situations. Contrary to what Swinging Johnson writes, you don't have any more control in M than in Tv or Av in most situations. The exceptions are the (somewhat rare, in my experience) situation where you are attempting to expose more than two stops above or below what the camera believes is correct exposure for whichever metering mode you have selected, and when you are setting up a series of shots that absolutely must have the same settings (panorama shots being set up for image stitching come to mind), and you are planning to take a break between shots for some reason, so you can't use the exposure lock button. Other than those two situations, every setting you can reach with M, you can reach just as well (and often more easily, though sometimes less) from Av or Tv.
A good way to think of Tv or Av modes is that they are manual modes where you select first either aperture or speed, depending on which you consider more important to your shot, then ask the camera to quickly blip the other setting to a value that matches available light. To adjust the other value, you use the second dial to tune the exposure, which effectively sets the other setting, which is visible in the viewfinder the entire time. Your expensive camera has a high-tech lightmeter for a reason, and I see no reason not to make good use of it.
In Manual mode, you would be doing exactly the same thing, starting with either aperture or speed, and then adjusting the other until the lightmeter on the viewfinder gave you a value you found reasonable. Generally, going with Av or Tv is faster (particularly if you're using auto exposure bracketing anyway), since you start with a reasonable baseline, but since you can only adjust exposure by two stops in either direction, there are some situations where you would have to switch to full Manual. M can also be sometimes more comfortable to adjust than Tv, because Tv inverts the relationship of the direction of the thumb wheel to the aperture. I also sometimes use M as a substitute for exposure lock when taking a series of pictures (e.g. for a panorama, where I've also disabled auto white balance). I still haven't gotten used to that button, and it forces you to take all of your shots in fairly quick succession, whereas M settings will stick until you change modes.
|
|
|
|
04/29/2005 02:00:32 PM · #31 |
you make a good point Zed Pobre, I am not saying however NOT to use the TV, or the AV, but in fact I am condoneing the exploration of the full capabilities of the camera.
Manuel mode should not be dismissed, it is there for a reason, and to ignore it would be a waste of good money.
The internal meter is a spot meter, not an incidental meter by the way, and that is a whole differant thread.
|
|
|
|
04/30/2005 09:43:06 AM · #32 |
Unless you are using an external meter, you are ignoring a reasonably powerful tool in the camers - the variety of internal metering options.
I almost always yse the histogram function (how else can you tell whether the frame is properly exposed?) and use bracketing where shooting a difficult subject (high contrast, usually). Not sure what your point is here - if you can read a histogram, it is hugely useful for analysis on an LCD screen. Bracketing is useful when time is short to ensure that you get a useable image - esp. combined with histogram analysis.
It is a mistake to regard "M" as the only manual mode. Av and Tv are manual modes. In all you manually set one or more variables (aperture, shutter, ISO, flash options). In "M", you set Aperture and Shutter speed. In Av and Tv, you set one of Aperture or Shutter speed and use the internal light meter to automatically set the other. Exactly the same as using an external light meter where you use the light meter settings, except faster and more convenient with more metering options (though some of these may be less precise than an external meter).
If you are only going to use "M" mode, you are ignoring some of the most useful developments and the options put on better bodies. You do not pay "extra" for "M" mode. You pay extra for the 20d over the 300d so you can adjust exposure levels in Tv and Av modes on the back dial. You pay extra for more AF focus points. So ignoring "M" is not wasting good money - it would be a waste to buy more than the most basic DSLR and not use the extra options that you have paid for!
If you always use "M", do you always meter externally, or do you guess? Neither is practical for most people (me included) most of the time. I would highly recommend experimenting with those modes and seeing how much more convenient they can be in most situations.
My point still stands: Av and Tv are (very useful) methods of taking properly exposed photos for those who are learning. With M mode you would not know why a picture was over exposed or wrong DoF as you have two variables: - aperture or shutter speed could be incorrect. Much better to learn with Av and Tv and use "M" when those are not giving you the results you want - you'll know then what you want, and why you need to ignore the metering.
AF is critical in a camera without the proper matting, as without a focussing circle shape in your viewfinder, the AF will be hugely more accurate than your eye in 90% of occassions. By turning it off, you are ignoring a very expensive bit of your camera and lens.
|
|
|
|
04/30/2005 11:02:07 AM · #33 |
Originally posted by Discraft:
I will have a try at them especially Tv mode so i can freeze the action especially on bird shots... or should i not do this? |
I think the best way to freeze action is to know what shutterspeed you need. Usually around 1/500 is going to freeze most things. Maybe more like 1/800 or even faster for birds because of their wings and probably faster than that for some sports because of how fast hockey sticks or whatever move.
The best way to do this, in my opinion, is to shoot in aperture priority mode. Point your camera at the subject, let it focus and look at the shutterspeed. Choose the widest aperture. Adjust your ISO as needed to get the proper shutterspeed.
The reason I think this is best is because if you're selecting 1/500 of a second, you might be at f5.6 but then the sun pops up or hits your subject a little differently, and suddenly you're shooting at 1/500 sec. and f11.0 or something with a totally infocus background. When you could have been shooting at f5.6 still and 1/1000 of a second if you were in Av mode.
Everyone has their own ways, but the only time I'll use Tv mode is when I want a longer exposure. For quicker, I always just use Av and adjust ISO.
|
|
|
|
Current Server Time: 09/14/2025 03:09:14 AM  |
Home -
Challenges -
Community -
League -
Photos -
Cameras -
Lenses -
Learn -
Help -
Terms of Use -
Privacy -
Top ^
DPChallenge, and website content and design, Copyright © 2001-2025 Challenging Technologies, LLC.
All digital photo copyrights belong to the photographers and may not be used without permission.
Current Server Time: 09/14/2025 03:09:14 AM EDT.
|
