I have a chronic blown-headlights problem, help?

Sigma 15mm f/2.8 EX Diagonal Fisheye for Nikon

04/28/2005 09:27:40 AM · #1

Here's another example of my chronic problem, where the tops of the trains aren't quite blown out, but the bright parts are too bright to get the details. F/4.9; 1/500 sec.

I'm also curious about this problem, because I expect to run into the same thing for my night-shot for the upcoming challenge.

Any help would be very much appreciated. I'm considering having a drastic accident with my camera. I wonder if it's worth insuring it.

muckpond

Nikon D200

04/28/2005 09:33:49 AM · #2

a larger aperture will allow you to have a slower shutter speed. i don't know the max aperture on that cam, but the larger number = smaller aperture = longer shutter time.

i _think_ (though i'm not 100% familiar with it), there is a screw-on adapter for that cam that will then let you put a couple of custom lenses on it. even if not, you can put a flat filter in front of the lens and just hold it there with tape or whatever.

you probably should look at getting an ND filter, which limits the amount of light coming in and lets you have longer shutter speeds without blowing out highlights.

i dunno about your insurance coverage, but my deductible would be quite a bit more than my cam (or your cam) is worth... :D

saintaugust

Canon EOS-550D Rebel T2i

04/28/2005 09:38:51 AM · #3

Originally posted by Strikeslip:

As an example, here's a photo I took at F/8, 1/5 sec exp. F/8 is my smallest aperture, and I wanted to get the soft-water effect with a longer exposure. While the rocks look good to me at these settings, the splashing water is blown out looking. I didn't have my sunglasses with me at the time, but I suspect that holding them in front of my lens may have helped (I don't think my camera accepts filters), is this true?

I've tried to fix my recurring problem in Photoshop, and the DPC tutorial on Highlights helps a bit. Burning just turns the blown-out white to a blown out grey. I'm guessing that it's hopeless to fix blow-out in Photoshop, as it's simply recorded as pure white by the camera.

I'm also wondering, do you think that this is more my problem, or the camera's?

The blowout isn't too horrible in this, but you can clearly see it in three spots, which I meant to be focal points, effectively ruining the shot I was practically laying in a creek to get, it's maddening.

Here's another example of my chronic problem, where the tops of the trains aren't quite blown out, but the bright parts are too bright to get the details. F/4.9; 1/500 sec.

I'm also curious about this problem, because I expect to run into the same thing for my night-shot for the upcoming challenge.

Any help would be very much appreciated. I'm considering having a drastic accident with my camera. I wonder if it's worth insuring it.

the problem with the compact cameras such as A95 is that it's not a true aperature setting. there are really only 2-3 settings for the iris of the lens I believe, the other 'aperatures' are only fine tuning in the ISO the camera does to simulate the settings.

Canon EF 300mm f/2.8L IS USM

04/28/2005 09:40:14 AM · #4

Thanks Muck, I meant to say my highest aperture is F/8, which is the smallest hole it makes. I do have an adapter that screws on, which in turn allows a weak telephoto lens to fit over the camera, maybe I can rig something onto that adapter. I hadn't thought of that, easier than holding sunglasses in front of the lens. Thanks!

Skip

Canon EOS-1D X

04/28/2005 09:40:57 AM · #5

i don't know anything about your camera or how much control you have over things like this. with my camera, i can point it around and take readings in order to get an idea of what area is reflecting back the most light. then i can make adjustments accordingly. sometimes, if i'm not sure, i'll take a shot at full automatic, just to see what the camera thinks. i'll also be looking at histograms between shots. this is all well for the examples you shown, but it gets rather dicey when you (or your subject) is on the move.

what you might need to do is go dig up some shiny minerals and trade for new gear

;-)

cghubbell

Nikon D300

Nikon AF-S DX Zoom-Nikkor 17-55mm f/2.8G IF-ED

04/28/2005 09:40:59 AM · #6

It's tough to work with an f8 limit when you're shooting water in daylight. I usually shoot water blurring at f/16+. I'd try getting out a bit earlier or on more overcast days.

Once a highlight is blown, you can't restore detail unless you are shooting Raw and using a converter than can extraxt detail from a non-blown channel. Bibble does a remarkable job here. Burning isn't a cure for blown highlights though. It's more of a loose-fitting band aid. Only thing you can do is use filters, control exposure, or shoot in different conditions.

Sometimes I just know there's no way to make them happen in a given lighting scenario and I let the image go. For the most part though, photography has slowly turned me into an early riser.

Canon EF 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6 DO IS USM

04/28/2005 09:41:33 AM · #7

Originally posted by saintaugust:

Oh my! I didn't know that. Now I feel ripped off!

cpanaioti

Canon EOS-40D

04/28/2005 09:45:12 AM · #8

Originally posted by Strikeslip:

As you've stated you have an adapter so you could get an ND filter to screw into it so you could use slower shutter speeds.

saintaugust

Canon EOS-550D Rebel T2i

04/28/2005 09:47:40 AM · #9

Originally posted by Strikeslip:

Originally posted by saintaugust:
the problem with the compact cameras such as A95 is that it's not a true aperature setting. there are really only 2-3 settings for the iris of the lens I believe, the other 'aperatures' are only fine tuning in the ISO the camera does to simulate the settings.

Oh my! I didn't know that. Now I feel ripped off!

with that said, the A95 is still a great camera for the price range.

Sigma 15mm f/2.8 EX Diagonal Fisheye for Nikon

04/28/2005 09:48:31 AM · #10

Originally posted by skiprow:

what you might need to do is go dig up some shiny minerals and trade for new gear

;-)

Unfortunately, our investors don't seem impressed by our recent drill results and the stock is performing in a less than stellar way, so my options aren't worth anything.

Fortunately, we're consolidating debt against our mortgage, which will have the illusion of freeing up some cash.

Unfortunately, the wife would tear me a new one if I went hog-wild on new gear.

Fortunately, I have a knack for writing things off as business expenses.

;-)

muckpond

Nikon D200

04/28/2005 09:56:43 AM · #11

the A95 is a great cam (isn't that the one that has the built-in panorama feature? LOVE that.)

even if there's not a screw-in ND filter you can still stick something in front of the lens and hold it in place. scotch tape is your friend.

sunglasses might not work, but something flat would probably not interfere with the autofocus.

and use a tripod! (or get another piece of tape and a straight-looking tree!)

Man_Called_Horse

Canon EOS-300D Rebel

04/28/2005 10:04:21 AM · #12

Originally posted by Strikeslip:

maybe I can rig something onto that adapter.

A little trick I learned at work.

If you get some swatchs, (which are free), from some of the filter manufacturers you can have the ability to rig your ND onto your lens, and diffusion onto your flash.

Rosco Filters, Hollywood, CA, 800-ROSCO-LA
LeeColortran, Burbank, CA, 818-843-1200
Formatt Filters, England, sales@formatt.co.uk

Sorry, I don't have all the web addresses available, but Google probly does.

Message edited by author 2005-04-28 10:04:57.