Nikon D70 parameters question - DPChallenge Forums

04/26/2005 12:55:29 PM · #1

Hi! Recently I've readed a forum about in camera sharpness in canon vs nikon. I've played a lot with the processing parameters because in neutral values it seemed too soft, and I don't get along very well with USM in Photoshop (probably because I don't awndertand it much).

Is it me or when you set sharpness values very high in the camera also puts the noise to high?

but what values of sharpness 8and the others like contrast, sat, etc)do you use for yourself? Do you vary then according to each situation?

04/26/2005 12:58:36 PM · #2

And when you shoot in raw(nef) does this programmed values take any effect on the raw file?

ralph

Nikon Z9

04/26/2005 01:11:23 PM · #3

things to remember
1) shapening shapen everything including noise
2) sharpening should be one of the very last steps of your work flow
3) sharpening in L*a*b in Lightness(luminosity) will not give you color shifts
4) to much halo is bad bad bad 99% of the time
5) don't sharpen twice otherwise you are sharpening your halos

that being said look at the tutorial here

i keep my sharpening on Normal because i want the casual observation to look reasonable
but if i go out of my way to process an image i set it to none (in Capture) then proceed to to process then as my final step(s) sharpen

sorry - and to answer the question
>And when you shoot in raw(nef) does this programmed values take any effect on the raw file?<
you can revert or augment your raw afterwards - the sharpening is only a setting in the file it affects processing after the image is read in - nothing affects teh pixel data in a raw file

Message edited by author 2005-04-26 13:14:48.

Azrifel

Fujifilm X100VI

04/26/2005 01:12:22 PM · #4

Your programmed values will be the default values for the NEF. I have set my sharpness to one of the lowest settings and all the other stuff is default. I tweak every other parameter with the raw converter. It takes too much of my time to setup each while shooting, for the same reason I never set the whitebalance beforehand.
I never shoot jpeg, not even for a 'snapshot' (what is a snapshot anyway, crap shot?).

Canon RF 24-70mm f/2.8 L IS

04/26/2005 07:15:04 PM · #5

I must confess that I was a bit sceptical about raw shooting. But once I saw what it can do for your photos I became a fan. It is not for all the situations, at least for me. when I have to prin proofs right out of the camera, like for a wedding for example, and you don't have time to go home and pass 4 CF cards of 1GB each - about 2 hours, post process each image, and then go to the lab and even then go to the ceremony to present the contact proofs - it would take a day just to post process I gess. But for planned work where time is no problem and large prints are a must, yes its the best.

As to camera parameters I use:
sharpening: +1
tone comp.: 0
color mode: Isrgb
saturation: + enhanced

does the other presets, like portraits or landscapes work well?

e301

04/26/2005 07:22:57 PM · #6

The only thing I'd recommend is to be careful about allthese settings - remember that if you're working on JPEGs you can't get that stuff back once the camera's processing has done it for you.

That said, there are presumably a lot of clever people working on these algorithms in laboratories somewhere; so they're not completely awful.

With saturation and contrast, upping the values can leave you clipping things you don't need to - colour levels, brightness, and that can also be unrecoverable: be very careful of that.

e

kirbic

Canon EOS R5

04/26/2005 07:41:39 PM · #7

I agree completely with e301's post. It's hard enough ot avoid clipping a channel, given that the composite histogram is the only one available on the lower-level DSLRs, but to add sharpening, saturation or contrast in-camera when shooting JPG is asking for trouble.
When you set sharpening higher in camera, yoiu will definitely "sharpen the noise" as well. This is why it's better to sharpen carefully in PS, using a non-zero threshold value. A value of 2-3 works much better, and it might have to be raised a little for shots made at hight ISO.
I disagree with the statement made abovve that only one sharpening pass should be made. If the destination is print, this is valid, do it at the end of the editing process. If going to the web, however, you will need to sharpen again, gently, after resizing.
You can also make two (or more) sharpening passes with gentler settings and this usually yields slightly better results than an equivalent single pass. Sharpening the luminosity channel only to avoid color shifts is a good idea, but avoid converting to the LAB space and back. Instead, run the sharpening, then select fade>unsharp mask and select luminosity as the blend mode. Leave the percentage at 100%. Click OK. Voila.