In Studio - DPChallenge Forums

04/20/2005 04:04:39 PM · #1

When you are shooting in a studio do you use the on board flash if you don't have any other?
Do you use flash with other lights?
How to achieve a one single light that you can see the limits of the light... i have no example now but i hope you understand.

04/20/2005 04:22:35 PM · #2

bump

soup

Canon EF 17-40mm f/4.0L USM

04/20/2005 04:47:05 PM · #3

i commonly bounce my 550ex off a reflector to one side of the subjects. or over the top of them. i hardly ever use/used the built in flash.

not sure i understand the question though.

Message edited by author 2005-04-20 16:47:19.

04/20/2005 04:52:15 PM · #4

Originally posted by soup:

i commonly bounce my 550ex off a reflector to one side of the subjects. or over the top of them. i hardly ever use/used the built in flash.

not sure i understand the question though.

Which question all of them or just one of them?

04/20/2005 05:13:31 PM · #5

Originally posted by Discraft:

I would never use the onboard flash with studio lights. Combining a totally undiffused light source with the highly diffused umbrella and softbox would ruin it.

Message edited by author 2005-04-20 17:13:39.

04/20/2005 05:16:14 PM · #6

Yap put i only use normal lighting i do not have any strobes or softboxes... show i just stick to the lighting and forget about my onboard flash?

04/20/2005 05:17:43 PM · #7

Originally posted by Discraft:

Yap put i only use normal lighting i do not have any strobes or softboxes... show i just stick to the lighting and forget about my onboard flash?

Don't use the onboard flash. I didn't even mention the terrible shadow it makes behind the subject and under their chin, if it's a person.

ebertdj

Canon EF 17-35mm f/2.8L

04/20/2005 05:23:24 PM · #8

Originally posted by Discraft:

How to achieve a one single light that you can see the limits of the light... i have no example now but i hope you understand.

Are you wanting to know something like this?

Canon EF 75-300mm f/4.0-5.6 III

04/20/2005 05:27:32 PM · #9

Originally posted by ebertdj:

Originally posted by Discraft:

How to achieve a one single light that you can see the limits of the light... i have no example now but i hope you understand.

Are you wanting to know something like this?

Nope i have been looking for and example here in dpc but can't find one i'll do an example in photoshop.

sofap

Canon EOS-10D

04/20/2005 05:30:19 PM · #10

Yes you can use the on camera flash with studio lights, if the studio lights have a photo slave you can use an on camera flash to fire the strobes. Set the camera on manual set the exposure for the studio lights than set the on camera flash 2 stops under the studio lights exposure and the on camera flash will set off the studio lights and not affect the exposure. You must set the camera on manual. When in the studio I always have my camera on manual.

Go to my profile and you will see a photo of my studio set up for a shoot I have labeled the lights.

04/20/2005 05:34:41 PM · #11

This is what I have in the studio and use:
1x 800w/s broncolor + 6x4 Chimera SB
2x 400w/s broncolor + 3x4 Chimera SB
3x 250w/s opuspro + 3x4 Photoflex SB
1x pocket wizard trigger.

depending on the application, there is a mixture of all this inventory, here's what it looks like:
//www.pbase.com/gilp/image/38760694

04/20/2005 05:36:45 PM · #12

ok here is an example of it... Taken from a site... sorry for the nude but it was what i found... now imagine you can see the light being driven down like it had smoke and you could see the lines the light made... that is what i am thinking.Photo artist ABrito

04/20/2005 05:42:09 PM · #13

You can use a snoot. Alienbees offers this.

Edit: Your on camera would not be good for this picture.

Message edited by author 2005-04-20 17:44:29.

04/20/2005 05:43:34 PM · #14

Originally posted by Plexxoid:

You can use a snoot. Alienbees offers this.

Edit: You're on camera would not be good for this picture.

Is there a way to make this effect with out buying fancy equipment.

04/20/2005 05:44:58 PM · #15

Cut a hole in your roof?

ebertdj

Canon EF 17-35mm f/2.8L

04/20/2005 05:45:11 PM · #16

snoot is best - but if you are in a pinch and can find a narrow beam spotlight - it could do the trick - the shot I posted earlier was with a snoot from the side - it would work great!

04/20/2005 05:46:41 PM · #17

Originally posted by ebertdj:

snoot is best - but if you are in a pinch and can find a narrow beam spotlight - it could do the trick - the shot I posted earlier was with a snoot from the side - it would work great!

The problem is that i do not have any professional lighting just bulbs and hallogen light.

moodville

Nikon D100

04/20/2005 05:46:47 PM · #18

Originally posted by Discraft:

The onboard flash is basically going to shoot from your camera level toward the subject. The general consensus is that the onboard flash sucks. You can use it to trigger other lights if those lights are going to basically clean up the mess of the flash but since you dont have those lights that isnt going to happen. Playing around with settings you could use the flash as a fill flash but in the example you posted that would very likely hurt the shadows.

It depends on what you are shooting but I've gotten that spotlight/cone effect by using a torch and poster board to direct where I want the beams to go. You have to vary the height until you get the shape and intensity you're looking for.

04/20/2005 05:47:15 PM · #19

If you do not want to spend to much money, like under 50$, you can go to the hardware store and by yourself a 2 4x4'fluorescent box (like in office cellings) it will produce enought light for portraits. Using Daylight Delux tubes from sylvania which have the least amount of "green" in them. and because it's constant light, you will be able to compose and meter with your camera.

I know two poeple that use this exact set-up and are very happy with it.

PS, the photo used as an example was done using a Elipsoidal spot (ETC source4) and not a snoot.

Message edited by author 2005-04-20 17:49:12.

moodville

Nikon D100

04/20/2005 05:49:28 PM · #20

Originally posted by Gil P:

Is that instead of using a softbox?

04/20/2005 05:51:14 PM · #21

Originally posted by moodville:

Originally posted by Gil P:
If you do not want to spend to much money, like under 50$, you can go to the hardware store and by yourself a 2 4x4'fluorescent box (like in office cellings) it will produce enought light for portraits. Using Daylight Delux tubes from sylvania which have the least amount of "green" in them. and because it's constant light, you will be able to compose and meter with your camera.

I know two poeple that use this exact set-up and are very happy with it.

Is that instead of using a softbox?

Instead of using flash/softbox or hotlights. Companies Like KinoFlow and Brightline now offer "fluorescent" studio light (mostly for video) but one can achieve similar results with my suggestion (expept that there is a bit more green over cast).

soup

Canon EF 17-40mm f/4.0L USM

04/20/2005 05:54:53 PM · #22

custom white balance should fix that - if all the lamps have the same type of bulbs in them.

Originally posted by GilP:

(expept that there is a bit more green over cast).

04/20/2005 05:57:37 PM · #23

The aliens bees flash unit just trigger as flashes not like strobes right? i am looking at this package which is pretty nice. Digibees

04/20/2005 05:58:13 PM · #24

Originally posted by soup:

custom white balance should fix that - if all the lamps have the same type of bulbs in them.

Originally posted by GilP:
(expept that there is a bit more green over cast).

No not at all.. you cannot correct for the Mired Shift with color balance. the way to do it is to either add a MinusGreen gel (www.leefilters.com) on the fluorescent itself or to use a color card system at the shot level and then correct the TINT in post, once you know the amount of green that needs to be subtracted, you apply this to all shots done with the same set-up.