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04/03/2005 09:32:07 PM · #1 |
Due to a recent mishap resulting in a CD full of unreadable jpegs and crw files I jotted down a few steps to help prevent me from making the same mistake again.
Comments & suggestions appreciated from those who do this routinely.
1. Upload images to archive folder on computer
2. Burn to CD when enough images accrued in archive folder
3. Test CD with archive files for integrity
4. Copy from archive folder to working folder on computer
5. Rename files in working folder to .psd or .tif (edit raw & convert)
6. Create layers in photoshop
7. Edit layers, not orignial background layer & document steps
8. Save to finish folder using .psd or .tif & delete working file
9. Burn finish files to CD when enough images accrue in finish folder
10. Test CD with finish files
Those who wish to discuss particulars of editing flows as opposed to image handling are welcome to add their thoughts as well.
Message edited by author 2005-04-04 10:43:43.
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04/03/2005 09:45:31 PM · #2 |
| if you have that much time, and that many cds, by all means go for it |
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04/03/2005 10:11:14 PM · #3 |
Originally posted by canoe3k:
Due to a recent mishap resulting in a CD full of unreadable jpegs and crw files I jotted down a few steps to help prevent me from making the same mistake again.
Comments & suggestions appreciated from those who do this routinely.
1. Upload images to archive folder on computer
2. Burn to CD when enough images accrued in archive folder
3. Test CD with archive files for integrity
4. Copy from archive folder to working folder on computer
5. Rename files in working folder to .psd or .tif (edit raw & convert)
6. Create layers in photoshop
7. Edit layers, not orignial background layer & document steps
8. Save to finish folder using .psd or .tif & delete working file
9. Burn finish files to CD when enough images accrue in finish folder
10. Test CD with finish files |
Image backup workflow is very good and will minimize losses when the unexpected happens.
You are sketchy on individual image update workflow but I assume you have a specific workflow for that to.
Mine is:
1-Open image, duplicate background layer(usually renamed to 'adjustment'), Rotate image if needed and save as .tif.
2-'Adjustment' layer used for generic things like autocontrast, noise reduction and cloning.
3-Create adjustment layers and apply as needed.
4-Create and apply any needed image specific processing like specialized sky handling, creating and combining layers for specific effects, etc.
5-Add 50% greyscale layer(s) last as needed for dodge, burn, and/or color painting.
6-Save .tif post processed file.
7a-For web: crop, resize, apply USM as needed, add copyright and save around 640 size at 72dpi.
7b-For print: Crop (usually for a standard print aspect), scale to print size (8X10, 12X18, etc) at 300 DPI, apply USM, apply final touchup cloning for haloing and noise removal if needed and save as a flattened print file. Create one print file for each print aspect at largest targeted size.
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04/03/2005 10:18:11 PM · #4 |
Originally posted by stdavidson:
5-Add 50% greyscale layer(s) last as needed for dodge, burn, and/or color painting. |
I'm trying to visualize it in my head, but I can't really "see" it.
How would a 50% grayscale layer help you dodge/burn?
By that u mean a 100% fill and oppacity layer, with 50% grey color?
I not getting that.... |
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04/04/2005 02:09:02 AM · #5 |
Originally posted by scuds:
Originally posted by stdavidson:
5-Add 50% greyscale layer(s) last as needed for dodge, burn, and/or color painting. |
I'm trying to visualize it in my head, but I can't really "see" it.
How would a 50% grayscale layer help you dodge/burn?
By that u mean a 100% fill and oppacity layer, with 50% grey color?
I not getting that.... |
A 50% layer lets everything thru equally, lighten with a brush or other means and that portion is being dodged, darken and it is being burned.
It allows you to make the changes without affecting the original layer -- and without having to flatten layers to make a duplicate to use the standard dodge and burn tools on. Edited to add: This method also allows for infinite changes to the affected areas -- that is, dodged areas can be darkened again and burned areas can be lightened without having to constantly change the original image. Remember, every change results in data loss, so any method that prevents data loss is a good thing.
Here is a pdf from Adobe that gives more details - link.
David
Message edited by author 2005-04-04 02:15:28.
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04/04/2005 02:29:40 AM · #6 |
Originally posted by scuds:
Originally posted by stdavidson:
5-Add 50% greyscale layer(s) last as needed for dodge, burn, and/or color painting. |
I'm trying to visualize it in my head, but I can't really "see" it.
How would a 50% grayscale layer help you dodge/burn?
By that u mean a 100% fill and oppacity layer, with 50% grey color?
I not getting that.... |
Just create a layer, fill it with 50% grey, and change blending to overlay. You'll have an invisible layer because of the overlay, and then just do your dodge/burn on there. Other advantages are that if you make a big booboo, just paint over it with 50% grey and it's gone. And you can adjust the opacity when you're done to finetune how much of the dodge/burn effect you want.
Heh, that's a techniques I just picked up this weekend, pretty awesome for making dodge/burn look natural.
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04/04/2005 02:57:00 AM · #7 |
Originally posted by scuds:
Originally posted by stdavidson:
5-Add 50% greyscale layer(s) last as needed for dodge, burn, and/or color painting. |
I'm trying to visualize it in my head, but I can't really "see" it.
How would a 50% grayscale layer help you dodge/burn?
By that u mean a 100% fill and oppacity layer, with 50% grey color?
I not getting that.... |
Sorry I did not respond. Britannica has it correct.
I learned about this technique for dodge and burn here:
//www.bairarteditions.com/pages/tutorials/photoshop/exdandb.html
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04/04/2005 03:07:02 AM · #8 |
Sounds like a good technique, but it won't respond to the shadows-midtones-highlights anymore, will it?
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04/04/2005 06:15:50 AM · #9 |
Originally posted by gloda:
Sounds like a good technique, but it won't respond to the shadows-midtones-highlights anymore, will it? |
No, the brush tool doesn't have range restriction as an option. However, there are other options for limiting the effect to certain portions of the image. One easy way to achieve the shadow/midtone/highlight capability is to use the 'Blending Options' 'Blend if:' capability to limit the portion of the underlying layer the dodge/burn layer applies to. This does require creating a seperate dodge/burn layer for each different limitation in tonal range, but greater complexity is often the price paid for greater control.
---
But, alas... we seem to have gone astray from the threads intent. :(
@ Original Poster: There are a couple of suggestions I will make to your image backup workflow.
First, keep the images in at least two places at all times. The weak spot in your flow is the initial saving to an archive folder; that is, once you save them to the archive folder they are likely only in one place as your are not likely to keep them on your memory card until you have enough in the archive folder to fill a CD. This creates a point in your backup where you have only one copy (other than when the images exist only on the memory card, of course). To remedy this, I suggest the following steps:
1: Copy card to archive folder.
2: Burn archive folder to CD, leaving the disk open so further sessions may be added.
3: Verify CD against archive folder.
4: Delete from memory card.
5: Copy to working folder.
6: ... cont.
This ensures there are two copies (on two different mediums) at all times. Only once the finished files have been burned to second CD (and verified) should they be deleted from HD.
David
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04/04/2005 07:26:30 AM · #10 |
Thanks Britannica. I don't think I have that option is PSP9 though.
Okay, back to the thread. It occured to me that it might be good to save orignals and vopies not only in separate (sub)folders, but even on different storage mediums. That's a lot of work though. I think it's easier to go with subfolders and have two backups in different real life locations, i.e. in different buildings.
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04/04/2005 10:10:26 AM · #11 |
Actually Im enjoying both discussions, feel free to continue either.
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04/05/2005 05:05:17 AM · #12 |
Originally posted by canoe3k:
Actually Im enjoying both discussions, feel free to continue either. |
Cool.
Originally posted by gloda:
Thanks Britannica. I don't think I have that option is PSP9 though. |
It seemed strange that it wouldn't have it, so I downloaded the trial to find out. The capability is there in the Layer Properties dialog box (click on a layer and use the Layer menu, or right-click on the layer to get to it) -- then go to the Blend Ranges tab. Move the sliders for the underlying layer to include only the range of values you wish to affect.
This feature, btw, is also very useful to protect the extreme edges of the tonal range from changes (such as sharpening). Make the changes on a duplicate layer and restrict the effect by placing a gradual taper at the extremes. This will prevent the highlights from blowing out and prevent the shadows from blocking.
David
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04/05/2005 08:47:34 AM · #13 |
To the worflow issue, a question: How do you have the time to do this, and do you use cd's or dvd's? (Iknow, there's 2 questions) :)
Because, first, I'm affraid of running out of time. To be at 9 o'clock at the grooms house, be in church at 12 o'clock and at the location of picture taking at 13 o'clock, I'll have to be at half past 14 at my office to pass the pictures to pc (it will take some time to do it 4x 1GB Cf card), say 1 hour, do some b&w, some selective desat, say half an hour, go to the lab to print the proofs, I wanto to have the proofs completed at 18 o'clock to do the exposition. So, at least in the same day of the wedding work I can't put myself in to doing al things on your list. How acn you manage it?
If someone is doing this kind of jobs, please post what is your working flow too.
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04/05/2005 09:49:05 AM · #14 |
Another way to maintain two copies, thought not without some risk, is to mirror them on a second hdd. If one hdd fails, you still have the second.
That does not address what happens if you have a fire or some other disaster that destroys the machine. It does, however, address the time issue, since after copying the images from the card, you can simply run a quick backup to the second drive. You could also install the second drive as part of a RAID pair, configured to mirror, but there is a downside to that. If you accidentally delete or overwrite something on one drive it is immediately gone from the second as well. With a backup system, you can still recover from that easily.
I don't recommend backups ysstems that use a proprietary "backup file" format, only ones that create a simple mirror of your directory structure.
Your off-site backup should be a separate part of your workflow, and I'd argue that you really don't have to do the off-site part more than a couple times per week.
An example workflow:
1.) Copy (not move) files from memory card to archive directory.
2.) RAW conversion to working directory
3.) Edit images needed immediately, save to final directory
4.) Run backup in background while printing images
5.) Reformat cards in-camera only after backup is complete
5.) Run off-site backup later at your convenience
I'm sure others may have improvements on this workflow, but this does maintain at least two copies of your files while eliminating significant time spent on backups.
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