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03/30/2005 11:50:04 AM · #1 |
I just ordered tickets for the Toronto Blue Jays vs. New York Yankees and I got great seats behind the Yankee dugout right at first base. The only reason I am going is to take 800+ shots and am looking for some tips(or examples) of great sports images.
My biggest pitfall is my 70-300 f/4-5.6G Nikkor lense (saving for a big boy F/2.8 70-200), however I still expect to get some great shots.
Your expertise and thoughts are much appreciated!!!
Message edited by author 2005-03-30 11:50:31.
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03/30/2005 12:52:00 PM · #2 |
I´m not shure how the D70 is at high ISO but at least keep it at ISO 400, if ISO 800 is acceptable then use that, use as big aperture as you can (5.6 on the longer end) and try to keep shutterspeed at 1/500, if the lighting is good then raise the aperture number if you want a bigger DOF or lower the ISO if you want shallow DOF, just try to match it so the shutterspeed is as close to 1/500 as you can, if you want to freeze tha ball and bat you need to keep the shutterspeed above 1/1000, 1/2000 is very good, but it all depends on the lighting there.
and always shoot burst, 3-5 frames at a time, one of them might catch the moment, but if you only shoot one frame at a time you´ll never catch the moment ;)
try using a tripod, one with a ballhead is best, keep it almost loose so you can adjust the camera while shooting, but let the ball be a little tight so you wont get camerashake.
since I´ve never been to a baseball game, and probably never will, I am not shure what to say more.. these are the settings I use for football (soccer) and t works great :) |
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03/30/2005 01:28:17 PM · #3 |
Thanks Dan...The lighting is pretty good, so I figure with a high ISO I should be able to get the shutter speed up.
Can you share any images of yours from the football matches?
Anyone else with some great tips?
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03/30/2005 01:48:04 PM · #4 |
Good luck with your shots. alansfreed For amazing sports pics have a look through Alansfreed's gallery. It blew me away.
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03/30/2005 02:26:55 PM · #5 |
Originally posted by DanSig:
try using a tripod, one with a ballhead is best, keep it almost loose so you can adjust the camera while shooting, but let the ball be a little tight so you wont get camerashake.
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What kind of camera shake do you get at 1/500 or above at 200mm? |
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03/30/2005 02:31:20 PM · #6 |
Originally posted by Telehubbie:
Originally posted by DanSig:
try using a tripod, one with a ballhead is best, keep it almost loose so you can adjust the camera while shooting, but let the ball be a little tight so you wont get camerashake.
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What kind of camera shake do you get at 1/500 or above at 200mm? |
Possibly plenty. 1500/sec is not that fast for a 300mm lens. The less movement of the camera the sharper the image. The shutterspeed/focal length thing is just a guideline and doesn't completly rule out camera shake blur.
Message edited by author 2005-03-30 14:33:42.
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03/30/2005 02:36:08 PM · #7 |
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03/30/2005 02:39:35 PM · #8 |
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03/30/2005 02:42:30 PM · #9 |
Originally posted by Telehubbie:
Originally posted by DanSig:
try using a tripod, one with a ballhead is best, keep it almost loose so you can adjust the camera while shooting, but let the ball be a little tight so you wont get camerashake.
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What kind of camera shake do you get at 1/500 or above at 200mm? |
I have the 70-200L f2.8 IS and I´ve had camerashake at 1/2000 even with the IS on
if it´s cold and the wind is blowing then it´s qite easy to get some camerashake with a long lens, to use the tripod a a mount for the camera is very wise, it´s rather hard to handhold a camera for up to 2 hours that weighs about the same as 2 sixpacks, the tripod is only to rest the weight and to loose all possible camerashake, you do´nt need to tighten the ballhead to a full lock, just enough so the camera don´t fall on it´s side when you relax.
I have no football pictures on my website at the moment, but will post some when they´re ready :) |
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03/30/2005 02:52:47 PM · #10 |
Sorry, I'm an idiot.
Message edited by author 2005-03-30 14:57:55. |
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03/30/2005 03:16:12 PM · #11 |
Originally posted by Telehubbie:
Sorry, I'm an idiot. |
Welcome to the club.
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03/30/2005 03:17:15 PM · #12 |
Originally posted by faidoi:
Day or night game? |
Night game at the Olympic stadium.
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03/30/2005 04:03:45 PM · #13 |
Originally posted by nsbca7:
Originally posted by Telehubbie:
Originally posted by DanSig:
try using a tripod, one with a ballhead is best, keep it almost loose so you can adjust the camera while shooting, but let the ball be a little tight so you wont get camerashake.
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What kind of camera shake do you get at 1/500 or above at 200mm? |
Possibly plenty. 1500/sec is not that fast for a 300mm lens. The less movement of the camera the sharper the image. The shutterspeed/focal length thing is just a guideline and doesn't completly rule out camera shake blur. |
I doubt they'll let you take a tripod into the ballpark. Even a monopod might be pushing it.
At that distance, try shooting as wide open as possible to eliminate anything distracting in the background. Keep your shutter speed up (minimum of 1/500 to freeze the action, higher is better) and sacrifice ISO if you must. Take a couple practice shots to get the hang of the timing. Even though they advertise no shutter lag on the D70, there is a very brief pause.
If you want to get super picky, dump the camera into MF, shoot in manual mode, and preset your white balance. That way you'll get the full 3 fps burst. If you plan on bursting a lot, shoot in jpeg instead of raw (hence manual mode + preset white balance, nail the exposure once and don't worry about it for the rest of the night).
Some night softball shots w/ the D70 @ 1600 w/ a 180mm from the dugout. The noise is pretty bad but for action shots I don't think it matters too much.
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04/06/2005 09:13:33 AM · #14 |
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04/06/2005 10:15:37 AM · #15 |
You won't get a tripod or a monopod into the regular seating areas at Yankee Stadium, don't even try. And maybe not even a big bag. Your 75-300 will be long enough for almost anything except plays at third base and the far reaches of the outfield. Sports shots usually try to use DoF to isolate the subject from the background so set your camera for the maximum aperture and adjust the ISO to get the desired shutter speed. Baseball stadiums have maximum light areas of batter's box, pitcher's mound, and around second base. There is noticable drop-off as you get deep into the outfield. You might be able to use as slow as 250 for non-action and the slower movements of the game. That would mean a batter would be stopped but his bat would likely show some motion blur. Faster is more desirable if the lighting lets you shoot at low enough ISO to be noise free. 1250 or 1500 will stop a pitch. Your best action opportunities will be at second base when a double play is in progress, and home plate when a runner is sliding in to score. Try to anticipate those situations and have your lens zoomed and prefocused. Sequences of the pitcher in the various stages of his delivery can be cool, a left hander will get more face in them. From that side your can probably get good close-ups of batters returning to the Yankee dugout, maybe some emotion after striking out. Use bursts and don't cut them short, pro sports shooters always say to go one or two frames beyond when you think the action has ended. In baseball there are lots of pauses. Use them to review your shots and make adjustments to your settings.
coolhar's extra bonus pick of the day: If the lighting is good enough to allow more than the minimum DoF, and if you are lucky enough to be sitting in just the right place, a really nice shot from the first base side is looking over the first baseman's shoulder with the pitcher in the background and catching the ball midway on a pickoff throw with a runner sliding back into the bag face first and dirt flying.
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