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02/22/2005 06:31:34 PM · #1 |
I notice alot of people take pictures with exposures longer than one second for some reason when i try this my pictures always come out over exposed maybe iam doing something wrong but i've tried this over 20 cameras which i have access to and still to no avail. Now i'll be honest i havent actually tried this at night only during the day but i've seen over one second exposures during the day that dont come out over expososed am i doing something wrong how could i test this any suggestions thanks alot ..........
Leon
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02/22/2005 06:36:31 PM · #2 |
if you're taking a picture outside, unless the sun is down, you will generally need a fairly fast shutter speed - which is nice, especially if you are taking the picture hand-held, to reduce blur
exposures longer than one second should be used at night, with a tripod of course, to bring out the lights.
a picture taken outside in sunny weather, with an exposure longer than 1 second, will no doubt be overexposed no matter what camera you use.
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02/22/2005 06:49:31 PM · #3 |
I thought i was going nuts i wake up in the middle of the and i think my camera is trying to beat me up j/k so how do i figure out how long the shutter speed should be at nigh trial and error?
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02/22/2005 06:50:55 PM · #4 |
in your portfolio are some very nice landscape shots i saw something like that in the digital photo magazine on page 40 you might wanna go grab that so you can see. how many seconds did you have the shutter open for those ?
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02/22/2005 06:51:43 PM · #5 |
Originally posted by LEONJR:
...so how do i figure out how long the shutter speed should be at nigh trial and error? |
Pretty much
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02/22/2005 06:53:11 PM · #6 |
If you see long exposures taken during daylight, the photog probably used a neutral density (ND) filter to cut down on the amount of light. Let's say that you have a reasonably bright day, and at f/8 your cam tells you that you need 1/125s shutter speed for proper exposure. If you want to use 1 second, you will need to reduce the amount of light entering the lens by a factor of 125!. That's not as difficult as it sounds. Each stop in aperture changes the light by half, so if we change aperture to f/22, that's three stops or an 8x reduction (2x2x2=8). Then we might put on a 3-stop ND filter, now we have reduced it another 8x, for a total of 8x8=64x. we need another 1 stop (125/64 is about 2) so we could add another ND filter, or a polarizer (about 1.5 stop loss) or go to f/32 if it's available. viola, 1 second exposure.
This shot was taken in bright overcast conditions using an ND8 (3-stop) + polarizer. 1.3-second exposure at f/22.
edit:
For small-sensor cams, normally f/11 or so is the smallest available aperture. The solution then is to use a stronger ND filter. 5 stops or more can be necessary. For my ol' Nikon 995, I used to carry a 3-stop and a 2-stop, giving me the flexibility of 2, 3, or 5 stops of exposure reduction.
Message edited by author 2005-02-22 18:56:05.
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02/22/2005 06:58:54 PM · #7 |
Originally posted by kirbic:
This shot was taken in bright overcast conditions using an ND8 (3-stop) + polarizer. 1.3-second exposure at f/22. |
Love that picture. |
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02/22/2005 06:59:29 PM · #8 |
Originally posted by kirbic:
If you see long exposures taken during daylight, the photog probably used a neutral density (ND) filter to cut down on the amount of light. Let's say that you have a reasonably bright day, and at f/8 your cam tells you that you need 1/125s shutter speed for proper exposure. If you want to use 1 second, you will need to reduce the amount of light entering the lens by a factor of 125!. That's not as difficult as it sounds. Each stop in aperture changes the light by half, so if we change aperture to f/22, that's three stops or an 8x reduction (2x2x2=8). Then we might put on a 3-stop ND filter, now we have reduced it another 8x, for a total of 8x8=64x. we need another 1 stop (125/64 is about 2) so we could add another ND filter, or a polarizer (about 1.5 stop loss) or go to f/32 if it's available. viola, 1 second exposure.
This shot was taken in bright overcast conditions using an ND8 (3-stop) + polarizer. 1.3-second exposure at f/22.
edit:
For small-sensor cams, normally f/11 or so is the smallest available aperture. The solution then is to use a stronger ND filter. 5 stops or more can be necessary. For my ol' Nikon 995, I used to carry a 3-stop and a 2-stop, giving me the flexibility of 2, 3, or 5 stops of exposure reduction. |
one again kirbic you've come through for me and cbeller cant forget you! thanks i got try that filter think sounds intresting
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02/22/2005 07:05:07 PM · #9 |
Originally posted by LEONJR:
in your portfolio are some very nice landscape shots i saw something like that in the digital photo magazine on page 40 you might wanna go grab that so you can see. how many seconds did you have the shutter open for those ? |
Thank you...Which one(s) in particular are you talking about?
As for shutter speed, it varies anywhere from 1/1000 to around 1/125 depending on the light.
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02/22/2005 07:05:38 PM · #10 |
this photo was taken in broad daylight
aperture closed down to camera max of f8
iso 80 (slowest setting)
1/3 sec shutter was as slow as I could go and still get detail
this blew the photo out and I liked the look
I edited it by duplicating the layer 3 times set to multiply
with one of the layers darkened slightly with curves
have a look at my profile shots all of the night challenge entries have the shutter time listed
the way I work it out, is using a tripod I start with long exposure and take multiple shots decreasing the time with each shot till the photo is not blown out.
the last one is usually too dark as my camera lcd tends to show a brighter preview than what turns up on my computer
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02/22/2005 07:20:27 PM · #11 |
thats a very good example
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