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02/10/2005 11:58:27 PM · #1 |
Hi,
I have bought this lens for some time now and the last days i have been shooting with it, birds and cityscape, i used a skylighter hama filter on it...
With the filter images get really soft at 300mm so today i tried without the filter and the image improve but still i get the images not very sharp at 300mm i used the double exposure, say like 300mm i would use 1/600. I tried various apertures and still they don't come out straight.
So today i went back to the store i bought it to see if it was still possible to change lens to the Canon 75-300mm IS and wasn't possibled.
The woman that attendid me said that it wasn't a lens problem, that the IS wouldn't make any difference(which i don't agree), she told me to use a ND filter or a Poliriser filter that it would improve things(which i don't agree to), i even should her examples and she came always with these types of excuses...
So here is my question what can i try to improve these weak lens?
Is it really a lens problem, am i doing anything wrong with it?
Image stabilizer is the way to go? Can canon make this exchange for me?
Just need some help anyway. :))
Thanks in advance.
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02/11/2005 12:11:35 AM · #2 |
I take it this is one of the lenses I have. The EF90-300mm 4.5-5.6? I get sharp images but unless you have steady hands I prefer to use a tripod where I can at 300mm (you gotta remember this equates to about 480mm). I've never tried it with a skylight filter though, just a UV and a polariser. But in saying that, I have had some hand held shots at 300mm which have worked very well but obviously with a fast shutter speed. And, handholding at 300mm would make a big difference with an IS lens....silly sales woman! |
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02/11/2005 12:18:26 AM · #3 |
Really silly. :)
But i have tried lots of things and i am not getting the results i would like maybe the problem is really me...
I even tried it with a tripod and guess what, not sharp but soft...
The long exposures just come out a little blurry even with a tripod.
:(
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02/11/2005 12:30:55 AM · #4 |
Originally posted by Discraft: Really silly. :)
But i have tried lots of things and i am not getting the results i would like maybe the problem is really me...
I even tried it with a tripod and guess what, not sharp but soft...
The long exposures just come out a little blurry even with a tripod.
:( |
1. Hama does not make the best filters.
2. What tripod are u using?
3. Canon will not upgrade the lens for you and IS will not help you if you are using a tripod. Personally I wouldn't use IS unless I was on a boat or a train, ect.. because the IS actually has it's own softening effects when it is not needed.
4. What tripod are u using?
5. What tripod are you using.
Your choice of tripod could be making all the difference in the world.
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02/11/2005 12:33:29 AM · #5 |
i am using a slik sdv-30...
I hAve realised that hama is not a very good filter but it's all they sell here in portugal the others are really difficult to find. :( guess i'll have to buy some throught the internet.
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02/11/2005 01:40:43 AM · #6 |
Originally posted by Discraft: i am using a slik sdv-30...
I hAve realised that hama is not a very good filter but it's all they sell here in portugal the others are really difficult to find. :( guess i'll have to buy some throught the internet. |
That can definatly be your problem. Your probably better of holding the camera in your hands then having it mounted on that particular tripod. As a general rule and always to be safe the tripod should be rated to at least twice what the camera/lens combo actually weighs. Your tripod is only rated at 2.65 lbs. or (1.2kg). Slik does make some very good tripods, but the sdv-30 is rated well below what you actually need.
The Slik 330DX is the lightest tripod in the line you should be using for the camera and lens you have. I own a 700DX and it is a very steady tripod if not fully extended while supporting big glass. That would be a better choice.
If you have the money a Bogen or better still a Gitzo rated to at least 7lbs. (3.25 kg) would be a wise investment. A much better investment, dollar for dollar as a means to sharper images, then switching lenses.
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02/11/2005 01:41:10 AM · #7 |
Can you show us some exapmples, both with and without filters?
-Terry
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02/11/2005 01:43:40 AM · #8 |
I just now noticed your post about the tripod.
One important suggestion. Be sure that when you are using the tripod, IS is turned OFF. When the camera is mounted on a tripod, IS works against itself.
-Terry
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02/11/2005 01:50:27 AM · #9 |
Ok i went over the images i noticed that the images are a little more blurry and it isn't really from the filter but from the diference of exposure, since when i tried with the filter i used 4 and when i took the filter i used 1/4 and the image is not so much blurry, so guess i have to really test it with or without filter to see if the results are really diferent, i can post an image that i took at 300mm that is not as sharp is i would like it to be...
If you want it i'll post.
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02/11/2005 01:54:28 AM · #10 |
Were these handheld shots that were blurry? If so, your problem is almost certainly camera shake. IS will typically buy you about a stop or two of stability, but there's just no way you're going to be able to handhold 1/4 second, especially at 300mmm.
-Terry
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02/11/2005 01:56:11 AM · #11 |
nope it was done with a tripod, a slik sdv-30.
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02/11/2005 02:00:06 AM · #12 |
Feel free to post the samples if you like (link or thumbnail them in the forums please). Was IS turned on while the camera was on the tripod?
-Terry
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02/11/2005 02:02:00 AM · #13 |
i don't have a IS lens its the 90-300mm lens. :(
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02/11/2005 02:04:37 AM · #14 |
Here is one of the shots. taken at 1/4 f9.0 iso 100
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02/11/2005 02:18:35 AM · #15 |
Originally posted by Discraft:
Here is one of the shots. taken at 1/4 f9.0 iso 100 |
That looks to me like the comments about the camera being too heavy for your tripod might be on the mark... especially if the problem is more pronounced on longer exposures.
I would also suggest cleaning the glass on both ends of your lens and both sides of your filter, if you haven't done so already.
-Terry
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02/11/2005 09:33:07 AM · #16 |
so what tripod would you suggest?
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02/11/2005 10:06:19 AM · #17 |
Originally posted by Discraft: so what tripod would you suggest? |
How much can you spend?
The tripod is one of the most important tools you can buy that will instantly and noticably improve your photography.
Gitzo, a division of Bogen/Manfrotto, has the reputation as being the best on the market. In addition to the Slik 700DX, which is a good tripod, I aslo use a Gitzo G-2220 Explorer Aluminium. This is a very versatile and steady tripod. The collumn tilts which now seems an invalueable feature for me while doing outdoor macro work. The aluminum model is not much heavier then the carbon fiber model, but costs less then half of the price.
I have this tripod paired with the Gitzo G-1270M Rationnelle Mk2 Magnesium 3-Way Pan/Tilt Head and an Arca/Swiss quick release plate, which for me seems a perfect match. This tripod can be paired with almost any type of head.
This whole setup will run in the nieghborhood of $360 US, but if you are on a budget there are many very good alteratives out there.
I would look at the Pro model Sliks, the Bogen/Manfrottos, or the Gitzos rated at or over 7lbs, and stay away fron brands like Velbon and Cullman.
Message edited by author 2005-02-11 10:33:45.
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02/11/2005 10:23:11 AM · #18 |
I have the 3021bpro legs and 322rc2 head from Bogen Manfrotto. I love this setup.
Decent weight rating, nice height without the center column, gets down flat to the ground, vert/horizontal column mount, 4 angles on the legs, cushions/warmers on 2 of the legs (a literal necessity in Canada), quick release on the head, quick grip on the head, quick locks on the legs, quick removal of center columns, quick friggin everything...
I would say it's definitely the best bang/buck in the Manfrotto line.
Message edited by author 2005-02-11 10:24:13.
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02/11/2005 10:45:13 AM · #19 |
Have you ever used the 75-300mm IS? It's REALLY sloooooow. It's the slowest lens I've ever had the displeasure of using. It was the very first Canon lens to have image stabilization and it all but stops the focus in its tracks..it has a very noticeable lag. Sounds like that's really not what you'd want. The new Canon IS lenses are much faster. |
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02/11/2005 10:56:45 AM · #20 |
Originally posted by Discraft: Hi,
I have bought this lens for some time now and the last days i have been shooting with it, birds and cityscape, i used a skylighter hama filter on it...
With the filter images get really soft at 300mm so today i tried without the filter and the image improve but still i get the images not very sharp at 300mm i used the double exposure, say like 300mm i would use 1/600. I tried various apertures and still they don't come out straight.
So today i went back to the store i bought it to see if it was still possible to change lens to the Canon 75-300mm IS and wasn't possibled.
The woman that attendid me said that it wasn't a lens problem, that the IS wouldn't make any difference(which i don't agree), she told me to use a ND filter or a Poliriser filter that it would improve things(which i don't agree to), i even should her examples and she came always with these types of excuses...
So here is my question what can i try to improve these weak lens?
Is it really a lens problem, am i doing anything wrong with it?
Image stabilizer is the way to go? Can canon make this exchange for me?
Just need some help anyway. :))
Thanks in advance. |
Ebay
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02/12/2005 05:07:26 PM · #21 |
Yesterday i tried the lens in bright daylight and yes the problem must be the tripod... I still used the tripod in daylight but since it was fast enough apertures they cam really sharp... So guess it was my problem to. :)
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02/13/2005 04:12:30 AM · #22 |
Hi-ho,
I've got this same lens, but the USM version, I did quite a bit of testing when I got it, as I was a bit concerned that for the price ($330 NZ, about $140 US) it wouldn't be very good...)
At 90mm at F/4.5 it's great for a consumer zoom, a good potrait lens even. F/8.0 is about as sharp as it gets..
At 300mm F/5.6 it's a little soft, but nothing terrible, although it gets a wee bit of CA at those settings in bright light.. F/7.1 and better is as good as it gets.
Some shots taken with my copy:
Handheld, F/5.6, 1/160th ISO800 at 300mm. (Yes, I've got good nerves)
Handheld, F/8.0, 1/200th, ISO200 at 175mm.
Handheld, F/7.1, 1/1250th, IS200 at 90mm
If you want I can post 100% crops from those, as I realise it's a bit hard to see quality of a lens from the 640 wide images...
Cheers, Chris H
edit: Typo'd
Message edited by author 2005-02-13 04:16:58.
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02/13/2005 09:33:40 AM · #23 |
If you are using a less sturdy tripod and shooting at shutter speeds of 1/4 or longer, then using mirror lock-up with the self-timer would probably make a difference. Both are easy to invoke on the 20D.
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02/13/2005 10:28:17 AM · #24 |
I wouldn't think you'd need a tripod at 300mm and 1/600 of a second. I was shooting yesterday at 300mm and like 1/200 and I did fine. Just pay close attention to holding the lens with your left hand -- I just let it rest there and then when I'm going to snap the shutter, exhale slowly, and click.
I'm using the canon 75-300 non IS btw.
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02/13/2005 10:59:00 AM · #25 |
guys thanks a lot for your help... i now like this lens more than i liked it... it's coming out really nice now... thanks everyone kiwichris thanks for the examples and don't need the 100% crop, but thanks anyway...
I'm going out to shoot some birds, with the camera of course. :) see if i improve my shooting with this lens, at the brids thanks a lot everyone, once again.
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