November Full Moon - DPChallenge Forums

11/26/2004 10:36:11 PM · #1

I have been trying to achieve the crispness in Photoshop (on my moon shots) that rivals the High Sharp Setting in Nikon Editor simply because I loved the results of the Nikon Editor on the 1600x1200 final edits.

I know at 640, that it is hard to determine the real results, but just looking for some opinions on if I have overdone the sharp and USM on the photoshop version.

Message edited by author 2004-11-27 23:41:07.

Kylie

Panasonic Lumix DMC-FZ35

11/26/2004 10:38:29 PM · #2

I am the LAST person on Earth to advise on PS stuff, but here is my personal impression - something does look off. It is too defined, too flat or too sharpened. Don't misunderstand - I like the photos. But something isn't right I think.

11/26/2004 10:49:41 PM · #3

I agree Kylie, having that second opinion helps. I have tried like crazy to get PS to come close to the NE results and I just can't do it. Funny I never thought I'd really have to admit that the free program does something way better than the one I had to sell an arm for.

Tamron AF 28-300mm f/3.5-6.3 XR Di LD Aspherical IF for Canon

11/26/2004 10:57:14 PM · #4

Originally posted by Arcanist:

How about this:

11/26/2004 11:35:10 PM · #5

Just a tweak on the levels?

Tamron AF 28-300mm f/3.5-6.3 XR Di LD Aspherical IF for Canon

11/26/2004 11:52:00 PM · #6

1. Open photograph in PS
2. Click on windows > Layers
3. Right click on background in layers window.
4. Left click on duplicate layer
5. Name duplicate layer contrast mask
6. Click on image> adjustments>desaturate
7. Click on image> adjustments> Invert
8. Click on Filter>blur>guassian blur
9. Set radius at 10.0 pixels
10. In the layers window right click on contrast mask layer> blending options; a box will pop-up. Under Blending options, general blending at top middle click blending mode.
11. Scroll down to overlay and click ok
12. Click on layer [top] menu and go down to bottom and flatten image.

Message edited by author 2004-11-26 23:52:52.

Kylie

Panasonic Lumix DMC-FZ35

11/27/2004 12:58:44 AM · #7

Geez, I wish I could get this stuff! Good job!

11/27/2004 01:05:58 AM · #8

Wow SD, that works really well!
A much larger version is possible this way. Will post update shortly.

Message edited by author 2004-11-27 01:14:46.

Tamron AF 28-300mm f/3.5-6.3 XR Di LD Aspherical IF for Canon

11/27/2004 01:08:13 AM · #9

Originally posted by Arcanist:

Wow SD, that works really well!
A much larger version is possible this way. Will post update shortly.

You are welcome.

11/27/2004 01:26:09 AM · #10

Ok, had to noise ninja and darken abit, then forgot to desat, but finally think I got this right. (Did it three times from memory just to make sure I got the instructions down.) Thanx again this is a new trick I won't forget soon.

Photoshop Inversion Edit

Tamron AF 28-300mm f/3.5-6.3 XR Di LD Aspherical IF for Canon

11/27/2004 01:46:46 AM · #11

Looks better. I think it needs to be a bit brighter.

Here is the one I done last night. Not great but ok with the crop I had to do. I used a 432mm lens and set to self timer w/ tripod to keep from camera shake.

What I would like to do is find out how to adapt my FZ20 to a telescope. I love moon shots and would love to get some great close-ups as others on this site has done.

Message edited by author 2004-11-27 01:49:04.

Ironworker

Nikon D70

Nikon AF Zoom-Nikkor 80-200mm f/2.8D ED

11/27/2004 04:28:37 AM · #12

Originally posted by SDW65:

Not great but ok with the crop I had to do. I used a 432mm lens and set to self timer w/ tripod to keep from camera shake.

What I would like to do is find out how to adapt my FZ20 to a telescope. I love moon shots and would love to get some great close-ups as others on this site has done.

You need a T mount adapter similar to this one You proabaly need some other parts as well. I am in the process of fitting my camera for the telescope I am getting for Xmas. My suggestion would be to take your camera & telescope to your local camera store & ask for help. Or call one the big boys ( B&H, Adorama, etc.), they are glad to assistif you catch them when they aren't swamped.

11/27/2004 09:24:39 AM · #13

Originally posted by SDW65:

Interesting technique. Definitely counter-intuitive to the final result. It does not seem like something you would learn through experimentation alone. How did you come up with it?

Tamron AF 28-300mm f/3.5-6.3 XR Di LD Aspherical IF for Canon

11/27/2004 09:51:34 AM · #14

Another DCP'er showed me how to do this not to long ago. I tried to find the post but couldn't. If I come across it I will post it here. Many thanks to the person that showed me this. It has helped a lot in lighting up and bringing out contrast in some of my photos.

Tamron AF 28-300mm f/3.5-6.3 XR Di LD Aspherical IF for Canon

11/27/2004 09:55:02 AM · #15

Here is the link on how to do Contrast Masking

11/27/2004 10:03:15 AM · #16

Originally posted by SDW65:

Here is the link on how to do Contrast Masking

Thanks!

11/27/2004 10:05:02 AM · #17

Would a contrast mask be legal for advanced editing challenge?

Tamron AF 28-300mm f/3.5-6.3 XR Di LD Aspherical IF for Canon

11/27/2004 10:08:22 AM · #18

Originally posted by cloudsme:

Would a contrast mask be legal for advanced editing challenge?

Yes

11/27/2004 10:52:56 AM · #19

Originally posted by cloudsme:

Would a contrast mask be legal for advanced editing challenge?

Yes... it is applied to the whole image so it would be allowed even in basic editing.

11/27/2004 11:06:06 AM · #20

Originally posted by SDW65:

Here is the link on how to do Contrast Masking

I found the fact that it is a digital darkroom adapted technique from traditional "wet" darkroom film-based photography to be fascinating.

The quality of their sample Antelope Canyon image in the article really was not all that good so I decided to try applying the technique to one of my own images.

Original:

Original with "Contrast Mask" applied:

By chance I have Antelope Canyon images of my own to use. :)

I did no touchup work at all, just applied the technique as is. In my case it brought out noise in the shaded area that would have to be dealt with. I did not try removing it because I wanted to see exactly what the effect would be. In my example I chose 30(Their upper recommended limit) for gaussian blur.

11/27/2004 10:50:17 PM · #21

I don't think you can use it in basic editing. The Layers rule says adjustment layers may only be applied in normal mode. This technique uses the overlay mode. It doesn't say anything in advanced editing about layers at all. Does this mean the basic editing rule for layers applies, or there are no layer rules?

11/27/2004 11:40:34 PM · #22

uh yup clouds...yous right on that basic thing:

Excerpt Basic Editing Rules:
Layers: Only adjustment layers may be used, and the layer must be applied in normal mode. All other types of layers and all other blending methods (modes) are prohibited. Layers may not be used to apply a prohibited effect to an image.

11/28/2004 12:24:15 AM · #23

So how about advanced editing? Do you still think its legal?

11/28/2004 08:17:24 AM · #24

bump