| Author | Thread |
|
|
03/18/2010 01:31:16 AM · #1 |
I have a canon 5D mrk II and am new to long exposure night photography... as in I want to try it, but I can only figure out how to change the shutter speed to a max length of 30 seconds and I don't fancy holding the shutter button on bulb for 10 minutes ;P
What am I missing??? |
|
|
|
03/18/2010 01:35:42 AM · #2 |
| I shoot with an Olympus and I bought a cheap remote on amazon that let's me push one button to open the shutter and another one to close it when in BULB. I don't know if Canon has a similar device but it might be worth checking out. I paid a grand total of $10 for it shipped. :) |
|
|
|
03/18/2010 01:45:09 AM · #3 |
go to M mode and change the shutter speed past 1/8000 until it goes to 'bulb'.
Then as long as the shutter is held, the shutter will be open. Or, as Tehben pointed out, you can buy a cheap remote that functions as he described.
The camera came with a manual right? |
|
|
|
03/18/2010 01:59:21 AM · #4 |
Originally posted by Tez:
go to M mode and change the shutter speed past 1/8000 until it goes to 'bulb'.
Then as long as the shutter is held, the shutter will be open. Or, as Tehben pointed out, you can buy a cheap remote that functions as he described.
The camera came with a manual right? |
Did you read my post?
I know how BULB works but I want to know how to open the shutter and leave it open without having to hold it.
The camera did come with a manual which I read but don't recall it explaining how to do this.
I will look into remotes. |
|
|
|
03/18/2010 02:04:48 AM · #5 |
Yeah you need a remote. This is the one I have. The build quality isn't great but it works and you can't beat 5 bucks!
Message edited by author 2010-03-18 02:06:05. |
|
|
|
03/18/2010 02:12:51 AM · #6 |
Like Tez mentioned, you'll need to shoot in Manual mode. In order to get to the Bulb shutter speed, you'll need to go one click past 30" (30 seconds). A remote shutter release with a shutter lock is vital. The one I use most is //www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/164276-REG/Canon_2476A001_Remote_Switch_RS_80N3.html Oh, and maybe pick up a cheap stopwatch while you're at it. :) Or if you want to get really fancy, you can go with //www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/164271-REG/Canon_2477A002_Timer_Remote_Controller_TC_80N3.html
Message edited by author 2010-03-18 02:13:06. |
|
|
|
03/18/2010 02:26:12 AM · #7 |
Thanks guys, I understand how it works now :)
Have to make sure the remote has SHUTTER LOCK
My 5D mrk II however has BULB (B) on the mode dial, if you go to manual and scroll past 1/8000 as Tez said or one click past 30" as cutlassdude70 pointed out it doesn't seem to go to BULB....
Message edited by author 2010-03-18 02:26:47. |
|
|
|
03/18/2010 02:49:21 AM · #8 |
| I just ordered a TC-80N3 knock off on ebay... will see how it works once it arrives. |
|
|
|
03/18/2010 04:00:28 AM · #9 |
| Only catch this thread now. Glad you got it and you wont be sorry. I use it for lightning and it frees you to focus on the surroundings and happenings. I went out last night again and got some exciting shots. The lock function frees the fingers and with it your brain..but dont loose count of time for the xposure. The more you do it...you will be counting the seconds exactly in your head without having to look at the screen display. Its fun and enjoy |
|
|
|
03/20/2010 01:41:52 AM · #10 |
Originally posted by tehben:
Thanks guys, I understand how it works now :)
Have to make sure the remote has SHUTTER LOCK
My 5D mrk II however has BULB (B) on the mode dial, if you go to manual and scroll past 1/8000 as Tez said or one click past 30" as cutlassdude70 pointed out it doesn't seem to go to BULB.... |
Ya. Bulb is on the mode dial not Manual mode. Don't forget to enable mirror lock up, Custom Function III Autofocus/Drive. Scroll till you see mirror lock up. |
|
|
|
03/20/2010 03:38:49 AM · #11 |
Originally posted by bspurgeon:
.... Don't forget to enable mirror lock up, Custom Function III Autofocus/Drive. Scroll till you see mirror lock up. |
I read somewhere that mirror lock-up is only effective between 1/80 to 1/2 sec (approx.) The way it was stated I remember it made sense at the time.
|
|
|
|
03/20/2010 09:36:43 AM · #12 |
Originally posted by MichaelC:
Originally posted by bspurgeon:
.... Don't forget to enable mirror lock up, Custom Function III Autofocus/Drive. Scroll till you see mirror lock up. |
I read somewhere that mirror lock-up is only effective between 1/80 to 1/2 sec (approx.) The way it was stated I remember it made sense at the time. |
You know, that's a good point. I'm accustomed to using mirror lock up when on a tripod and for long exposures, but I suppose an exposure on the order of, say, a minute or longer, it probably does not make a difference. Maybe somebody else will chime in. |
|
|
|
03/20/2010 09:36:44 AM · #13 |
Originally posted by MichaelC:
Originally posted by bspurgeon:
.... Don't forget to enable mirror lock up, Custom Function III Autofocus/Drive. Scroll till you see mirror lock up. |
I read somewhere that mirror lock-up is only effective between 1/80 to 1/2 sec (approx.) The way it was stated I remember it made sense at the time. |
You know, that's a good point. I'm accustomed to using mirror lock up when on a tripod and for long exposures, but I suppose an exposure on the order of, say, a minute or longer, it probably does not make a difference. Maybe somebody else will chime in. |
|
|
|
03/20/2010 10:08:44 AM · #14 |
Originally posted by bspurgeon:
You know, that's a good point. I'm accustomed to using mirror lock up when on a tripod and for long exposures, but I suppose an exposure on the order of, say, a minute or longer, it probably does not make a difference. Maybe somebody else will chime in. |
Correct. Whatever vibration is triggered in the camera by mirrors slap is very slight, and once the exposure goes longer than a certain point (I have always figured 5 seconds) it's an insignificant component of the overall exposure. Instinct tells me that you might want to err on the side of caution if your shot has point sources of light in it, however.
R. |
|
|
|
03/20/2010 10:59:24 AM · #15 |
Originally posted by bspurgeon:
Originally posted by MichaelC:
Originally posted by bspurgeon:
.... Don't forget to enable mirror lock up, Custom Function III Autofocus/Drive. Scroll till you see mirror lock up. |
I read somewhere that mirror lock-up is only effective between 1/80 to 1/2 sec (approx.) The way it was stated I remember it made sense at the time. |
You know, that's a good point. I'm accustomed to using mirror lock up when on a tripod and for long exposures, but I suppose an exposure on the order of, say, a minute or longer, it probably does not make a difference. Maybe somebody else will chime in. |
Anyone know of any sites that prove this point with actual tests? |
|
|
|
03/20/2010 03:39:47 PM · #16 |
Originally posted by Bear_Music:
Originally posted by bspurgeon:
You know, that's a good point. I'm accustomed to using mirror lock up when on a tripod and for long exposures, but I suppose an exposure on the order of, say, a minute or longer, it probably does not make a difference. Maybe somebody else will chime in. |
Correct. Whatever vibration is triggered in the camera by mirrors slap is very slight, and once the exposure goes longer than a certain point (I have always figured 5 seconds) it's an insignificant component of the overall exposure. Instinct tells me that you might want to err on the side of caution if your shot has point sources of light in it, however.
R. |
Here's a good example or "Proof" of this behavior:
Notice that the much dimmer stars averaged out over the length of the exposure (13 seconds), while the 120mm round's tracer wobbles very noticeable in the first part of the shot and dampens down to no vibration after about half the trajectory.
Here's a full size to pixel peep... (If you do go pixel peeping here, any idea what the heck that row of dots above the tank round is? I'm guessing they are internal reflections off of the lens elements, largely because there are roughly the same number of dots as elements in my lens...)
***************
ETA: This was absolutely NOT caused by mirror slap.. This is 100% "I pushed the button on the camera" based shake.. For the record, this method was working just fine until I missed the timing on a round and it was above the horizon before I was able to start the exposure.
Message edited by author 2010-03-20 15:47:19. |
|
Home -
Challenges -
Community -
League -
Photos -
Cameras -
Lenses -
Learn -
Prints! -
Help -
Terms of Use -
Privacy -
Top ^
DPChallenge, and website content and design, Copyright © 2001-2024 Challenging Technologies, LLC.
All digital photo copyrights belong to the photographers and may not be used without permission.
Current Server Time: 04/24/2024 02:05:32 AM EDT.
