Film question - DPChallenge Forums

10/06/2009 06:49:30 PM · #1

I realize that this is Dpcchallenge.com but since most of you seem to have been into photography for quite awhile now I figured you might know the answer to some of my film questions.

I just bought an old canon film camera and I'm looking forward to trying my luck at film. I was wondering if it was possible to switch rolls of film mid-roll and then go back to the original roll where I left off without ruining any frames. I'd like to go from color film to black and white film then back. Is this possible or should I just use my digital camera for color photos?

Thanks
Justen

Jaded_Housewife

Canon EOS-5D

10/06/2009 06:51:14 PM · #2

This may be possible. I don't know..but maybe just get another film camera(there are tons of very cheap ones out there) and have one loaded with b@w and one with color?? just an idea.

10/06/2009 06:57:32 PM · #3

We used to do it. Here's the procedure:

1: shoot with Film A. When you're ready to shoot with Film B, note the number on the exposure counter.

2: when you're ready to switch to Film B, CAREFULLY rewind Film A until you hear/feel the film leaving the first sprocket.

3. remove film A from the camera and put a bit of tape on the canister with the exposure count on it.

4. shoot with film B, when/if you need to switch back to Film A repeat above steps for Film B.

5. reload film A, and PUT THE LENS CAP ON.

6. advance Film A to 2 PAST THE COUNT INDICATED by shooting each frame WITH THE LENS CAP ON AT F/32 AND 1/1000.

7. proceed to shoot as normal, removing the lens cap of course.

Hope this helps...

R.

Message edited by author 2009-10-06 19:32:09.

Canon EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS USM

10/06/2009 07:28:11 PM · #4

WORD YO

good skilz there Bear

his advice is sound !

ETA : hmmm - something about a boat made me type that way... forgive me :)

Photologist

Apple iPhone 14 Pro Max

10/06/2009 07:30:33 PM · #5

Originally posted by soup:

WORD YO

good skilz there Bear

his advice is sound !

ETA : hmmm - something about a boat made me type that way... forgive me :)

T-soup...Ha! LOL!! :D

10/06/2009 07:40:07 PM · #6

i love T-soup !!!!

T-soup tonight - with grilled cheese and bacon - word yo.

oh yeah. besure not to lose the markers ( tape ) on the rolls when you reload. - and/or ammend the markers so you know what part of the film is what.

10/06/2009 07:47:17 PM · #7

Originally posted by soup:

Put the marker tape on the CANISTERS, not the rolls...

R.

10/06/2009 07:56:53 PM · #8

i marked the rolls... ( well the canister ) of the roll. not on the film !!!!

10/06/2009 08:06:41 PM · #9

I did just get the camera in a few days ago and it did not come with a manual but I don't think I have manual rewind. Is there a way to stop the film from rewinding all the way in? Or is that what you meant by listening for it and stopping it fast enough? How hard is it to get the timing right? I might just buy a cheap rebel for $10 if it's pretty tricky.

10/06/2009 08:13:03 PM · #10

the camera you've got isn't ' That ' old...

what's the model of the camera ?

Message edited by author 2009-10-06 20:13:44.

Canon EF 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6 DO IS USM

10/06/2009 08:16:43 PM · #11

Originally posted by JEason:

I wouldn't want to try this on a camera that didn't have manual rewind...

R.

cpanaioti

Canon EOS-40D

10/06/2009 08:30:00 PM · #12

Originally posted by JEason:

That is possible with some of the Canon cameras. There's a button on the back for midroll rewind which will rewind the film with the leader left out so you can reload it later. As Robert said, remember the frame number where you left off then follow from step 6 (his instructions).

I know the Elan II has this feature. I don't know if the Rebel does.

10/06/2009 08:34:24 PM · #13

seems a lead on question...

what's the model of the camera... ?

It's on the front...

look up the manual on the internet.

sorry to be a prick - but your lack of specifics is kind of - well - obscure.

Nikon AF-S NIKKOR 24-70mm f/2.8G ED

10/07/2009 08:49:47 AM · #14

It's the EOS 620. Released in 1987. Not that old but still a year older than me.

One of the manuals I looked at says that the film automatically rewinds at the end of the roll or I can press the rewind button to rewind it during the middle of the roll. So if I press the button it will leave the leader out? The manual didn't say anything like that and I just want to make sure.

alanfreed

Nikon D6

10/07/2009 09:04:49 AM · #15

Most film cameras have *some* sort of manual way of rewinding film, even if there's an automatic mechanism. You could still "rewind" it by going into a totally dark room... open up the back of the camera in the dark, carefully take the film out of the camera and manually wind it back into the cartridge (leaving a short tail so you can re-insert it into the camera later).

It won't be a fun task, and if there's any light in the room at all, you're gonna cloud your negatives. When you're winding the film, you'll want to keep it very tight because any time you let go of the spindle, it'll loosen up in the cartridge and you'll have to wind and wind and wind to tighten it back up to the point where you can retract it.

Again, not fun, but it is possible.

To answer your question... if you push the button, it will most certainly NOT leave a leader for you... it'll definitely suck the whole film into the cartridge. EDIT: Someone else posted a note above that some cameras will rewind and leave a leader. I've never personally seen such a thing. I would still highly doubt that it would leave a leader... but I could be wrong.

Originally posted by JEason:

One of the manuals I looked at says that the film automatically rewinds at the end of the roll or I can press the rewind button to rewind it during the middle of the roll. So if I press the button it will leave the leader out? The manual didn't say anything like that and I just want to make sure.

Message edited by author 2009-10-07 09:07:41.

Simms

Canon EOS-5D Mark II

Canon EF 24-70mm f/2.8L USM

10/07/2009 09:17:39 AM · #16

Just tested this method on my digital camera and it also works great!

Just make a note on the CF card which one is black and white and which is colour, make sure you change cards with the lens cap fitted - and switch between B&W mode and colour mode depending on what card you have in..

great advice!

cpanaioti

Canon EOS-40D

Canon EF 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6 DO IS USM

10/07/2009 09:24:55 AM · #17

Originally posted by JEason:

Check the custom functions. One of them is to leave the leader out when rewinding.

scarbrd

Leica M10

Leica 35mm f/1.4 Summilux M Aspherical MF - Black

10/07/2009 09:54:49 AM · #18

Originally posted by Simms:

LOL

Mephisto

Nikon Coolpix A

Panasonic Lumix G 14mm F2.5 ASPH

10/07/2009 10:13:12 AM · #19

Don't know about this rewinding method on 35mm cam's (it sounds rather hazardeous to me...) but many medium format cameras have exchangable backs so you can switch between b&w and color film or different iso's with just one single flick...
Which is the reason why i got the newer Mamiya 645 Pro instead of the older m645 models that don't have exchangable film backs.

10/07/2009 10:54:38 AM · #20

Originally posted by Mephisto:

Yah, Hasselblad, Mamiya, Bronica, they all have/had interchangeable backs, which is/was cool beans for working pros, albeit a fairly expensive proposition for the average amateur. Actually, one of the MAIN benefits of the interchangeable back is so you can keep shooting without interruption while your assistant puts in fresh film and labels the exposed film. Everyone DOES have an assistant, right? Jejeje�

Anyway, I digress... For the ultimate in film-changing versatility, get a sheet-film camera (4x5, 5x7, 8x10) and fiddle to your heart's content... Or am I still digressing? Yup!

More to the point, there's nothing especially "hazardous" involved in the 35mm rewinding-mid-roll operation, as long as you A) have the capability of leaving the leader out (and if you DON'T leave it out, no harm done except you can't use the rest of that roll, and as we used to say "film is cheap" though I guess it's not anymore), B) make SURE to mark the canister legibly, C) have an absolutely consistent lead-in procedure (always close the back with the first sprocket on the top of the film engaged and always use the same number of advances to take the film to its start point), D) Always advance the film to 2 BEYOND where you left it to have a margin of safety, and E) remember to put the lens cap on tight while doing all the above!

Complicated, maybe, but not really. Once it becomes a routine it goes REAL fast. Of course, an even FASTER routine is to have two bodies and switch them out on different films. Your assistant can take care of that for you too: your assistant can do everything while you take all the credit and the lion's share of the bucks :-)

R.

Dan_Cottle

Canon EOS-350D Rebel XT

Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II

10/07/2009 11:13:36 AM · #21

If you have automatic rewind that is not able to stop with the leader out then you can use a leader extractor tool to pull it back out. Its pretty simple and you should be able to get one for a couple dollars at a old camera store. All you do is slide the tool in then wind the film backwards untill it jumps over it then wind forwards and it pushes the leader out.

MelonMusketeer

Nikon D7000

Nikon MF 50mm f/1.4

10/07/2009 11:19:47 AM · #22

Here are a couple of things that I remember about doing this.
1, Be very careful when rewinding, as sometimes you can't feel the end of the film come off the sprocket, and will rewind it too far. If you hold the camera back to your ear as you rewind, you can usually hear the tick as the end flips off the sprocket.
2, If you do the oops and wind it into the canister, they used to make a film retriever widget, a curved pair of small metal plates with a little hook for the sprocket holes. You may be able to make one from a soda can if you are handy with tools and gadgets. It does not have to be this exact to work: B&H Film Retriever
3, Don't forget to put the box tab or a note about what kind of film is in the camera in the clip on the back of the camera.

I used to write @14 or something similar in small lettering, using a Sharpie marker, on the actual film start tab before putting it back in my bag. If you are concerned about the ink during processing, the lettering can be cut off if you put it right at the start of the loading tab. I never had any problem with the ink.
The best solution is to have two camera bodies that use the same lenses if you want to shoot multiple films. I used to keep one loaded with B&W, one with high ASA, and a third with low ASA.

Pentax DA 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 AF

10/07/2009 01:25:27 PM · #23

Why didn't I think about my assistant?! I'll just hand him the camera and have him do all the work... (It must be nice...)

I appreciate all of the suggestions and right now I just need to make the decision as to what best suits my needs. Two bodies would be nice and a lot less work and that is where I'm leaning towards right now, if I can get over having to lug two bodies around.

paynekj

Pentax K10D

10/07/2009 01:40:25 PM · #24

On a slightly different tangent, have you investigated whether it's possible to get shorter films? It used to be possible to get 12 and 24 exposure films. That way you could probably finish a film before swapping over.