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06/19/2008 11:58:25 PM · #1 |
| I just bought a canon 5D, I didnt used much it in "natural light" (only flashes) until today. I had a job at a little music recital, the light was low but it was not very dark... I had taken pictures (with my 350) in similar light conditions at ASA 800, f8.0 and 60, but today my camara even in ASA 1600, and f4 was asking me for a 10 (or more)... Horrible `cause of course being a recital the people was moving so half of my pictures are blurry (and I don`t like direct flash and my position was not well ubicated to rebound the light in a wall) ... What happened??? Is there something wrong with my lenses, the camara exposimeter or it is normal? I had to shoot in raw and hope I have at least 50 decent pictures to show :( |
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06/20/2008 12:20:40 AM · #2 |
Do you have exposure compensation turned down? I did that once when I first got my 5D. It made me miss a good photo op of a bald eagle grabbing a fish out of the water. I got the shot, but it was very underexposed.
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06/20/2008 12:22:53 AM · #3 |
You might want to check the EXIF data on your images ... I have doubts about shooting indoors at 1/60th at f/8 and ISO 800. That would be a pretty darn bright recital, I would think.
I don't know what you mean about your camera asking you for "a 10 or more". Maybe you meant 1/10th of a second? That wouldn't surprise me too much at ISO 1600 and f/4. A faster lens is almost mandatory indoors. I do a lot of shooting at f/2.8 and even then I'm often forced to use flash (though I typically bounce the light off of the ceilings).
Anyway, I suspect you are mis-remembering the first part (1/60th, f/8 and ISO 800). Either that, or the room then was a lot brighter than the one you were in today. |
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06/20/2008 12:36:10 AM · #4 |
800, f8, and 1/60 sounds about right for a room well lit with florescent lights and low ceiling. Your eyes are compensating for the darkness at the recital. The 1/10 sec @ f4 and 1600 is ballpark for a room or stage with subdued lighting. To shoot that situation with existing light, you would need more aperture for sure. I have an old 50mm f1.4 and an 85 1.8 that I use for the lowest light shooting, and even then, sometimes I underexpose a little on purpose to stop action.
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06/20/2008 12:39:36 AM · #5 |
I think dwterry is right...somthing like that I would be looking to start at F2.8 iso400 and 1/20th with a vr lens or 1/40th without.
Im sitting 3 feet from my monitor and at F8 my Nikon wants ISO3200 and 1/10th metering the monitor!! |
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06/20/2008 01:14:47 AM · #6 |
Mick, how do you turn the exposure compensation?
Mmmm... I guess the one that is wrong its me then (I dont usually do indoor light works so it`s hard for me to know what´s normal anymore,,, I do everithing with flashes)I`ve checked the other pictures but there are some that are at 1600,f8 1/80! and the ceiling was very high actually, it was a more lighted space tough but I guess that everyting has to do with my eyes compensation and nothing with the camera... And I do need a new lense with more aperture, the one I was using today was a 4-5.6 :S (that`s why I dont do event photography) Thanks guys! I was worried that the camera was broken or something :D |
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06/20/2008 01:47:14 AM · #7 |
Originally posted by Gaby_G:
Mick, how do you turn the exposure compensation?
Mmmm... I guess the one that is wrong its me then (I dont usually do indoor light works so it`s hard for me to know what´s normal anymore,,, I do everithing with flashes)I`ve checked the other pictures but there are some that are at 1600,f8 1/80! and the ceiling was very high actually, it was a more lighted space tough but I guess that everyting has to do with my eyes compensation and nothing with the camera... And I do need a new lense with more aperture, the one I was using today was a 4-5.6 :S (that`s why I dont do event photography) Thanks guys! I was worried that the camera was broken or something :D |
You adjust exposure compensation with the large dial on the back of the camera. It effects Program AE (P), Shutter-priority AE (Tv), and Aperture-priority AE (Av) modes. To cancel exposure compensation, turn the dial until the exposure level (in the viewfinder) is centered in the index.
When I goofed up my photo I was shooting in manual exposure mode and then switched to aperture-priority. In manual mode, the wheel adjusts the aperture. When I switched to Av I turned the wheel thinking that it would adjust the aperture, but of course it adjusted the expsore compensation. I was in a hurry to capture the shot and didn't realize what I had done until afterwards. How often does a person get a chance to photograph a bald eagle snatching a large fish out of the water anyway? :)
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06/20/2008 06:51:55 AM · #8 |
Shoot in RAW or RAW + Large JPEG mode. That will help with both exposure issues and white balance. You wont have to deal with exposure compensation, for instance. And you can recover important shots that you might have under or over exposed. The 5D works very well even at ISO1600 in these dim conditions (I use mine regularly at recitals and concerts). Usually, I attend practice sessions before the concert during which I can mount flash units to gantry lights etc and I can get nice face and instrument shots. But in the recital itself I have to use non flash means. It certainly helps a great deal to have a fast lens - by fast I mean the 24-70mm f/2.8 at minimum. I usually also carry my 350XT and put a 135mm f/2.0 on it. The 350XT is noisy at ISO800 though. But usually good enough for personal close up shots. The fast lens is your next purchase because the 5D deserves that - unless you plan on sticking to outdoor landscape style shooting.
I'm assuming you shoot in manual mode. If not, disregard all I said in this note.
Message edited by author 2008-06-20 12:23:26. |
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06/20/2008 11:21:28 AM · #9 |
Was there a black background and you were set on spot meter mode? That can make a big difference in what the camera thinks is the right exposure. However, you'd probably get an overexposed shot if that was the case.
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