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DPChallenge Forums >> Tips, Tricks, and Q&A >> Studio lights?
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11/25/2003 05:52:23 AM · #1
Hi,

After having read some sites on the web as to how to built a small indoor studio etc (thanks Kiwi ;o)) it's still not clear to me what kind of lights I actually need? Let's say I've got this 'mini studio', how many Watt does my halogen light(s) need to have?

Any help is appreciated :o)
11/25/2003 06:03:53 AM · #2
Originally posted by SoulHunter74:

Hi,

After having read some sites on the web as to how to built a small indoor studio etc (thanks Kiwi ;o)) it's still not clear to me what kind of lights I actually need? Let's say I've got this 'mini studio', how many Watt does my halogen light(s) need to have?

Any help is appreciated :o)


Someone else (Kiwi?) probably has a better suggestion for you, but I can tell you the following.

To tell you the truth, it really shouldn't matter what watt light source you use. Some people here use a 60watt incandescent light, while others use 500 watt shop lights. Still others have studio lighting and the whole works. Since you have a digital camera, you should be able to experiment with numerous inexpensive light sources to create different effects.

Of course if you're trying to stop water strictly using a high shutter speed (as opposed to using flash), you'll need a fairly bright light source.
11/25/2003 04:08:44 PM · #3
Originally posted by Quadrajet:

To tell you the truth, it really shouldn't matter what watt light source you use. Some people here use a 60watt incandescent light, while others use 500 watt shop lights. Still others have studio lighting and the whole works. Since you have a digital camera, you should be able to experiment with numerous inexpensive light sources to create different effects.


To save yourself some frustration, brighter is usually better and try to work with lights that are all the same unless you are going for a particular effect.

To clarify, while a 60w light is more than doable for a still life, after all you can just use a longer exposure, for something with any movement you'll want to get a much brighter light. Your local home improvement store should carry tons of 150w lights and if you dig around you may be able to find a small variety of 300w lights. These get very hot and are generally recommended for outdoor use so be careful in what fixture you use them and for how long. About using all the same type of light, unless you are going for a special effect it is easier to use all the same bulbs. They all give off slightly different colored light. It's easier to get a good white balance if you start off with the same general hues coming from all the bulbs rather than a mix.
11/25/2003 04:41:20 PM · #4
I have tried several different variations of a studio setup and am now in the process of building a shoot table out of PVC pipe.

I'll see about documenting the process. Right now I'm testing some lighting ideas to see how they work for me. My main concern right now is finding a cool light to work under. So halogens and incandescents will be to hot for what I want. I have tried a daylight adjusted flourescent but it does not give off enough light (the color was good though). The flourscents may be good for soft lighting over head but I also want to direct my light as needed.

Message edited by author 2003-11-25 16:45:25.
11/25/2003 05:51:11 PM · #5
Originally posted by Jason:

..... My main concern right now is finding a cool light to work under. .....


What are you shooting that requires cool lights? Food? Animals/insects?
11/25/2003 06:27:37 PM · #6
There are several varieties of small halogen and fluorescent lighting I've been thinking about trying to augment the patchwork of ligts I use right now, such as these halogen disk lights. My thought is to line the inside of my box with these to provide a solid all-over ligth coverage, then be able to spotlight using other lights.
11/25/2003 06:59:54 PM · #7
Originally posted by Jason:

My main concern right now is finding a cool light to work under.


If you want cool lights, studio strobes are the way to go.

One of the biggest problems with flourescents is the way they emit light in only discontinuous segments of the spectrum.
11/25/2003 07:08:44 PM · #8
I have studio strobes right now and soft boxes which I will still be using but in addition I want lights that can be turned on and left on.

I want to start playing with colored light filters and try different lighting techniques.

As far as why I want to work under cool lights... the main reason is halogens are just hot and they tend to heat up my room after awhile and generally make it uncomfortable.

Message edited by author 2003-11-25 19:09:14.
11/25/2003 08:08:42 PM · #9
Originally posted by Jason:

I have studio strobes right now and soft boxes which I will still be using but in addition I want lights that can be turned on and left on.

I want to start playing with colored light filters and try different lighting techniques.

As far as why I want to work under cool lights... the main reason is halogens are just hot and they tend to heat up my room after awhile and generally make it uncomfortable.


You can use the modelling lights on your strobes, but there is no good light source that doesn't produce heat, the brighter the light, the more heat they put out. Thermodynamics is against you. Even Strobes, the reason they are cool is that the light pulse is so short. Maybe if you hooked up a room air conditioner in the window, you could fight the heat.

If you want, I'll trade you my clamp on Home Depot special lights for your strobes....

Message edited by author 2003-11-25 20:11:15.
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