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DPChallenge Forums >> Individual Photograph Discussion >> Ill ask again.
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 07/20/2006 10:09:20 PM · #1
Seem`s like they blanked out the first time i asked this...But ill ask again.After having a Canon pro 1 for about 2 years I decided to purchase a 20D with a 17-85 and 10-22 lens.After blowing up many photo`s its seems like my Pro1 has better picture quality.Is there a reason for this ? OK its not a $1500.00 Len`s on my 20D ,but my pro 1 was only $600.00 ?
 07/20/2006 10:10:51 PM · #2
is the 17-85 on the canon come with the body? Cuz i personally find that one to be a very upsetting lens.
 07/20/2006 10:11:27 PM · #3
Are you doing any post-processing? How are you blowing them up?

Photos from a p&s typically are better straight from the camera than those from a dslr which are intended to be processed.
 07/20/2006 10:12:46 PM · #4
Originally posted by Maxx1676:
Seem`s like they blanked out the first time i asked this...But ill ask again.After having a Canon pro 1 for about 2 years I decided to purchase a 20D with a 17-85 and 10-22 lens.After blowing up many photo`s its seems like my Pro1 has better picture quality.Is there a reason for this ? OK its not a $1500.00 Len`s on my 20D ,but my pro 1 was only $600.00 ?

What quality are you shooting at? I blew up the images for my Rebel300D (6MP vs 8 of the 20D) to 16X20s with no problem and could have gone higher. But I shoot RAW.

edit to add I also post process specifically for printing.

Message edited by author 2006-07-20 22:13:36.
 07/20/2006 10:13:16 PM · #5
i dont use that lens cuz i just think it has poor quality. so i couldnt tell you how i blow it up, but i would concider getting a nicer lens, i like my tamron alot.
 07/20/2006 10:19:23 PM · #6
An Oldie but goodie...tells it all



I too went from Pro1 to 20D... if you don't like Post-P then you need to crank up the Parms in the camera... Try Preset 2 and if that isn't sharp engough Tweak the Custom Parms.
 07/20/2006 10:22:41 PM · #7
So call prosumer or p & s cmaeras look better without much post-processing. Going dSLR requires that you do some extra work after taking the picture. You get more flexibility of outcome instead of having the camera do all the work (RAW).
 07/20/2006 10:54:11 PM · #8
Pro1 is a 8mp camera with L glass. Photo quality isn't going to be much better with a 20D and consumer glass.
 07/21/2006 12:27:07 AM · #9
The 10-22 is a quality lens, and you'll be able to get images equal to, or better than, the Pro 1 with it. If you want shots straight from the camera that are closer to what you got with your old camera, I'd suggest that you experiment with the Parameter settings. Make up some custom sets and shoot with variations until you find what you like. However most DSLR shooters either migrate to RAW shooting, or use the lowest possible settings for jpeg's and then do the adjustments in post processing to bring out the best in a file. The theory being that you have more control over the parameter elements if you do it in an editing program than if you just use the camera's settings. As you become more familiar with your new 20D you can fine tune the parameter sets to get your images as close as possible to the way you like them and leave yourself less work in post.
 07/21/2006 09:02:27 AM · #10
Originally posted by dahkota:


edit to add I also post process specifically for printing.


Dahkota,
Just sent you a PM about PP for printing.

Thanks,
Josh
 07/22/2006 06:38:48 AM · #11

To everyone who replied,Thank you So much.I know what your all saying about post processing, BUT if i dont have to go through all of that with the Pro 1 ,why is a SLR type camera supposed to be better ? Can i post process photos with the Pro 1 ? Im not doubting what your telling me, im trying to learn "right now im lost" . Thanks again...Maxx.
 07/22/2006 06:54:57 AM · #12
"why is a SLR type camera supposed to be better ?"

Because the Pro 1 has a lens that goes from 28-200. In my bag, my lenses go from 17-400 with options to go even higher or wider.

My camera has an optical viewfinder, the Pro1 doesn't

My camera has an aperture range of 1.4-36, depending on the lens I put on it. Yours ranges from 2.4-8.

The Pro1 has shutter speeds from 1/4000 to 15 seconds. Mine goes from 1/8000 til I make it stop.

The Pro1 goes up to ISO400. My camera has ISO3200.

The Pro1 can shoot 2.5/sec. I can shoot 5/sec. And, they don't even list a max burst for the Pro1 on the website, which leads me to believe its not that great.

Post processing is only what you do after you take the picture. The difference in camera bodies shows while you're taking the picture. A DLSR is more versitile. If you don't need all features then you don't really need a DSLR.

07/22/2006 07:39:17 AM · #13
Originally posted by dahkota:
"why is a SLR type camera supposed to be better ?"

Because the Pro 1 has a lens that goes from 28-200. In my bag, my lenses go from 17-400 with options to go even higher or wider.

My camera has an optical viewfinder, the Pro1 doesn't

My camera has an aperture range of 1.4-36, depending on the lens I put on it. Yours ranges from 2.4-8.

The Pro1 has shutter speeds from 1/4000 to 15 seconds. Mine goes from 1/8000 til I make it stop.

The Pro1 goes up to ISO400. My camera has ISO3200.

The Pro1 can shoot 2.5/sec. I can shoot 5/sec. And, they don't even list a max burst for the Pro1 on the website, which leads me to believe its not that great.

Post processing is only what you do after you take the picture. The difference in camera bodies shows while you're taking the picture. A DLSR is more versitile. If you don't need all features then you don't really need a DSLR.


this is a great side-by-side comparison. thanks for putting it in such simple terms. :)
 07/22/2006 09:40:48 AM · #14
I will add a couple to the list...keep in mind I love my Pro1 and still use it even though it Squeeks badly when the lens zooms in and out.

My main reason for moving across to the 20D from the Pro1 was Shutter Lag, The firmware upgrade (my is an original PS PRO1) did decrease the amount amount of time between what you see in the EVF (electronic view finder) and what was actually captured, but when shooting action; one still had to use the Pray and Spray technique.

Once I shot an Airshow with a TTL (through the lens) view finder, I couldn't do another action event with a EVF camera. Shooting through the lens, my compositions came out as what I saw, with my Pro1 I had to fire off six shots to get the same single shot that I did with the 20D. A lot of tossers with the Pray and Spray method.

The x1.5 Teleconverter (takes it to a @ 320mm) for the PS Pro1 is another awesome piece of "L" glass. Large yes (with adapter and TC it is bigger than the camera) but the pics are tack sharp (as good as my 70-200mm 4L) and rich in color... However, to use it and avoid vignetting it is only useable from about 280mm to 320mm. Not the most usable range. I have timed myself and can swap it out adapter + TC in about 20-30 secs. So I just put it on and leave it one. It's like having a 320mm "L" prime on it.

Super Macro and the Swivel Display are pluses on the Pro1... again the display is EVF and useful for static obejects, but nice when one doesn't want to lay down on the ground for that perfect shot. SuperMacro is tack sharp and will give a 85mm prime a run for its money.

My Pro1 doesn't come out and play as much as it used to but I am glad that I started with it. If one learns the menuing and modes then the move to (Canon) dSLR is no learning curve at all.
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