how to avoid blown outs? - DPChallenge Forums

Canon EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS

03/05/2006 09:56:12 PM · #1

Please share sometips, or how do YOU avoid blown out highlights (especially skies)? Thanks.

I was also looking at CS2's HDR feature but not getting lucky. Besides, it is not legal in DPC so lets not touch on that in this thread.

edit: typos

Message edited by author 2006-03-05 21:56:36.

awpollard

Canon EOS-5D Mark II

03/05/2006 10:05:43 PM · #2

Theres a sweet spot when you use the proper metering (mode), exposure compensation (usually on the - side) and a good shutter speed.

03/05/2006 10:21:47 PM · #3

Perhaps the best advice to give is to bracket shots when lighting is difficult. Also, using the histogram to check for spikes at either end of the spectrum is good.

Now in outdoor portraits, I often use a good amount of fill-flash on the subject. This helps to darken the skies and gives the subject a good bit of pop. I prefer posing the model in a bit of shade, but having the background remain bright, this really makes a portrait pop when you use the fill-flash.

One thing to remember about flash is that it is not affected by shutter speed. Aperture only controls flash exposure, so you can get a LOT of control by controlling ambient light via shutter speed and fill-flash via aperture.

Also, using a polarizer when doing outdoor portraits gives skies a more natural feel.

Those are just some of the tips I've picked up along the way.

03/05/2006 10:27:07 PM · #4

Originally posted by fotomann_forever:

Also, using a polarizer when doing outdoor portraits gives skies a more natural feel

Cheeseman, you're back! Hows the operation? Did they remove the cheese? :)

Thanks for the tip. I'll check out polarizer filters. I usually have problem with blown-out skies...grr... which polarizer should I get? or any other filters?

Panasonic Lumix G 14mm F2.5 ASPH

03/05/2006 10:33:13 PM · #5

Originally posted by crayon:

Thanks :-) Operation went well and I'm healing well, I'm still a bit sore, but getting better. No cheese was removed, I'm still all cheesy :-)

I use a Tiffen Circular Polarizer, it's a very good quality filter. BTW, I buy all my filters 77mm, so I can use step-down rings to use them on any lens, without fear of vignetting.

As far as landscapes go, I'm sure most of the landscapes photogs will tell you that gradiated ND filters are essential too.

Olyuzi

Panasonic Lumix DMC-GX7

03/05/2006 10:39:57 PM · #6

How about spot metering off of the brightest part of the scene that you want to maintain detail in. It'll render everything else much darker but then you can use exposure compensation to increase some exposure a bit as your histogram allows.

eschelar

Canon EOS-7D

Canon EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 IS USM

03/05/2006 10:41:30 PM · #7

I was also going to suggest a graduated ND filter.

I will also point out that using a DSLR will make a HUGE difference for dynamic range. The dynamic range for P&S cameras is really quite small. You really have to watch that you keep your light balanced throughout the picture. I forget how many stops the range is on a typical P&S, but it's like 3 times better on a DSLR, even the 300D. (It's mostly a factor of sensor photosite size. If the bucket is too small, it will fill up (blow out) too fast. There won't be enough of a difference between full and empty to provide a wide range of comparison - hence low dynamic range and easy blowouts)

Older P&S cameras are usually better than newer cameras for dynamic range due to the pixel counter race.

What I usually do is shoot in Av mode and use my in-camera meter to make sure that I'm within about 3 stops from bright to dark. If I'm beyond that, it had better make sense in the picture, otherwise out comes the flash.

I also use an external flash which operates as a slave from my on-camera flash (Tumax brand) for more control. On camera flash is typically pretty weak.

It all works great in theory, but don't ask to see examples because in practice, I still suck :)

03/05/2006 10:52:36 PM · #8

ok here's what I understand so far between the ND filter and the polarizer.

ND filter - reduce light (so I could get away with a larger aperture with the same shutterspeed)

Polarizer - reduce glare, or indirect light.

So for shooting landscapes or cityscapes, which is the more suitable? I get blown-out skies most of the time. Haven't got a hotshoe for larger flashes on this P&S camera, and havent got enough money yet for a larger DR dSLR camera :(

03/05/2006 10:59:45 PM · #9

Originally posted by crayon:

So for shooting landscapes or cityscapes, which is the more suitable? I get blown-out skies most of the time. Haven't got a hotshoe for larger flashes on this P&S camera, and havent got enough money yet for a larger DR dSLR camera :(

I'd say the graduated ND filters are probably going to be your best solution.

Also, another option is that Tiffen makes a line of Contrast filters that reduces contrast in a scene. You could use one of these filters to shoot a high-contrast scene such as a landscape then boost the contrast post-process.

One of the Tiffen Ultra-Contrast filters

Message edited by author 2006-03-05 23:06:40.

03/05/2006 11:05:33 PM · #10

.

Message edited by author 2006-03-05 23:12:30.

03/05/2006 11:06:51 PM · #11

one final dumb n00b question.

can I use my UV filter together with a polarizer? thanks

03/05/2006 11:09:20 PM · #12

Originally posted by crayon:

one final dumb n00b question.

can I use my UV filter together with a polarizer? thanks

Yes, many people never remove the UV filter from thier lens. You may get some vignetting at wide angles if you use too many filters, but probably not with just two filters on a P&S.

Canon EF 17-40mm f/4L USM

03/05/2006 11:12:49 PM · #13

can someone tell me if the benefits of a polarizer really so apparent?
see the example of "Mt Washington" from this webpage link

thanks

peecee

Canon EOS-5D

03/05/2006 11:17:20 PM · #14

Originally posted by crayon:

can someone tell me if the benefits of a polarizer really so apparent?
see the example of "Mt Washington" from this webpage link

thanks

These were all taken with a polarizer,makes a hell of a difference in many situations.As for the uv..I read a thread somewhere recently that said they aren't really neccessary on digital apart from protecting the glass.

David.C

Nikon AF Nikkor 50mm f/1.8D

03/05/2006 11:24:43 PM · #15

It hasn't been mentioned, so I will. :D Planning the shoot later in the day or earlier in the morning will reduce the dynamic range of the light and allow the camera to capture more of the scene with one exposure. It's necessary to wait until sunset/sunrise, but you probably don't want the full blown noon-day sun either. The slanting light makes for more interesting shadows as well.

David

faidoi

Pentax K10D

Pentax DA 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 AF

03/06/2006 12:27:17 AM · #16

Originally posted by crayon:

A polarizer will work as a lite ND filter has it will block out some light, but not as much as a ND filter.

A graduated ND filter will help out more with a landscape then a regular ND filter. A graduated ND is basically a half tinted filter in which you can turn it until it blocks out the brightest part of the scene.

Underexposing would be a way to help with blown-outs also. Metering for the sky will keep it from blowing out, but keep the rest of the scene dark. You may be able to rescue it if underexposed instead of overexposed.

Message edited by author 2006-03-06 00:31:00.

Olyuzi

Panasonic Lumix DMC-GX7

Panasonic Lumix G 14mm F2.5 ASPH

03/06/2006 01:14:10 AM · #17

Shooting RAW will also give you more dynamic range to play with once you get your image into your computer and play with it in your RAW converter. This will help you to recover blown highlights as long as there is no clipping in the histogram.

Canon EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 IS USM

03/06/2006 01:51:40 AM · #18

Originally posted by Olyuzi:

Yup, I've gotten this advise too, but my RAW converter sucks big time. Dont really allow me to tweak except to convert :( I'm not sure if there are 3rd party RAW converters that I could use with the RAW files on my camera model?

eschelar

Canon EOS-7D

03/06/2006 11:40:32 PM · #19

On a P&S, shooting RAW will help a little, but the basic form factor means that clipping will always be a problem. Better to address the problem at the source. If you can avoid clipping in a JPG, then you can always switch to RAW if you need a little extra on a really difficult shot.

Learning to control the light with Graduated ND filters and Polarizers is probably the first line of attack on the issue.

Because Polarizers work on directional light, it is also possible to use them as almost selective ND filters because light from different sources will behave differently.

Light reflected from flat or hard surfaces is affected differently from soft surfaces. So they are really useful tools.