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10/27/2013 03:14:59 PM · #1
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Message edited by author 2013-11-19 04:31:16.
10/27/2013 04:54:41 PM · #2
I think the key to great product photography is getting it right for the product, and the application.

White page backgrounds in a catalog look horrible with black-background product photos. And in the same vein, an expensive watch should LOOK expensive, while a sports watch needs to look sporty, matching product to style is a key feature of great product shots. Essentially, ask yourself, where is this image being used, and who is the target clientele.. That should give you a fairly clear answer to the 'what should this look like' question.

Hope that makes sense...

ETA:

Your images are fine, but would benefit greatly from some very clean background cloning. Product photography isn't photojournalism, don't be afraid to get down on some heavy editing. Topaz remask is probably your friend here.

Also, think about getting some models to do action type product shots, which are really much more compelling than 'catalog' shots like those you posted above.

Message edited by author 2013-10-27 16:58:35.
10/27/2013 05:12:33 PM · #3
Another question you should be asking yourself is do you want to do "me too" photography, or develop a style of your own. If you go "me too" (i.e. what everyone else is doing), why would a prospective client hire YOU specifically when there are already so many proven entities who do the same thing. If you're going for your own style, that will take a while to find and develop, and will require spec images you wont get paid for. Maybe approach local stores to see if you can do low cost or even spec images for them to start building your port.
10/27/2013 06:54:40 PM · #4
Originally posted by tanguera:

Another question you should be asking yourself is do you want to do "me too" photography, or develop a style of your own. If you go "me too" (i.e. what everyone else is doing), why would a prospective client hire YOU specifically when there are already so many proven entities who do the same thing. If you're going for your own style, that will take a while to find and develop, and will require spec images you wont get paid for. Maybe approach local stores to see if you can do low cost or even spec images for them to start building your port.


If you contact the stores, maybe ask them what they like and don't like about their current photographer. Probe on what they're paying. Ask if they want a different look or want to fit in. "The key to sales is to find out what your customer wants to buy - then offer it to them."

I also wonder if manufacturers do the photography and provide it to stores … maybe the stores aren't buying it direct from the photographers … maybe it's the manufacturers you ought to be approaching.

I like your images, feel they are a little dark. You're doing a good job controlling reflections!
10/28/2013 03:24:43 PM · #5
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Message edited by author 2013-11-19 04:31:28.
10/28/2013 03:45:59 PM · #6
Originally posted by xml5000:

Although the watch is now bathed in a more evenly distributed light the lack of shadow around
the stand is starting to bug me a bit. I guess its ok?

If you can create a pure white background you can create a "clipping path" (you can save this in EPS and maybe some other formats) which allows a designer to easily place the isolated image onto another background.
10/28/2013 03:50:42 PM · #7
Originally posted by xml5000:

Thanks for the comments guys.

Today I've had a go at a creating a white background version whilst making the overall product

more evenly lit.



Although the watch is now bathed in a more evenly distributed light the lack of shadow around
the stand is starting to bug me a bit. I guess its ok?


Angle is too high IMO, shoot from a lower position (maybe, try it anyway)...

Yes, I agree, the stand is an issue. I'd probably shoot it laying down on white and then isolate it from that. Trying to clone out the stand would be.... Nightmarish.
10/29/2013 01:37:40 PM · #8
deleted.

Message edited by author 2013-11-19 04:31:38.
10/29/2013 02:08:49 PM · #9
Originally posted by xml5000:

Very helpful comments. Here's my latest effort taking
on board a lot of what has been suggested.



Technically, the image looks pretty darn good.

But there's a bit of improvement possible still.

The band seems messy - which is good if you're telling a story, because it seems genuine, but that would require context in the shot (top of a table with a drink and a few cards "Time out" "Timeless" etc.)

Otherwise, if you can stretch the band out (might require tiny bits of hot glue on the links to lock them in position while on the stand, then remove and place hot-glue side down, after trimming the wisps off carefully), and then shoot like this on white, but then fully replace all the white with pure white, then you have a 'floating watch' which will be impressive, and technically beyond what most photographers are delivering.

Message edited by author 2013-10-29 14:09:08.
10/29/2013 10:03:03 PM · #10
Originally posted by Cory:

Originally posted by xml5000:

Very helpful comments. Here's my latest effort taking
on board a lot of what has been suggested.



Technically, the image looks pretty darn good.

But there's a bit of improvement possible still.

The band seems messy - which is good if you're telling a story, because it seems genuine, but that would require context in the shot (top of a table with a drink and a few cards "Time out" "Timeless" etc.)

Otherwise, if you can stretch the band out (might require tiny bits of hot glue on the links to lock them in position while on the stand, then remove and place hot-glue side down, after trimming the wisps off carefully), and then shoot like this on white, but then fully replace all the white with pure white, then you have a 'floating watch' which will be impressive, and technically beyond what most photographers are delivering.


Agree - pretty damn good! And I LIKE the messy band!
10/30/2013 08:27:19 AM · #11
deleted.

Message edited by author 2013-11-19 04:31:54.
10/30/2013 08:46:53 AM · #12
The images are great and well lit etc but I see no images yet of your "different" style. Throw some of those in the mix to compare... Some methods have been to put a watch on a PVC pip or around some other object other than the human arm. I can think of a few but then yours wouldn't be original right :)
10/30/2013 02:03:04 PM · #13
deleted.

Message edited by author 2013-11-19 04:32:21.
10/30/2013 02:08:10 PM · #14
Watch freaks want precision and detail in the images more than anything else. They don't need people, context, any of that stuff. Pure watch porn is an exquisitely rendered watch, nothing else. All those "environmental" watch ads are lifestyle ads: they try to convince people to buy into a lifestyle. For the true watch freak, the watch itself is an irresistible object of desire.
10/30/2013 02:17:15 PM · #15
Originally posted by xml5000:

I agree that the 'holy grail' of general watch photography appears to be the
'floating' pure white background method which I like, but...

OK, for something different try floating the watch on a pure black background instead, with just a hint of a silvery-white blurry "shadow" below ...

So what's the opposite of holy grail, crucible of brimstone ...?
10/30/2013 03:23:00 PM · #16
deleted.

Message edited by author 2013-11-19 04:32:06.
10/30/2013 05:59:34 PM · #17
If you want "watch porn" go to where the real perverts hang out, watch collectors blogs or repair advice sites You can find a variety of backgrounds and lighting techniques each suited to the type of watch they are shooting. To these guys each watch has a personality and features that ought to be shown off or de-emphasized. You don't use the same background on a a Cartier as you do on a Girard-Perregaux Sea Hawk

A few tricks to try; for the floating on white look, put your watch on a piece of plexi glass and light the white background brighter than the watch highlights. You will get a blank background that prints well for setting into text on an ad.
To get the band to stay in the shape you want, buy some copper tubing for ice maker's supply line, 1/4 inch ID and very flexible but will hold it's shape. This lets you shape the band how you like, and by careful composition, show the back of the band while hiding the tubing. Shot on a clear support, you can then rotate the composition to have it float without using the stand.
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