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09/07/2011 10:26:30 PM · #1 |
So, I am noticing that the 18-55 kit lens I bought with my Canon Rebel is consistently soft and kind of a piece of work... Does anyone have any recommendations for the next step up I could purchase that would work well for portraits? I am also in the market for a flash. My boss uses Nikon, or I would just borrow his equipment. However I was foolish and bought Canon (I blame my lack of photography knowledge for that one....lol).
Thanks in advance for any help!
Message edited by author 2011-09-07 22:29:28.
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09/07/2011 10:36:30 PM · #2 |
You weren't foolish for buying a Canon and there is no reason your 18-55 shouldn't be sharp. Maybe your particular camera has a slight focus problem?? If you want something for portraits I would say try a 50mm f1.8. It is about 80mm equivalent on your camera which is a good portrait focal length and is fast. Canon and Nikon both make great cameras and the T3i is a great unit. Some sources prefer it over the similarly priced Nikons (I think both are excellent and arguing is ridiculous).
Another must have is the 55-250 lens for the Canon. As far as flashes, your question is too open ended. I have a 270EX I like, but you may want more power or features.
//www.kenrockwell.com/canon/lenses/18-55-efs-ii.htm
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09/07/2011 11:00:15 PM · #3 |
+1 on what he said about the kit lens and the 55-250. No, they are not L glass, but good lenses, especially for the price. If you think it is soft, perhaps you could post a shot with the settings used. There may be something else going on.
Now the original, non-IS version of the 18-55, that came with the XT and XTi is a little soft if you compare them. But that's not what came with your T3.
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09/08/2011 02:00:18 AM · #4 |
She already has the 55-250.
As for it being foolish- both companies make good products, but it is handy to have a friend on the same format so you can swap.
As for suggestions for lenses, a price range is somewhat necessary. There are a lot of folks that think it makes more sense to invest in the 50 1.4 than the 1.8 due to quality and durability, for instance. Another lens that would serve you well for portraiture and most everything is the Tamron 28-75. Primes are great but the versatility of a zoom is also nice. It's a trade-off, of course. It's AF is slow but it is a steal in every respect overall.
As for flashes, what are you aiming to do?
Are you interested in off camera flash? Is this for studio work or outside? Budget? |
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09/08/2011 02:28:15 AM · #5 |
| When I felt I wanted a step up from the kit lens, I bought the Tamron 28-75. I use that lens more than any other. |
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09/08/2011 02:54:05 AM · #6 |
| I highly recommend canon's 15-85. I purchased it recently after selling my 17-40L lens and so far I have been really happy with it. I can't tell the difference in sharpness while it's a lot more versatile. |
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09/08/2011 08:30:10 AM · #7 |
Originally posted by spiritualspatula:
She already has the 55-250.
As for it being foolish- both companies make good products, but it is handy to have a friend on the same format so you can swap.
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Thanks for taking the time to notice. =) I bought the 55-250 when I got my camera, knowing that I would want at least a little zoom. And the foolish comment was definitely in reference to what everyone I work with uses, not the quality of the camera itself. I'm glad you caught that. I should have waited to purchase my DSLR until after I knew what other people around me used. But I did do a lot of research and overall, am quite happy with my camera.
My budget is around $500, but I can save up or spend less accordingly. At this point, a high quality lens would pay itself off fairly quickly because I would be able to shoot clients more confidently. Mostly I want a lens that will consistently give me a sharp image. Right now, no matter where my settings are, everything almost always looks slightly blurry.
As for a flash, I really just need something for my camera when shooting indoor, on location, portraitures for clients. Sometime in the next year I hope to purchase a second flash for remote use, but that's neither here nor there.
Thanks a million! |
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09/08/2011 08:41:58 AM · #8 |
Having just looked at your piccies I see what you mean about your shots not being pin sharp.
I would like to hear what others think as to the reason for this. |
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09/08/2011 09:02:04 AM · #9 |
Originally posted by Tiny:
Having just looked at your piccies I see what you mean about your shots not being pin sharp.
I would like to hear what others think as to the reason for this. |
=( Yeah. At this point, my point-and-shoot Kodak Easy Share could take the same quality of photographs........ I use my boss's Nikon sometimes and when I do, my images are pristine. So I know that it's my lens and not me. |
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09/08/2011 01:12:08 PM · #10 |
Originally posted by melodicgrace:
Originally posted by Tiny:
Having just looked at your piccies I see what you mean about your shots not being pin sharp.
I would like to hear what others think as to the reason for this. |
=( Yeah. At this point, my point-and-shoot Kodak Easy Share could take the same quality of photographs........ I use my boss's Nikon sometimes and when I do, my images are pristine. So I know that it's my lens and not me. |
It's really difficult to get at what's causing the problem with resized images because the method that you resize and edit can drastically effect the sharpness of your outcome. Also, if you are shooting RAW, remember you need to provide a bit of sharpening on all images. Lastly, the way you sharpen a photo that will be viewed small is very different from how you should be sharpening a photo that is intended for a large viewing...
As for possible issues- if you are changing your distance once you focus on your subject, that can cause issues. This a lot of times isn't terribly noticeable, but can appear to be the same as a lens that front focuses or backfocuses slightly. If you have a tripod, try taking some shots with the timer. If you have a remote, shoot them with mirror up. If you don't shoot them with a shutter of like 1/100 or so. Turn IS off. Manual focus these shots and compare to one where you use AF as well. Use this focus chart (I find it works well and he provides a good explanation of things). Soft lenses DO exist.
But definitely examine your workflow and technique. Support your camera fully, don't "stab" your shutter release, roll your finger. The stab invokes many a jerked stance.
While I admittedly don't use the same process McNally does, his explanation for WHY he does what he does is solid and should get you thinking- watch this video.
As for a sharp lens, that Tamron I mentioned is very sharp and offers excellent contrast. My only complaint is the AF is slow, but I seem to have a bigger problem with that than most other people note, so maybe it's just my copy. It's also not as sturdy as my Nikon 28-70 (but then the cost is substantially less, so I shouldn't expect that). It's also REMARKABLY light and focuses relatively close. It's one of the lenses that you see many, many people suggest as a lens to move into. Consider if you want a zoom or if you're okay with a prime. Primes will typically be sharper, smaller, cheaper (until you get into 1.4 territory) and lighter. They are great and I love mine, but there are times when they can be frustrating. If you're not sure about this question, tape your zoom ring in one place, at the focal point of a prime you're considering, and run through a hypothetical typical shoot for you. If you like it, consider a prime. If you hate it, pony up for a zoom.
Flash-wise, the biggest question you'll have to answer is whether you want eTTL. If you answer yes, you have to buy a dedicated Canon lens or a third party that supports it like the Sigma 500DG (these third party flashes, though they support eTTL, often have strange little quirks when it comes to their operation in that mode, so make sure you know what you're getting into if you go that route). It also means you'll be shelling out more money, invariably. But eTTL has its place and can be very useful- it's relative usefulness depends on how you intend to deploy it. Anywhere you need to "run and gun" is typically the stomping ground for eTTL. The rest of the time you can get by with manual if you're willing to do some test shots.
The other question I have is that you noted you intend to have a second flash for off camera use... but there's no reason you can't do off camera with a single flash, you just need to consider trigger methods (there are many, but the cheapest is optical. It has drawbacks, but it's cheap). Really, the lighting question could be an entirely separate thread.
After you answer the question of eTTL, get the most powerful you can afford that still has a decent recycle time, and make sure you budget in rechargables.
ETA:. Crap, I wrote you a novella...
Message edited by author 2011-09-08 13:29:30. |
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09/08/2011 01:24:08 PM · #11 |
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09/08/2011 01:51:20 PM · #12 |
| Try a 50mm f1.8...it's cheap, but sharp as a tack. If your camera is soft with one of these, it's your camera. |
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09/08/2011 02:23:58 PM · #13 |
Originally posted by mike_311:
try renting some lenses. |
Definitely the way to go, both in terms of deciding if a particular lens does what you want, and to help you assess what factors are involved in your images showing softness/lack of focus.
:) |
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09/08/2011 02:30:53 PM · #14 |
| With $500 and the ability to save, I would highly recommend the Canon 15-85 lens. This is the lens I use most of the time. Very nice results and Extremely amazing image stabilization. |
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09/08/2011 03:13:54 PM · #15 |
Looking through your portfolio, Im not certain the issue lies in your lenses. Digital photography is by it's nature softer than film, and there is a need to sharpen the images. One of the expectations in the learning process is a certain tendency to oversharpen, none of which I can see in your work. In skiing I used to be told that if you weren't wiping out from time to time, you weren't going fast enough. You might think through your sharpening process, particularly for web reductions and for print (two very different processes) and see if you can tighten up the work you have already shot.
I'm not saying better glass won't be better, but if the issue lies in your workflow, it would be a cheaper step, and one you will need to take no matter what you are shooting through. |
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09/08/2011 03:20:29 PM · #16 |
Originally posted by mike_311:
try renting some lenses. |
If you are cheap like I am, find friends who can let you borrow theirs. If all else fails, organize a GTG there are a whole lot of DPC folk near you who shoot Canon, round them up for a shoot and swap glass. |
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09/08/2011 04:43:18 PM · #17 |
I'm a portrait photographer and use a canon as well, so I have been in your spot before and asked the same questions. I tried to choose lenses that I could keep forever and not have to replace later. So here's my recommendation:
a)Get a 50mm 1.8 and a flash
The 50mm 1.8 is an unbelievable value and likely the best way to go. It being a 1.8 you'll be able to play with the DoF a lot more and it will still have a purpose even when you're buying $1000+ zooms. Plus with all the money you have leftover you can go ahead and get a decent remote flash or start saving for some L glass like the 24-70 2.8 or 24-105 4.
b)Sell your 18-55mm and your 18-70mm and get the Canon 15-85
The 15-85 is sharp and you'll feel right at home using it. It will not perform as well in low light situations or give you the same DoF options as the 50mm 1.8, but the auto focus is much better and is a much more well rounded lens. It is more likely that you'll need to upgrade your camera before needing to upgrade from this lens. Which brings me to:
z)Sell your camera and a couple lenses and get a 7d.
This is not c) it's z) because it's a little out there and a lot more work... but perhaps something to consider in the future. The 7d has more than double the amount of focus points and nineteen times more cross-type focus points. AF points and having your camera figure out what you're trying to do can make a big difference when we're talking about soft photos. Also this thing is fast!
Here is a great breakdown of canon lenses you may want to check out. Good luck!
The Best Canon Lenses
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09/08/2011 06:20:45 PM · #18 |
I'll echo what others have said about the 15-85mm. I've had mine for at least a year now, and love it.
As for the Flash...If you could save up for the 580EX II it's well worth it. It allows you to do everything, and once you get at least one you can get other flashes such as the 430EX II for fill etc. Having a better master is ideal if you ask me.
The nice thing about the Canon 7D..which I obviously own is that you can also trigger the 580EXII off camera with the built in flash. That's pretty sweet. I think you can also do that with the 60D as well now, but I'd check into that.
Dave |
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