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09/07/2011 06:08:50 PM · #1 |
How do you avoid the dreaded 'blinkies' when shooting into a bright sky? Especially when there are trees/branches in the transition from ground to sky?
I don't want to lose detail in the leaves/branches for the sake of a perfectly exposed sky. But I hate washed out skies as well. Take a look at the photography by marc adamus to see a good example of exposing perfectly for both.
Is HDR or extreme digital blending the solution?? If this post is unclear, I apologize... |
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09/07/2011 06:16:11 PM · #2 |
One solution is to expose for the sky, either using exposure compensation or shooting in manual mode. Of course the trees will be a tangle of blackness.
You can shoot a couple of exposures and blend them in HDR, but branches against the sky are a bear to cut in, soooo many little fussy bits.
You can wait for a cloudy day, or when the sun is low in the sky and hit the branches with a big bright flash to bring up their tone closer to the dim sky.
Or you can re-compose and get that nasty sky out of your background.
If you are shooting for the sun in frame challenge, suggestions 3 and 4 are probably moot. |
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09/07/2011 07:18:50 PM · #3 |
Couple questions:
1.) Are you shooting in JPEG or RAW?
2.) Do you use the histogram?
3.) If you answered "yes" to (2), then are you using the histogram in RGB mode (if your cam supports it)?
4.) What mode are you normally shooting in?
OK, that was more than a couple questions, but it will help us to help you.
Message edited by author 2011-09-07 19:21:10.
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09/07/2011 11:20:51 PM · #4 |
JPEG, but now I'm trying to switch over to RAW. I don't know too much about RAW, but do recall that it has a way of recovering some clipping.
I know the basics to histograms, but on my new 60d, I haven't enabled it to show up in the preview. Sorry I can't answer that one too detailed.
For landscapes, I usually use the AV mode, relying heavily on the exp. compensation to fine tune things. Sometimes I use the TV mode for wildlife and such. But for the question I was asking, I use AV.
Hopefully this helps a bit... |
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09/08/2011 05:01:47 AM · #5 |
Shoot in RAW - yes it will help to recover some info if it is too bright... but our digital cameras are not able to capture massive differences in stops of light. I stand to be corrected but our cameras can only capture something like 5 stops of light from dark to bright. Looking into the sun / bright sky and trying to capture some details on the ground is beyond the capabilities of the camera... that is essentially why HDR can about.
Read this website //www.hougaardmalan.com/blog/?p=199. There is great info there on manual blending of photos to make a realistic HDR looking photo. It is not hard when you get the hang of it and as for  BrennanOB's comment about sooooo many little fussy bits - use luminosity masks. It is in the link I mentioned but a great source is //goodlight.us/writing/luminositymasks/luminositymasks-1.html. This guy is a genius with Photoshop and purchasing his photoshop actions are well worth it. I have done so and dont regret doing it for a second! |
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09/08/2011 06:49:49 AM · #6 |
| Expose for the sky and then use some fill flash to get the leaves. |
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09/08/2011 09:11:29 AM · #7 |
Originally posted by Covert_Oddity:
Expose for the sky and then use some fill flash to get the leaves. |
Agreed that is one method... but it doesnt work for WA lenses normally due to flash fall of and distance of subject to camera / flash.
Grad ND filters are also an option to reduce brightness of sky but if the horizon is not perfectly flat or you have trees showing above the horizon then it doesnt work so well. |
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09/08/2011 03:15:38 PM · #8 |
| Thanks for the links! Definitely some valuable info... |
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