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04/01/2010 09:43:22 AM · #176 |
Mark, this is excellent work. In my opinion, one of the pitfalls for a new photographer is "over-doing-it". The lighting you've added is perfect because it's not obvious. It would be a mistake to think you have to go over the top in order to be "artistic". This is true of composition, lighting, and all other parts of photography.
Originally posted by mpeters:
While the effect of the light isn't great, it does give the couple a little POP! The difference with/without is subtle although much more visible in the zoomed shot.
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04/20/2010 08:50:38 PM · #177 |
Newb studio question. I'm doing an action shot in the studio with 2 SB600s set up at 1/16 at 45 degrees down on the left and right. Is 200th of a second going to be enough speed? That's the speed that my camera sets itself to automatically even on manual. Is there any way to push it faster if need be?
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04/30/2010 08:41:40 PM · #178 |
Originally posted by cynthiann:
Newb studio question. I'm doing an action shot in the studio with 2 SB600s set up at 1/16 at 45 degrees down on the left and right. Is 200th of a second going to be enough speed? That's the speed that my camera sets itself to automatically even on manual. Is there any way to push it faster if need be? |
1/200th should be more than fast enough in a studio. Most indoors rooms are far darker than you think they are.
Keep in mind that your shutter speed controls your ambient exposure, and has no effect on your flash exposure. The flash duration is far shorter that the shutter speed, so your effective shutter speed is the length of the flash pulse. |
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05/10/2010 11:41:42 PM · #179 |
Okay, now I'm trying to learn/play more with flash. This is one of a set I did for my son's senior pictures. The flash is a 580 on a long sync cable held up high above the camera. I'm starting to look at light boxes and remote flash sensors to try to make this a little easier. I see that  mpeters uses a Cheetah box which is one I'm looking at. What are some of the other boxes folks use with a 580 style flash?
 
Message edited by author 2010-05-10 23:54:53. |
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05/11/2010 12:20:05 AM · #180 |
The first one is really well done! From the pose, lighting, dof, everything. Good job!
On the second one, you could have let in a little more of the ambient to lighten the BG. Just my opinion... |
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05/11/2010 12:42:22 AM · #181 |
Originally posted by mpeters:
The first one is really well done! From the pose, lighting, dof, everything. Good job!
On the second one, you could have let in a little more of the ambient to lighten the BG. Just my opinion... |
I actually have control over the background. I used Lightroom's vignette to produce the darkened ring and maybe I went a little too far. I like the second one but I do see the problem with the shadows on the collar. That is where I think it would be better to have a light box of some sort for my flash to diffuse the light... then I could also use my reflector (with the wife's help) to bounce some light back on the other side to fill in some more.
It was fun to shoot. My youngest son is fairly photogenic (more so then his older brother)... |
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05/15/2010 01:39:29 AM · #182 |
I just ordered a couple of alien bee 800's and was wondering if they would work with this inverter? Since I already own this one I am hoping I don't need to buy a different one.
Thanks
-Kris |
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05/15/2010 01:49:52 AM · #183 |
Originally posted by Eagle40Fox2:
I just ordered a couple of alien bee 800's and was wondering if they would work with this inverter? Since I already own this one I am hoping I don't need to buy a different one.
Thanks
-Kris |
I'm thinking that's a bad idea.
Check this out:
Modified Sine Wave inverters bad news....
At the very last, you'd have to get a Pure Sine Inverter or go to a Vagabond.
ETA: That B&D is a modified sine wave... that's why I posted this.
Message edited by author 2010-05-15 01:50:33. |
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05/15/2010 02:37:21 AM · #184 |
Originally posted by hopper:
This youtube video is a stunning example of what can be done with just a couple speedlights. If you had shown me just the images, I would have bet the farm he was lighting the scene with a monster softbox and monolights as strong as the sun with generators.
//www.youtube.com/watch?v=URYVtbDUrDI
(someone will say it, so I'll say it first ... it helps to have a model that looks like that :) |
This was amazing .. any one know how he can sync to 1/800 on a Canon 5D? I thought this is impossible to do and the max you can get with it is 1/250!!! |
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05/15/2010 02:51:49 AM · #185 |
Originally posted by AmeedEl-Ghoul:
Originally posted by hopper:
This youtube video is a stunning example of what can be done with just a couple speedlights. If you had shown me just the images, I would have bet the farm he was lighting the scene with a monster softbox and monolights as strong as the sun with generators.
//www.youtube.com/watch?v=URYVtbDUrDI
(someone will say it, so I'll say it first ... it helps to have a model that looks like that :) |
This was amazing .. any one know how he can sync to 1/800 on a Canon 5D? I thought this is impossible to do and the max you can get with it is 1/250!!! |
You need to get one of these: 550EX, 580EX, ST-E2, MR-14EX, and MT-24EX to command for high speed sync (FP Sync). Then you can enable the highspeed sync in the flashes. I'm not sure what all Canon flashes can do this though. I know the 580's can. Additional input needed to clarify though...
Understanding how FP works involves understanding how the shutter works and what the duration of the flash pulse is. If the flash pulse is smaller (for strobes, it must be a lower power to decrease duration. Studio flashes are the opposite... speed decreases as power lowers), then the flash can take place entirely during the time the shutter slides across the sensor. |
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05/15/2010 02:59:26 AM · #186 |
Originally posted by spiritualspatula:
Originally posted by AmeedEl-Ghoul:
Originally posted by hopper:
This youtube video is a stunning example of what can be done with just a couple speedlights. If you had shown me just the images, I would have bet the farm he was lighting the scene with a monster softbox and monolights as strong as the sun with generators.
//www.youtube.com/watch?v=URYVtbDUrDI
(someone will say it, so I'll say it first ... it helps to have a model that looks like that :) |
This was amazing .. any one know how he can sync to 1/800 on a Canon 5D? I thought this is impossible to do and the max you can get with it is 1/250!!! |
You need to get one of these: 550EX, 580EX, ST-E2, MR-14EX, and MT-24EX to command for high speed sync (FP Sync). Then you can enable the highspeed sync in the flashes. I'm not sure what all Canon flashes can do this though. I know the 580's can. Additional input needed to clarify though...
Understanding how FP works involves understanding how the shutter works and what the duration of the flash pulse is. If the flash pulse is smaller (for strobes, it must be a lower power to decrease duration. Studio flashes are the opposite... speed decreases as power lowers), then the flash can take place entirely during the time the shutter slides across the sensor. |
Thanks allot for the clarification, I have on 580EX and 2 Vivitar to be used manually. If I knew only the 580 would sync on this speed I would've got the Vivitars. Also I use Alienbees Sybersyncs as transceivers. I think now I have to make the switch to MT-24EX or equivalent .. Thanks once again, your indetail reply is highly appreciated.
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05/15/2010 03:16:57 AM · #187 |
Other flashes do have high speed sync, some of the Sigma options, for instance. What it boils down to is making sure your flashes/triggering support HSS. The new PW's do (limited range/condom for Canon), as well as the Radio Poppers. But this still requires a HSS trigger on camera (which I noted in my earlier post), since it converts the electromagnetic pulses of the camera into information then radio transmits.
ETA: I'm not sure that you'll be able to get your Vivitars to fire correctly for HSS, but I could be wrong. Hopefully somebody else will post with experience. What units are you using that are Vivitar?
Message edited by author 2010-05-15 03:18:12. |
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05/15/2010 03:35:29 PM · #188 |
I don't think the VIvitar would do it to as well, they are mainly for manual strobing, nothing fancy about them beside being work horses :)
I'll have to try the HSS with Alienbees cybersyncs and see what is the results, will report latter, thanks once again for the insight.
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05/18/2010 09:17:52 AM · #189 |
I just had to do a portrait for my dad, and was curious what people thought.
  
Posing isn't very good IMO, but the window for shooting was very small as well. What do you all think? Preference?
ETA: lighting was a single SB900 in reflective umbrella, camera left, on a cloudy day in "shade." Angle changed for the various photos. 2nd one was a 45 degree angle and the other two were more like... 30 or so.
I agree about the shutter. Chalk that up to be dumb and in a hurry.
Yes on the hippy comment, but it's okay, it's for his high school reunion and he's a music fiend. :)
Message edited by author 2010-05-18 09:47:45. |
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05/18/2010 09:31:27 AM · #190 |
Originally posted by spiritualspatula:
Posing isn't very good IMO, but the window for shooting was very small as well. What do you all think? Preference? |
Third one because you were able to get 1/180th. IMO, 1/60th is a bit slow for lit portraits. Oh, and your dad's a hippy. :-P
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06/09/2010 10:21:52 AM · #191 |
| Count me in. I love my Canon 580EX II's and EX 430's. Also like the Lastolite EzyBox softboxes. Portable, works well, great value for money. |
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06/09/2010 03:25:36 PM · #192 |
The recent Self Portrait challenge was my first real attempt to use strobes. It wasn't too easy but it was fun getting it to look right. Looking at it now I'd like to have had some light from above on my head so my black hair didn't blend with the background so much. Other than that, any comments?
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06/09/2010 03:32:48 PM · #193 |
Derek, did you do any soft-focus pp techniques, or was that the aforementioned 1.60th? Looks like they could be a touch sharper to me. Also, if you feel the pose if awkward, you could crop closer to his face/chest. I agree, 3rd one seems sharpest and well lit.
Nuzzer, I agree, some rim light would be nice. Tiny nit is that it feels like there are other areas in the image that are sharper than the eyes. Otherwise nice! Welcome to the fascinating world of strobe-lighting. =D |
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06/09/2010 10:01:20 PM · #194 |
Originally posted by smurfguy:
Derek, did you do any soft-focus pp techniques, or was that the aforementioned 1.60th? Looks like they could be a touch sharper to me. Also, if you feel the pose if awkward, you could crop closer to his face/chest. I agree, 3rd one seems sharpest and well lit.
Nuzzer, I agree, some rim light would be nice. Tiny nit is that it feels like there are other areas in the image that are sharper than the eyes. Otherwise nice! Welcome to the fascinating world of strobe-lighting. =D |
That's a result of the 1/60 most likely. It could also be somewhat due to the focus on my Tamron, which doesn't seem as definitive or exact as my other lenses. The whole affair took maybe ten minutes including setup. It was a good exercise in getting something fast and on demand, so I knew there would be some issues with it.
Nuzzer, I like your shot. Definitely a rim, or even just a reflector to kick a little back in, but otherwise I like it. I like the expression, very simple. I think it's easy to try and overdo portraits, especially self portraits, and you avoided that very well. |
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06/16/2010 06:02:15 AM · #195 |
Don't recall seeing this yet, but there's a new site that helps out Canon users specifically. It's from Syl Arena, whose main site is pixsylated, just recently launched Speedliting.com. It's pretty new and doesn't have a ton of stuff yet, but I expect it will grow and help folks out some. Worth a looksy.
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06/16/2010 06:05:01 AM · #196 |
Oh yeah, I was organizing my bookmarks and stumbled back upon this link- //www.bron.ch/vt_pd_lg_sc_en/index.php It's a side by side comparison of how lighting modifiers look, so you can get an idea of what you may need/be interested in investing in.
Enjoy.
Also, I already posted this in a separate thread, but for future people that run through here, this might be of use too-
I know a lot of folks here read Strobist, so this isn't new to you if you do.
Just thought it was worth reposting-
Phottix Atlas Transceivers- function alongside PW's (4 channels) with comparable performance but lower price tag.
Strobist Article
Looks promising if they can get an FCC version out.
Message edited by author 2010-06-16 21:27:34. |
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06/16/2010 08:39:03 AM · #197 |
Originally posted by spiritualspatula:
//www.bron.ch/vt_pd_lg_sc_en/index.php It's a side by side comparison of how lighting modifiers look, so you can get an idea of what you may need/be interested in investing in.
Enjoy. |
Wickedly awesome reference material! Thanks! |
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06/16/2010 10:24:35 AM · #198 |
Originally posted by AmeedEl-Ghoul:
Originally posted by hopper:
This youtube video is a stunning example of what can be done with just a couple speedlights. If you had shown me just the images, I would have bet the farm he was lighting the scene with a monster softbox and monolights as strong as the sun with generators.
//www.youtube.com/watch?v=URYVtbDUrDI
(someone will say it, so I'll say it first ... it helps to have a model that looks like that :) |
This was amazing .. any one know how he can sync to 1/800 on a Canon 5D? I thought this is impossible to do and the max you can get with it is 1/250!!! |
I know somebody has already pointed out that the combination of canon cameras and flashes can use a feature called hypersync which allows you to shoot at much higher shutter speeds, but I wanted to point out how useful the feature really is. I still hear of people using AB800s outside because they want to overpower the sun, but studio flashes and most manual hot shoe flashes are limited to the top sync speed on the camera. With hyper sync you can pick up 2 or 3 stops by shutting the sun down vs adding light. In many cases this is enough to make your 580 or 430 work, and they are a lot easier to carry. I also wanted to point out that the 430EX II doesn't suffer from the electronic noise issue that affect the range of the 580 and it makes a perfect companion to pocket wizard's new control TTL triggers. I highly recommend saving $100 on the flash and then using that money to get a great trigger. I stumbled around with sync cables and optical sync for a long time because I didn't want to spend money on a radio trigger, but the investment has paid for itself many times over when I consider the time and effort I've saved as well as the shots that were not missed. |
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06/19/2010 10:54:11 AM · #199 |
Thanks for keeping this thread moving a bit. Due to added time constraints at work and home I haven't been able to get out and shoot or keep up with this thread as much as I'd like. But, here are a few images I've lit with hot shoe flashes. I find that even at home where power is available, I leave my solitary AB400 on the shelf!
 Can't see the affect of the flashes in this one except on the balloon string, the left side of the balloon and the underside of the umbrella. I don't think the flashes did much to help me out. It was a bright sunny afternoon and the flashes were set at full power, about 12' from the subject.
 I have the whole series posted in my portfolio. These were shot from just as the sun dipped below the horizon until it was almost too dark to see. Started with three flashes but eventually changed to two, both crosslighting the subject at about 10/2 o'clock. I think the lighting on the backstop is spill from my RH flash. It was unintentional but looking back it added greatly. IN the future I'll remember not to neglect splashing some light across the background. While I felt this shoot was successful and exceeded my expectations, the next time I'm going to add a light to provide some fill on the front of the subject, mainly to bring up the harsh shadows on the subjects face. I still like the crossing rim style lighting but IMO a fill would be good.
 Snooted flash to the left, green gelled flash to the right. Quicky setup and quicky post for a challenge.
And here a few from a product shoot--I had a half day off work yesterday but instead I worked in my home "studio" on some product shots for them. Unedited except for crop and saturation/contrast boost.
 This wasn't part of my assignment but I had to have a little fun with the tequila. I almost burnt the garage down!
 A collage of three images for website banner image.
 The most difficult bottle to light. With the black label and black background I had to increase my main flash power by over a stop to provide enough light. The angle of flash to subject and then back to camera really changes the lighting look as well.
I did find that to light wine bottles, a 4-6' strip softbox would be the best. I was using a 24" square softbox and rimlighting with a single flash behind and to the side. A third light lit up the background with a gradient from bottom to top. |
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06/19/2010 01:38:29 PM · #200 |
If anyone is interested, I'm selling a set of Elinchrom Skyports (1 transmitter + 2 receivers) at:
//cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=160446967671
These are awesome triggers that are highly reliable at half the cost of pocket wizards.
Message edited by author 2010-06-19 13:38:41. |
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