Strobist lighting thread 2010 - DPChallenge Forums

01/29/2010 10:43:06 AM · #79

If I fire my 580exII flash with a pc cord, can the 580exII still fire a 430ex, or does it need an ettl cord?

(Leo, the link to the other thread is included in the first post of this thread)

Nusbaum

Fujifilm X-T1

Canon EF 50mm f/1.4 USM

01/29/2010 11:00:24 AM · #80

Originally posted by hopper:

If I fire my 580exII flash with a pc cord, can the 580exII still fire a 430ex, or does it need an ettl cord?

To the best of my knowledge, the IR capabilities or the 580 EX I or II are only available when mounted on the camera or when using the short ETTL extension cable from canon. You could use optical triggers for your other flashes. Wein makes some relatively inexpensive triggers that work well. Note that some will ignore the ETTL preflash from a camera mounted flash and some will not. If you are triggering the main with a sync core, there should be no pre-flash to worry about. Look here for some more examples.

Message edited by author 2010-01-29 11:14:50.

01/29/2010 11:18:51 AM · #81

Originally posted by Nusbaum:

Message edited by author 2010-01-29 11:19:20.

Nusbaum

Fujifilm X-T1

Canon EF 50mm f/1.4 USM

01/29/2010 11:26:31 AM · #82

Wow, that's pretty cool. Canon's cord is very short, but I didn't realize somebody was making a longer solution. I should add one to my kit as a backup.

I had pretty good luck with my ST-E2 outdoors, but I got tired of twisting the flash around to the IR receiver within site of the camera. I broke down and purchased the new pocket wizard triggers haven't regretted it one bit. The ability to fall back to ETTL and control everything from the camera is a huge benefit in some some situations. But, they are pricey.

Originally posted by hopper:

Maybe this cord is a better idea then, until I can afford cybersyncs (i think i've decided not not buy any cheaper radio slaves, the reviews are too hit and miss). I have the ST-E2, so I'm fine inside 90% of the time ... just weighing my options for summertime outdoor shoots.

Originally posted by Nusbaum:
To the best of my knowledge, the IR capabilities or the 580 EX I or II are only available when mounted on the camera or when using the short ETTL extension cable from canon. You could use optical triggers for your other flashes. Wein makes some relatively inexpensive triggers that work well. Note that some will ignore the ETTL preflash from a camera mounted flash and some will not. If you are triggering the main with a sync core, there should be no pre-flash to worry about. Look here for some more examples.

02/01/2010 03:03:47 PM · #83

'alone� f7.1, 1/125s, ISO100, (85mm 1.8/5D)

One of my most recent strobist attempts. I saw a similar still life at photo.net and wanted to try lighting my shot in a similar way, particularly the backlighting on the stems.

This was set up with the pears on a small table: one flash behind the pears, to the right and above for backlighting(1/8 power), one flash bounced off of a 42� white reflector from the left side(1/4 power), and one flash with a honl 1/8� grid(1/4 power) to provide the spot of light on the background(my curtains).

I also used a fake house plant placed in front of my background light to provide some diffusion�I�m not sure it had much affect on the final shot. Processing was virtually nothing, cloned out two hot spots on the upright pears and part of a sticker that was showing on the reclining pear. Some USM and a slight vignette to BG.

What I learned� it is difficult ot light fruit/shiny objects. I wanted a soft light for the main subject, balanced by the harsh backlighting. It wasn�t until I brought the reflector into play that I was able to minimize the glare on the pear. (I know, I�m also a poet) :) The reflector was approx 3� from the grouping of fruit.

Thanks for everyone's input. Welcome to

bobonacus and

robm001

Keep the images and tips coming!

02/01/2010 03:11:36 PM · #84

I just received the Cheetah Qbox 24 last week. I used it this weekend(can't share yet) and was very impressed, especially ease of setup. It really worked great to control light spill onto parts of the photo that i didn't want lit.

Nikon AF-S NIKKOR 24-70mm f/2.8G ED

02/01/2010 03:51:11 PM · #85

Hope I'm not to late to join.

I have a couple of Nikon flashes for manual use and a couple of canon flashes for ettl. For triggering I have the Yongnuo triggers 2.5GHz (RF-602) and an St-e2. For modifying light I have 2 shoot through umbrellas, 2 EZ softboxes (one large than the other), and stands.

I don't get much of an opportunity to play with some of this as it's always hard to get a willing subject (which I'm sure is the case for a lot of us).

Here are some images that were in my portfolio that were taken strobist style:

alfresco

Nikon D700

02/02/2010 09:26:55 AM · #86

Originally posted by mpeters:

How many stops of light loss do you have with the 24?

I've hesitated pulling the trigger on one (well, two) until the beta testers (read: early adopters) came back with glowing praise :)

02/02/2010 02:33:01 PM · #87

Originally posted by alfresco:

Originally posted by mpeters:
I just received the Cheetah Qbox 24 last week. I used it this weekend(can't share yet) and was very impressed, especially ease of setup. It really worked great to control light spill onto parts of the photo that i didn't want lit.

How many stops of light loss do you have with the 24?

I've hesitated pulling the trigger on one (well, two) until the beta testers (read: early adopters) came back with glowing praise :)

I'm not sure--it was a seat of the pants backyard set up. I'll be giving it some more work soon and will do my best to figure out the light loss. I didn't mention their bracket system but it seemed quite strong and easy to use.

Message edited by author 2010-02-02 14:33:12.

Canon EF-S 17-85mm f/4-5.6 IS USM

02/02/2010 04:01:36 PM · #88

The Cheetah Box is they same as what was called an EZ softbox on strobist. I have a couple. One didn't have a baffle so I made one for it. I would assume you would loose the same amount of light that you would loose for any softbox with a baffle as it is the same material. Baffles can be removed in them if you need extra strength but this would then be similar to an umbrella but without light spread.

Message edited by author 2010-02-02 16:02:08.

dleach

Canon EOS-20D

02/02/2010 04:30:17 PM · #89

how do the baffles affect the light from the light box?

02/03/2010 02:12:06 AM · #90

Originally posted by RamblinR:

welcome to the party!

02/03/2010 03:04:20 AM · #91

Originally posted by dleach:

how do the baffles affect the light from the light box?

The baffles soften the light once again as you now have double the filtering. For a flash this is sometime helpful as it would reduce hot spots as the flash light source is so small and anything that helps spread it more would help reduce this happening IMO.

I have purchased some of the same material as the umbrellas (before I got my softboxes but still thinking of doing it anyway to have on hand) and i was going to make a baffle for the umbrellas. Simply cut a square of material that will fit on top of the spoked area of the umbrella. Use something on the edges to stop fraying (if you're not a sewer you could use a very fine line (I'm talking VERY FINE) of appropriate glue or maybe singe it with heat (like you would nylon rope - careful, don't burn it). Cut a slit in the cent to put up the umbrella shaft - treat this in the same manner as the outside edge to stop fraying. Then add just a small bit (probably less than 1/2 inch or 1cm just enough so it holds in place) of velco to the corners and sew the opposite side of the velcro to the spokes. You should be able to leave it attached to the umbrella all the time as it should colapse with it inside. Easy to remove when wanted. Anyway this was just a thought for those that may want to try it.

02/05/2010 01:51:34 AM · #92

BTW another good thing about the Yongnuo triggers 2.5GHz (RF-602) is that if you purchase the set for your camera you can use it as a remote for the camera. Plug the receiver into the side of the camera and use the trigger in your hand to activate (half press to focus full press to shoot).

Then, if you have purchased another set (trigger and receiver) you can put the second set on a different channel and set that one up with your off camera flash (trigger on camera and receiver on flash).

Now, you can set up the lights and shot and stand anywhere and activate the camera and take the shot. Very handy. If you aren't using it for a remote to fire the camera you now have a spare trigger and a second receiver for another light. I think this is a cheap and useful way to have two light triggers and a camera trigger.

Message edited by author 2010-02-07 05:43:29.

Canon EF 24-70mm f/2.8L USM

02/05/2010 09:40:29 AM · #93

Originally posted by Nusbaum:

The bigger challenge was working out an umbrella mount that would keep the umbrella shaft close to the flash head. I can send you a photo of what I came up with if you're interested. I'm not pushing the soft lighter, but am glad to help if you are interested.

David, let me see ... i think you forgot about me :)

also ... do you think the 60" softlighter would be a better option even though i'm using the 580exII, or would i need a strobe with more power?

Message edited by author 2010-02-05 09:42:03.

Nusbaum

Fujifilm X-T1

Canon EF 50mm f/1.4 USM

02/05/2010 12:03:28 PM · #94

Originally posted by hopper:

Originally posted by Nusbaum:
The bigger challenge was working out an umbrella mount that would keep the umbrella shaft close to the flash head. I can send you a photo of what I came up with if you're interested. I'm not pushing the soft lighter, but am glad to help if you are interested.

David, let me see ... i think you forgot about me :)

also ... do you think the 60" softlighter would be a better option even though i'm using the 580exII, or would i need a strobe with more power?

No I didn't forget. I got bogged down in some programming for a non-profit here in town and have hardly lifted my head. I'll go out to the sudio/garage today and get a shot of my adapter for for the softlighter and similar modifiers.

The diffusion sock on my softlighter won't fit around the 7" reflectors on my alien bees, so I'm only used it with a 580 or 530 ex. It doesn't use a bit more light than a regular umbrella, but I like shooting a little more open than most so power hasn't been an issue. I've never had to crank the 580ex up to 1.

Message edited by author 2010-02-05 12:04:06.

smurfguy

Canon EOS-5D Mark II

02/08/2010 11:15:55 AM · #95

Shoot-through umbrella high camera left SB-26 at 1/4-1/8 power, and a bare SB-26 (using built-in diffuser) behind the subject on the right at 1/32 or 1/64.

I really love how the light turned out on this one. If I could change one thing about the light, I may have added an oh-so-slight rimlight behind on the left. Obviously the voters weren't terribly impressed =) - feel free to leave a comment (constructively critical is happily accepted) and let me know what you strobists think. I'll comment in return.

Cheers!

Message edited by author 2010-02-08 11:17:24.