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01/21/2010 02:43:27 PM · #26 |
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01/21/2010 03:40:06 PM · #27 |
| I think I will play in this thread, if'n there's room in the sandbox :) |
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01/21/2010 06:03:47 PM · #28 |
| Love the strobist way of life. |
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01/22/2010 12:41:07 AM · #29 |
I built a beauty dish with a 20"(watever kind of food) bowl. I hope to find a bigger bowl. Vivitar 285hv strobe, triggered by alienbees cybersyncs. I modified the battery to use an external 6volt 4.5AH battery. It recycles much faster and just flashes forever.
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01/22/2010 01:02:59 AM · #30 |
| Very interested... got my Speedlite and some Cactus V4 triggers late last year and am very keen on making the most of them... |
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01/22/2010 06:46:48 AM · #31 |
do you have a shot of the inside of the bowl? are you diffusing the light, or just putting an omnibouce type of thing on the flash itself?
Looks like it works great
Originally posted by dmadden:
I built a beauty dish with a 20"(watever kind of food) bowl. I hope to find a bigger bowl. Vivitar 285hv strobe, triggered by alienbees cybersyncs. I modified the battery to use an external 6volt 4.5AH battery. It recycles much faster and just flashes forever.
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01/22/2010 08:22:58 AM · #32 |
Originally posted by dmadden:
I modified the battery to use an external 6volt 4.5AH battery. It recycles much faster and just flashes forever. |
I'd be interested to see how you have done these modifications, there's nothing more irritating than having to wait for AA's to recharge...
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01/22/2010 09:36:59 AM · #33 |
Originally posted by james_so:
Originally posted by dmadden:
I modified the battery to use an external 6volt 4.5AH battery. It recycles much faster and just flashes forever. |
I'd be interested to see how you have done these modifications, there's nothing more irritating than having to wait for AA's to recharge... |
This will almost surely reduce the life of your flashes due to thermal overload if you're not careful. Do it at your own risk.
The Strobist posted some info about new NiZn high-current. high-voltage batteries being used in an SB-900. It recycled fast but the thermal protection kicked in after ~15 full-power pops. |
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01/22/2010 10:29:47 AM · #34 |
Nice thread, watching it...I've been playing around with the techniques of "balancing the ambient", but I don't have many models to work with (like, my wife & son, lol), but I am scheduled to do a friend's wedding in August...so I'll keep my eye on this thread to see if anyone comes up with some kick-ass protips for me!
   
A new item I added to my Strobist arsenal is the Lastolite hotshoe ezybox. Not that I've put it to much use yet, but hopefully once the weather starts warming up and the days last a bit longer, I'll be able to get out and make some images. Love this video from the manufacturer.
Message edited by author 2010-01-22 10:32:15.
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01/22/2010 10:40:58 AM · #35 |
I look forward to discovering what would make a complete speedlight type lighting setup for Nikon. The Strobist blog seems so overly full of information that it has gone from being helpful to bogged down.
I'd like to simply pick up where a fellow Nikonian has finally settled on what works for them after havng been there and gone through some equipment/setups.
Can anybody here cut through the information overload on the Strobist and suggest what I should gather for a mobile setup for the purpose of pet photography. I'm thinking about using my SB600 and maybe getting another one. Would I be better off getting some more powerful strobes such as AlienBees (I know little about them)?
Then again, this video Originally posted by hopper:
This youtube video is a stunning example of what can be done with just a couple speedlights. If you had shown me just the images, I would have bet the farm he was lighting the scene with a monster softbox and monolights as strong as the sun with generators.
//www.youtube.com/watch?v=URYVtbDUrDI |
illustrates the amazing results of the speedlights.
Heeellllllp! |
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01/22/2010 10:51:37 AM · #36 |
I thought about that. This has been discussed in some strobist threads I've been to, because this is the most common mod for that model vivitar flash. I've never heard of this vivitar burning out due to that.
The voltage discussed here is per battery and is indeed higher. 1.65volts multiplied by four batteries. But on a full charge in actuality 1.85*4. Thats 7.4 volts. The batteries we use are the 6volt 4.5ah lead acid rechargable batteries. When I charge and meter it, the maximum each battery go is 6.33 volts. This flash is rated at 10seconds recycle at full power with fresh batteries and 4.8 with the optional hard to get adapter. When I modified it, I basically get what 4.something seconds at full power.
Having said that, there are mods like this for my other flashes. But I would never attempt with my expensive speed lights. The vivitars are based on some really old technology and cost $89. They are said to be much stronger than the new speedlights.
I have the same exact setup as this using the same materials with the exception of the power cord. I used PC cords using the female and the male type so I can plug them in and out at high speed. I have two of these vivitars both modified.
My friend has the same mod, but he uses 6volt 12ah batteries, he says its perfectly safe because it means the battery just stores more but delivers the same 6.2-6.3 from a full charge. His meter has the battery at the same 6.2-6.3 volts. And he's been using it for months.
I'll take some pictures and try to post by wkd. |
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01/22/2010 11:20:10 AM · #37 |
Nice balancing! Can you describe the lighting setups - are the two swimming shots bare flash on-camera? How about the others?
Originally posted by dmadden:
I thought about that... |
Yeah, those NiZn batteries do provide too much voltage, which is definitely part of the problem there. One of my 285's went out for no reason, so I consider them less solid than my Nikons.
I also generally use my flashes indoors at 1/4 power or lower. Once I venture out and to higher power levels, I'm sure I'll be looking for more enduring, faster power than AA's. Thanks for the detailed info! |
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01/22/2010 12:14:32 PM · #38 |
Sorry, I don't mean to hijack the thread and I'll join in posting photos and info when I get things set up and take some.
I have 2x Cobra Auto250 and 2x Cobra 210 flashes and an assortment of stands, pc cables, brollies, reflectors, and also a cheap ebay remote trigger, also of course my now rather old S7000. I'm all in favour of DIY kit and made my own tabletop light tent, unfortunately I never really get much use of it out to use due to lack of time, inclination and knowledge (and having to recharge all those AA's).
I'm also quite interested in the homemade beauty light and would be interested in having a better look at it ;)
Message edited by author 2010-01-22 12:15:13.
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01/22/2010 12:47:20 PM · #39 |
Originally posted by yakatme:
Can anybody here cut through the information overload on the Strobist and suggest what I should gather for a mobile setup for the purpose of pet photography. |
I've never done pet photography, but I do have a couple thoughts. First, animals have fur, not skin ... which means (i think) light modifiers aren't as important because the fur will not produce "hot spots" like human skin would ... so slightly harsher light is no big deal. If I had to guess, I'd say you only a single flash (off camera) and a reflector to bounce some light back onto the dark side.
Here's a forum dedicated to just pet photography. I'm sure it'll be very helpful:
//photography-on-the.net/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=134
//photography-on-the.net/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=120
Message edited by author 2010-01-22 12:52:52. |
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01/22/2010 12:55:57 PM · #40 |
//www.cheetahstand.com/servlet/the-12/Cheetah-Qbox-24-with/Detail
24x24 softbox with grid and bracket for use with flashes (speedlites) for $99
I'm thinking hard about it myself, thought i'd share |
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01/22/2010 12:57:50 PM · #41 |
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01/22/2010 01:06:08 PM · #42 |
Originally posted by david_c:
Originally posted by smurfguy:
Nice balancing! Can you describe the lighting setups - are the two swimming shots bare flash on-camera? How about the others? |
Thanks for the compliment! Actually, the two in the water were like so... |
Should've known it wasn't going to be that easy. =D I've been interested in a small softbox for my flashes - thanks for the samples and setup details! |
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01/22/2010 01:54:12 PM · #43 |
Originally posted by hopper:
Originally posted by yakatme:
Can anybody here cut through the information overload on the Strobist and suggest what I should gather for a mobile setup for the purpose of pet photography. |
I've never done pet photography, but I do have a couple thoughts. First, animals have fur, not skin ... which means (i think) light modifiers aren't as important because the fur will not produce "hot spots" like human skin would ... so slightly harsher light is no big deal. If I had to guess, I'd say you only a single flash (off camera) and a reflector to bounce some light back onto the dark side.
Here's a forum dedicated to just pet photography. I'm sure it'll be very helpful:
//photography-on-the.net/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=134
//photography-on-the.net/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=120 |
Don't use any diffusers. Use hard light. It'll give some nice highlights to the fur because if you use a diffuser their fur looks drab and one dimensional. |
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01/22/2010 02:11:24 PM · #44 |
| Also interested, got all the gear a year ago to get started and it's never been touched! Hopefully this will reboot my interest. |
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01/22/2010 02:24:17 PM · #45 |
Originally posted by hopper:
Originally posted by yakatme:
Can anybody here cut through the information overload on the Strobist and suggest what I should gather for a mobile setup for the purpose of pet photography. |
I've never done pet photography, but I do have a couple thoughts. First, animals have fur, not skin ... which means (i think) light modifiers aren't as important because the fur will not produce "hot spots" like human skin would ... so slightly harsher light is no big deal. If I had to guess, I'd say you only a single flash (off camera) and a reflector to bounce some light back onto the dark side.
Here's a forum dedicated to just pet photography. I'm sure it'll be very helpful:
//photography-on-the.net/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=134
//photography-on-the.net/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=120 |
It really depends upon the type of pet you are shooting and the lighting conditions. I did some shots for a breeder of dobermans and the fur had HORRENDOUS hotspots/specular highlights. Different coats behave very very differently. My irish setters will sometimes get bad hotspots in some lighting, but are usually alright. The "sheen" typical of show animal's coats is difficult to deal with and is exacerbated by darker hair colors. Short hair seems worse (in my experience) as well because more of the hair is on the same plane with the camera at a time (no wavy portions to change the angle). Part of the reason that I had such problems with the dobermans, however, was because the breeder was very interested in highlighting the quality of the blood line and therefore doing stacks- which meant I had to be perpendicular to the subject to emphasize the musculature.
So I guess one question would be what sort of "pet" photos you're aiming for market wise, and also if you are comfortable with/know anything about using CLS (to answer the question about CLS, you need to know what sort of conditions you'll be shooting under the most).
ETA: CLS can be useful for pets because it's very fast and doesn't involve running around and changing ratios. Pets are annoyingly unpredictable and I found being able to change lighting ratios on the fly from the camera and my shooting position was very beneficial.
Message edited by author 2010-01-22 14:26:50. |
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01/22/2010 04:00:21 PM · #46 |
Portraits with one flash.
Not knowing for sure where everyone is at in their use of strobist techniques I’d like to share one of my basic techniques for lighting portraits with one off camera flash. My normal portrait style is to use existing light, something that I really enjoy but one that limits the times and places to shoot. Being able to include a flash for fill gives me greater shooting windows and the ability to deal with light that is less than optimal. I’m still in the learning mode, but hopefully this will be helpful to those of you who are just starting out.
 
Here are two pictures where I utilized an off camera flash, triggered by a Cybersyncs. I use the standard CSRb and CST receivers and transmitter. There are no ETTL capabilities so my flash is always set to manual mode. It sounds scary but in a stationary type portrait shoot where your flash-to-subject distance is constant it’s pretty easy to set up.
The first thing I do is meter for the background environment. In both of these shots, I wanted to attempt to control the bright sunlit areas on the grass and in the background, and to make the people stand out from the colored leaves with looking like I flashed them with a high powered strobe.
On the larger family shot the leaves/background looked good at ISO 200, 1/125s, f4.5. But I wanted to darken it slightly so I increased my shutter speed to 1/200. I had determined that f4.5 gave me adequate DOF on this small family. My flash was mounted on a lightstand, camera right, about 20’ from the family. Since my aperture was going to remain at f4.5 I fired off a couple of test shots to make sure my flash power was set correctly. (I didn’t write down my flash power but I believe it was around ¼ power). If your subject looks too dark, simply move the flash closer to them, too bright, move the flash away! Chimping a couple of times is the safest bet. You could also choose to stop your lens down to decrease the effect of the flash, but it would also affect your background exposure, necessitating a slower shutter speed. I find it easier to move the flash back and forth and/or adjust the power setting. Once you have the setting correct, you can bring multiple people in and out of the portrait, as long as the flash to subject distance is constant. It makes it real easy to shoot and process a whole series of family portraits. This method really helps light the eyes, something that I think is important in people pictures.
In retrospect, I think a shoot through umbrella would have been good for these shots--a little softer than my flash with it's homemade diffuser(more on that later!)
The second shot's setting were adjusted slightly to f4.0, 1/160s. I'm not sure but the light may have been changing slightly so I opened up a bit.
Regarding lightstands—they are handy to have but I also like to involve family members and/or friends to hold the lights. It’s a nice icebreaker to involve someone else in this process. The downside is that they take a little more coaching than a stand!
 
For these shots of a senior I used a 42” white sided litedisc and used her friend to point the flash at the reflector to direct the light to my subject. The friend just kind of hung around me, about 2-3’ to my left or right and I adjusted the flash power as needed. It was a cloudy/rainy afternoon so I though the bit of fill given by this technique gave the portraits more pop! The light bouncing off the reflector was fairly soft unless I used the gold side as shown in the close shot here.>>>
I’ll continue to post write-ups on my shots as they come. I have a backlog of several to keep me busy for starters and I have others in the planning process. Hopefully this isn’t too elementary for all you pros but this is where I started, so it seems that it might be helpful to some. I feel like a beginner! :)
Message edited by author 2010-01-22 16:47:36. |
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01/22/2010 04:38:52 PM · #47 |
Sure count me in. I do a lot of stobist/studio shots on the fly. Most of the time I use my 3 sb800's and 2 ebay flashes. I just shot 2 sessions yesterday using 4 lights, so anything I can contribute I'd be happy to post.
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01/22/2010 04:43:10 PM · #48 |
Originally posted by Dirt_Diver:
Sure count me in. I do a lot of stobist/studio shots on the fly. Most of the time I use my 3 sb800's and 2 ebay flashes. I just shot 2 sessions yesterday using 4 lights, so anything I can contribute I'd be happy to post. |
Have you tried anything approaching this guys stuff? giardinophoto.com That is next on my list...
Message edited by author 2010-01-22 16:43:38. |
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01/22/2010 04:50:17 PM · #49 |
Originally posted by mpeters:
Originally posted by Dirt_Diver:
Sure count me in. I do a lot of stobist/studio shots on the fly. Most of the time I use my 3 sb800's and 2 ebay flashes. I just shot 2 sessions yesterday using 4 lights, so anything I can contribute I'd be happy to post. |
Have you tried anything approaching this guys stuff? giardinophoto.com That is next on my list... |
Yeah a little,
  
I have more I will just have to find them and upload them later. Getting ready to run out for a while.
And to do what he does you will need a lot of time, GREAT models and a lot of helping hands. Most of my shoots are kids still in school, out of class and it's only me with about 1 hour to set up get as many shots as I can then tear it all back down. I do need more time to play though.
Message edited by author 2010-01-22 16:52:41.
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01/22/2010 06:16:41 PM · #50 |
i see they are selling an alienbee speedring. Would this soft box also work with an AB?
Yakatme--- have you looked at McNally's book, The Hot Shoe Diaries? I believe he uses Nikon flash system. I hope to pick up a copy soon.
Message edited by author 2010-01-22 18:19:04. |
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